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SquirrelArmy

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by SquirrelArmy

  1. The new Marvel Rising series & Film are animated and debuting on the Disney Channel. Ghost Spider is part of this series. It's a female version of Spiderman nothing to do with Ghost Rider ;)
  2. Are LEGO just going to stick to Movie characters & sets? I'm wondering if the Marvel TV series are popular enough to warrant sets/minifigs producing. I know they made an official Iron Fist minifig but I don't see anything official for Daredevil, Luke Cage, Jessica Jones etc. There's also the new wave of TV characters coming soon in Marvel Rising. Ghost Spider, Quake, Ms Marvel & of course Squirrel Girl will be making an appearance (no prizes for guessing where my interest lies) Hopefully there's enough of a demand for them.
  3. The tiling begins. Just had the first 500 delivered.
  4. It's the new stud,io version 2 Beta. I'm very impressed with it myself. Having a fairly beasty PC helps with the rendering too. https://studio.bricklink.com/v2/build/beta.page
  5. I've been playing around with the idea of adding a pair of TIE fighters behind Vaders ship. The standard 75211 TIE's wouldn't fit. They were far too wide, I've reduced the width of them but still not sure on the proportions. They are still too big for the shelf, I think I may have to stay with my original plan of just the two ships. The TIE advanced in this image is the one I bought but I'm definitely preferring @manglegrat's TIE. It fits better with the scale of the X-Wing and the trench.
  6. A pair of the new versions would fit nicely in my MOC. You say you've incorporated methods from 75101 and 75211, which of the two sets would you recommend starting with? There's a lot of TIE specific elements such as the cockpit cover and pilot as well as other printed pieces that I'd need to purchase so it does make sense to start with an existing set and mod it to match your design
  7. Great tip for skewing the X-Wing. I've just tried it with the bricks I have to hand. I'll be using round trans clear bricks for the support in the build. The centre of gravity has definitely shifted so I'll probably add an axle to help with the vertical strength.
  8. Where's the facepalm button? I downloaded your lxf when I was playing around with the first design of my trench run and have obviously added your TIE instead of the one from 75150 which I also downloaded, both files on my system have TIE Advanced in the name. I'll change the first post to suit. With your modded version of the TIE, did you build it from scratch or was it based on the 75150 set?
  9. I think what it comes down to is that you can't copyright the way you assemble a selection of bricks. Artwork, Logos, likenesses of characters can be licensed though which is what the lawsuit has been focused on. Xingbao who are part of the same company as Lepin concentrates on it's own designs with a heavy focus on military sets which LEGO choose not to produce for ethical reasons. Their military models are very well detailed. You could recreate those sets in LEGO if you wanted a military display. Would you then be guilty of stealing a design? If you then use bricklink to source the bricks you're also using a 3rd party supply without any money going to TLG. Xingbao also have their own modular building series with some sets aimed at a more adult market. It's great to have more choice of buildings when creating a city Other companies do try and sell Lepin and other clone brands in the European market, sites such as LegoEngland are selling cloned sets as LEGO, even using LEGO's own promotional material to sell replica bricks. When a company is trying to sell an inferior product using the LEGO brand is where TLG have a stronger case. I'm not linking to the LegoEngland website as it's full of malware. As consumers we should have a choice of where we want to buy our bricks. The patent on the locking brick system has expired, anyone with access to injection moulding machines can make bricks compatible with LEGO. 3D Printing technology isn't as quite as accurate yet but one day it will be and you'll probably see an increase of printed parts coming to the market in the future. As a consumer I want to know what bricks I'm buying. As long as its clear what the brand of bricks is. I can make my own choice. As LEGO continue to raise their price per brick especially for licensed sets more people will look to source bricks elsewhere. Even the online Pick a Brick shop is incredibly overpriced for what you get. For example I've recently made a large bricklink order of over 2500 pieces. This cost just under £100. The equivalent order direct from LEGO would have cost over £300 and they don't even stock the full range of what I needed. They charge 6p just for a single round stud. There's no licensing, no box art, no design work yet they think that's an acceptable price for their smallest single brick? This is where things have to change in the future.
  10. How many studs wide is the TIE? I'm looking at potentially adding two TIE's to an MOC I'm building and the width of each one is fairly critical.
  11. All I've done is take the lxf from here and add it to my MOC. It should be the standard set. I've been looking at the instructions of 75211, it looks like it could be possible to reduce the length of each wing arm by a stud. I've got 42 studs of space before it starts to overhang the shelf so it will be tight but certainly possible. I'll be trying to hide the grid but keep it so you can tell that it was based on a grid if that makes sense. This image inspired the grid design I started with. I do currently have a full stud width between each tile. I could reduce it down to 0.5 studs between each tile by using a mix of 2x2 and 1x2 jumper plates.
