Tontus

That's really impressive, especially given the limitations of using only the pieces from the X-Wing. I'm looking forward to what else you can come up with when you increase you brick supply.

You can add Jack Purvis who played a Jawa, Gonk Droid, and Teebo (the Ewok, not the Tim). He was also an Ugnaught, but LEGO seems to have fast forwarded past those scenes when watching Empire. All in the same license, but still 3 characters made.

And a hinge on top. Looks like the cave opens up. Maybe to support the tower?

First of all, great review. I've got no complaints about that. I do however have some complaints about that price after seeing the shots next to the TIE and X-Wing. It sure does look to me like it should be in $50-$60 range. The ship itself does look nice though, but I'm not crazy about the minifigs. I don't know anything about the game, but all 3 figs look like those goofballs that go to conventions in their homemade Darth Vader costumes made out of cardboard. Is this really what Star Wars has become?

It's tough to come up with a price. I would sneak in a minifig here and there, or maybe add some plant pieces, etc. Also, the end of the ordering process would add to the cost when you need 40 cents worth of pieces and only 1 seller has the quantity you need with a $10 minimum. There is also the new vs used parts to consider. After getting a few pieces that looked like they were not only chewed, but swallowed and retrieved 2 days later, I no longer buy used so that will add to the price. Each build also had at least 1 rare/hard to find piece, but with some creativity you can avoid those if you want. If you really study the build, you can figure out which pieces don't matter what color they are or even some that can be omitted entirely to save a few bucks. All in all, I'd say it felt like I bought them for full price at TRU. They probably averaged about 10 cents a piece, or about $210. That also includes shipping by the way. The first one I built took 13 orders I think, the 2nd was 9 and the last was only 4, so your skill with BL affects the price.

I'm thinking the legs would come pretty close, but the head doesn't have that much range of motion to rest flat on the ground.

I agree, that is a thing of beauty. Please tell me you either have instructions or that you also built it in LDD.

I used the artifex kit plus tape. They don't fit the way I expected them to, but with a little tape to hold them in place they work good enough. R2-Q5 is a real challenge. From what I could tell, gold isn't going to work. Dark orange makes a good substitute, but you'll run into problems on the bars across the chest. My solution will be to use a dremel to make a piece that I need. I have a screenshot from my LDD version, but I'm having trouble uploading it to brickshelf right now. I do have screenshots of future R5-D4 and R4-I9. I'm pretty happy with my R4 design, but the R5 is off a bit and I can't quite figure out where. I think maybe the eyes are too close together. That is a hard shape to make especially considering the starting "foot print" you have to work with. Any suggestions on improving them would be greatly appreciated. Also, I'm trying out something different on the chest grill things on the R4. I'm not sure if it's better or not.

I bought the UCS R2-D2 to take advantage of the TC-14 promotion, and absolutely loved it. So much so that I had to start making my own based on that design. I made a few changes along the way like replacing the saw with a hand on R2-B1 and adding the containers to the back to hold extra appendages/tools that I hope to build. Too bad it didn't occur to me that a 3x3 disk won't fit in a 2x2x3 space. Oops. Anyway, I built these by designing them in LDD, then uploading the parts into wanted lists on Bricklink and then ordering those parts. To save money I'd make design changes on the fly while ordering such as replacing a 1x10 plate with a 1x4 and a 1x6. That helped but I didn't make any notes of those changes, so building turned into a bit of a pain at times. First up is R2-B1. The new hand helped out while building R2-R9. I also added lights and will eventually give the LED treatment to all of them. Finally we have R2-Q2. Surely I can't be the only one doing these, so please share if you've done any. I'm planning on eventually making a dozen of these, including R4's and R5's.

The worst set ever, or the worst ever produced? The worst ever would have to be the birth of the twins. It would be Padme on operating table with flick fire microfigs that pop out from under her. Lets hope LEGO loses the license long before that ever becomes a good idea. As for real sets, off the top of my head I'm going to say that first Ewok set way back when. Mostly because of those unfinished prototype looking teddy bears.

I already commented on this at Rebelscum, but I just wanted to make sure folks here at EB check the links. He didn't post as many pics in this thread and there a couple of nice surprises in the back. I can't say enough good about this MOC. It is the most creative, best executed idea I've seen.

You don't need head lights or tail lights when you're running moonshine in West Virginia. Just add the still or maybe even a meth lab and you're good to go.

Care to share what work? Maybe you are more patient (or smarter)than I am, but I couldn't figure out a decent way to go about it that would still look good. I eventually figured the payoff wasn't worth the effort and I gave up. The bright side is that Heartlake now has a serial killer that dismembers her victims and leaves body parts lying around.

That Wonder Woman is pretty good. I'd recommend printing decals for small details like the stars and some tape can help with shaky hand syndrome for straight lines. Another tip is using a hobby knife to gently scrape paint away to straighten lines. Those were techniques I used to use customizing action figures, but they should work just fine on mini dolls. Another tip - don't try cutting the crotch area to give them independant moving legs. I tried and it doesn't work like I thought it would. As for what to do next, do you have any interest in Disney or the Wizard of Oz? I would absolutely love to see those 2 themes in mini doll form.

I use the droid repair bay as Vader's medical bay. There's a clip on the wall for his saber, a hanger for his cape, and spaces to hold 2 spare helmets. Right now I have extra crispy Anakin on the bed and will replace it eventually with the FU "I just got my butt handed to me" Vader. He is being worked on by 2-1B and a custom made Chopper droid. I don't have FX-6 yet. I only have 8 Stormies so far, but I feel like I need to have at least 20 in there. I'm also low on DSTs with only 3, plus an Imperial officer with a DST helmet manning the com station.

9455 Fangpyre Mech Theme - Ninjago download Snake head not present or I just couldn't find it, so I subbed a different head. No decals. The gold blade piece would not connect, so it is floating and grouped for easy movement.

5766 Log Cabin [Version III] (Quick Build) Theme - Creator download 5766 Log Cabin [Version II] (Experienced Build) Theme - Creator download

9558 Ninja Training Theme - Ninjago download Missing decals Crown on spinner missing, replaced with snake crown

30105 Stephanie's Mailbox Theme - Friends download Minidoll replaced with minifig

2856134 Card Shrine Theme - Ninjago download Card not present in LDD, replaced with tiles

2507 Fire Temple Theme - Ninjago download Missing prints Posible collision error, I couldn't get the 3 swords to go between the curved brick thingies Dragon's legs won't rotate while attached to the body

4642 Fishing Boat Theme - City download Boat hull limited to 1 color, instead of 2 like in real Missing decals Useless string replaced to make flexible

Well that was quick. Thanks.

I built scaffolding to put the ball pieces where I thought they would need to be and then I would place the cup piece under them. If it didn't fit, I would keep on adjusting the scaffold until it did fit. That was before I knew how simple it was to use a "move tool" to make pieces float.

I saw that Steph figure todat at TRU. It was in a polybag with 5 pieces. The front of the bag was a computer rendered pic of the figure only, so I don't know what the 5th piece was. I didn't bother checking the price.