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hpil

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by hpil

  1. hpil
    Thanks. What rims are you using for the 2.2 tyres?
  2. hpil
    Can you share some photos of these? Currently working on something very similar, but the plant shaft end is catching inside the hub...
  3. hpil
    Some WIP progress teasers A complete redesign on the front end - initially due to a much improved pendular front axle unit, but then i found there was too much going on at the front (pendular turntable front support, steering gearing, drive to LAs for front linkage and drive to front pto) and not enough space to fit it all in, so i ended up with a slight tweak to the steering gearing layout and... quadlink suspended front axle! - which a) solved those problems and b) has a certain 'oh yes' appeal to it. Happy days! DSC_1152 DSC_1153 yellow 2L axle connector is the front linkage drive - with linear clutch, red 2l axle is the front pto drive, white 3l axle is the engine DSC_1154 now working on the back end, so i can fit the wheel / axle mounts and diff, and then extend the frame forwards to meet the battery support frame... DSC_1155 still a bit to do...
  4. hpil
    A steiger on those is going to be hy-ooge! How do the widths of the 150s and the 130s compare side by side?
  5. hpil
    Looking very good!
  6. hpil
    Ooff! I feel your pain!
  7. hpil
    Can you share some more photos of this - thinking it might have some ideas for the front linkage & pto for my MF...
  8. hpil
    Fortunately the 10 x 10 dishes are, a bit cheaper than the tyres, but I think @I_Igor is right, the bigger dishes will look spot on! I shall have to crack on with building to get my next parts list built up (no pun intended!)
  9. hpil
    Oooooh - I shall have to add some to my next order - thanks for the link!
  10. hpil
    Can you get bigger dishes?
  11. hpil
    you won't regret it ... DSC_1137 by hpil 102, on Flickr DSC_1138 by hpil 102, on Flickr (yes i know the rear wheel tread is pointing backwards ;-) )
  12. hpil
    You'll need the porsche wheels to go inside them now...
  13. hpil
    Good job @I_Igor, loving it!
  14. hpil
    Taking some inspiration from @Permo on this thread i think i have now solved my own problem using off-the-shelf lego - no need for 3d printing - and solved a few other issues such as removing wobble, getting a good gear down close to the wheel and a strong axle trumpet (axle housing to main chassis) equivalent. finished appearance (imagine the white 6x6 radar dish is actually LGB) DSC_1125 by hpil 102, on Flickr wheel cover removed DSC_1128 by hpil 102, on Flickr DSC_1126 by hpil 102, on Flickr turntable is a type 2 56 teeth with teeth on the inside. A z8 engages on the inside of the turntable, and theres a further 1:3 reduction in the gears in the frames, giving an overall 1:9 reduction quite close to the wheel DSC_1130 by hpil 102, on Flickr partly dissembled. 8L axle with stops attach the black part of the turntable to the frame, sandwiching some 3L bits to support the axles within the frames at the same time & making for easy attachment of wheels & switching out reduction gear sets if necessary - ie a z12:z20 pair or a z16:16 pair, depending on what is needed. The frames provide plenty of opportunity for attaching to the main chassis and also for attaching the rear linkage. :-)
  15. hpil
    I'm looking at using a small turntable - search/look for my 1:12 tractor custom wheels thread
  16. hpil
    yes - the xerion tyres would be 1:15.4 or 1:15.8 depending on the specific front tyre sizes, and the rears with the 150s would be 1:14.2 - 1:14.5, so 1:15 might be a good compromise. For a 3.1m real life wheelbase that would give you a 26 stud wheelbase - 2 studs shorter than my 6716s
  17. hpil
    mmmm - by my reckoning UK tyres on this are 2.13 - 2.17m high, so the 150 tyres would give a scale of around 1:14 and *could* sit nicely with some 130's on the front. Now, where would you get 4x 130mm ag tyres...? How wide are your 130's?
  18. hpil
    That looks awesome!
  19. hpil
    That is looking fantastic @I_Igor! The steering angle with the porsche arms and cv joints looks really good - what is the maximum angle you can comfortably get before the cvs start to bind or stiffen up too much?
  20. hpil
    @trekman - I've played around with the top link a little, and it seems it can actually take a reasonable load before pulling apart. DSC_1123 by hpil 102, on Flickr The reciprocating power harrow MOC (which i made initially to go on the rear of the 8284 tractor/dune buggy - again, apologies for the colour vomit but my collection was a bit more limited when it was made) weighs about 150g and the battery box with batteries about 190g, and it has stood up fine to that. Adding a second battery box (with batteries) pulls the top link apart - so its limit (without going into leverage etc) is somewhere between 340g and 530g. An alternative top link with two 6L thin lift arms would work, but wouldn't be as aesthetically pleasing to my mind. Drive via a central diff between front and rear was always going to be the plan, although i might play around with some ratio calcs and see if a reasonable set of gearing can be used in lieu as per @TeamThrifty's post. Having said that, when turning all wheels will follow different tracks so a central diff may still be the best bet. I'll also need to think about gearing to get a suitable forward speed with the big wheels. Torsion twisting the drive axles is also going to be an issue and i've a few ideas to address that - ideally i would have used mini-turntables to mount the rear wheels, since these have a bit less wobble than the portal hubs, and used a z8 pinion to take drive onto the turntable sprocket. However, the centres don't quite line up and so i think that option is out. DSC_1116 by hpil 102, on Flickr Overcoming issues like this is all part of the fun and challenge!
  21. hpil
    @I_Igor when are we going to get see your Fastrac? I had one as my wedding car...?
  22. hpil
    @TeamThrifty - they are indeed 150mm. Link to where I got them from (modelsport - Otley, West Yorkshire) in the first post on this thread.
  23. hpil
    @TeamThrifty - will put up a separate thread for my wip, but here's a taster. Apologies for the colour mix - up till last week my colour collection was pretty limited and so i was working with whatever i had to hand to get things started, with an idea to then rebuild once i had more DBG. Everything backwards from the front wheels is just thrown on so i could attach the rear wheels and see how it all looked - the wheelbase (2670mm in real life) should be about 28 studs @1:12, so the mock up is about 2 studs too short. The RC4WD tyres are quite soft and i was worried about bulging, hence the trial with a 1.5kg bag of flour. The front linkage i'm happy with, but the front axle is getting a complete redesign, using small turntables for the pendular axle mount. The current front wheel mounts are inspired (copied!) from your Axion, but the redesign will use either triangular flat plates or possibly small turntables. The flour test... DSC_1057 by hpil 102, on Flickr DSC_1110 by hpil 102, on Flickr DSC_1120 by hpil 102, on Flickr DSC_1112 by hpil 102, on Flickr
  24. hpil
    Loving that Fastrac! I think that mf brochure is the Australian version - i'm working off the UK which is definitely 480/70 r28 and 580/70 r38. Having said that, all models in the line up have the same wheelbase and width (c/c across the front axle), so I guess it boils down to fit the tyre combination I have, what tyre combination does that most closely match on the real tractor, and therfore what is the resulting scale? @TeamThrifty the 2.2" mudblaster tyres are 150mm OD. I can put some photos up later today (and I'll double check my scale calcs ??)
  25. hpil
    Full RC - XL for drive, M for steer. L or M for rear linkage with changeover catch to switch to front loader lift and another changeover to connect front linkage lift to work with the rear linkage. M or L for rear pto, with changeover catch to switch to front loader tip / crowd and another changeover to connect front pto to the rear. If I have space, a pneumatic pump on another changeover connected also to the pto motor, and an air tank. It's going to be a long project!
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