  12. The TIE is actually from the Rebels TIE Advanced vs A-Wing Set 75150. I may mod it in the future but it's already a great set. @JarJarBonks The model in the images is actually from manglerat. I had both models saved on my system as TIE Advanced. Any recommendations for the right TIE set to use? Ideally each TIE would have to be under 20 studs wide to fit.
  13. Hey Everyone I recently bought the new X-Wing 75218 and it was looking a little lonely sat on my shelf. I then bought the 75150 Tie Advanced & A-Wing set to keep it company which has now inspired me to build a dedicated display for the ships. The perfect setting for the X-wing & Tie is of course the Death Star Trench run but I don't really have the space to display a full diorama at minifig scale similar to this epic Trench Run My best option was to design a snapshot of the scene based around the shelving unit I already own. The shelving system I have is Ikea's Kallax system. I've previously modified the shelving system to fit a Super Star destroyer by removing the dividers and so have a single open shelf at the top. This is where I've decided to place my new MOC The shelf size is about 48x175 studs, unfortunately the the length doesn't fit quite standard baseplate sizes so my only choice has been to cut down one to suit the internal size. Luckily I managed to source a damaged baseplate on bricklink so I'm not destroying an intact plate. I've already ordered the parts to make up the structure of the base and side walll of the trench, it's made up of 6x6 plates sat on jumper plates for the base and sat on 1/2 technic pins on the wall. On top of each 6x6 plate I'll be adding lots of greebling and mini builds to add texture to the trench. There's about 120 squares to fill so I'm looking for inspiration for those. I'm very open to suggestions for those. The turbo laser design I found on YouTube, I'm still not sure on the final position. I think it may be too close to the exhaust port. I've tried to copy the port from A New Hope as close as I can and keep it to scale so it's roughly 2 metres. I'm very impressed with studio 2.0 The detail on the rendering is fantastic even on the lower resolution settings. The bulk of the bricks should be arriving within a week so I'll update the progress of the build once they arrive and I start building. At this stage the layout is very flexible so open to any suggestions to improve the layout.
  14. Those panels look great but 38 euros plus postage is fairly expensive for a handfull of bricks. I wouldnt mind some more stickers for internal corridors. Does anyone know if anywhere sells those? Bricklink prices are crazy for them.
  15. I love the engineering that’s gone into this. How practical is using it though once the panels are on? What kind of stand do you have in mind to display it on? Will be very interesting to see what you come up with.
  16. It’s actually easier to use Stud.io and export from there directly to Bricklink. Dont worry though your time in LDD isn’t wasted. You can open LDD files in Stud.io
  17. I’ve just done a similar engine mod. I’ve used 1x2x2 trans light blue bricks with 1x4 grey hinge plates connecting them. I’ve also retained the grey lattice grill to hold it all together. Where the tubes fit into a technic brick on either end of the engine I’ve removed the lower two pins. I’ve then placed a 1x1 technic brick on to the remaining pin and spun it round so the stud is on top. I’ve then clipped the trans light brick arc to that with 1x2 plates. That works for either end, in the middle I just used 1x4 plates and some 1x2 plates to secure the arc to the central support. It’s only connected via the top of the arc but it seems plenty strong enough once the grill is placed in front of it. I don’t have any pics but I can get some later this evening.
  18. Won’t a factor in the strength of the frame being there to limit deformation over time. You’ve significantly reduced the load bearing capacity of the frame, it may seem to hold the shape now but there’s no way of knowing how it will look in months to come. On the frame that you still have in place have you added additional pins where possible? It’s these components that will be taking the stress.
  19. Even though I’ve built it I’ve never actually seen it from underneath. I can see you removed the legs for flight mode but I can see a lot of additional panels too.
  20. I’ve gone for Docking Bay 94 as my build. It’s a tough choice about how to display the ship. Other options from the original trilogy are of course Cloud City and inside the space worm. I don’t think the space worm has ever been done in Lego and this set having the reverse head prints and Mynock makes it a definite possibility but probably not that exciting. I would have gone for Cloud City as my build but just don’t have the space to do it justice.
  21. Still very much a work in process, I have lots to do before its anywhere near completion but as the subject is on lighting the Falcon I thought I’d post my plans. I’m using some old usb powered xmas lights and have them situated inside the Falcon and will be drilling into the base board so I can use them as landing lights in a ring. I do think the cockpit light is a bit bright still so I may have to reposition that one.
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