monai
Eurobricks Citizen-
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Everything posted by monai
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Many compliments above all for the bridge. I've a question about your photostream, I see a wonderful looking portion of tracks self made with an interesting option to fix the curved rails, does it function? I mean what kind of flat bottom rails have exactly 8mm of base? best regards Sergio
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I know what is called train's physics, but let me say that LEGO trains, since the beginning, are by far not following the most elementary physics of motion on rails.. their first wheel had teeth, the first motor ones were even inverse conic, not to mention the disproportionate flanges, what I wondered was if this independence could help in tight curves, since you say it isn't this means a stronger SHAME on Lego!.. from an AFOL point of view, children could think differently and THEY are the first target for them..:-) S.
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"only the best is enough" but for who? I think for their wallets.. It is obvious that making these wheels is cheaper for LEGO, period. Said that there is another question that is intriguing, since the geometry of Lego train wheels have always been far distant from a real railway one, may this independence in rotation help in the Lego tight curves? is it possible to make the same test but in a curve?
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I understand your thought, since a completely realistic layout is not your final goal, the shiny look is icing on the cake. But the sense of being used is somehow charming me, is also for this (and wallet) reason that I prefer used bricks. As regard the photos of the early 20th century, let me say that probably the lokos were kept clean for the photographer (that time it wasn't so common take pictures), in that dusty countryside it should take more time to wash the engines than to drive them..
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- buwizz
- brickstuff
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First of all many thanks for thinking I was able to help you, but a thousand of thanks for this show of extreme LEGO ability in modelling such a masterpiece. With the risk of repeating myself you put the level of LEGO train (and not only) modelling to such an high level that perhaps could be even discouraging for us, simply mortals.. :-) anyway, after the deserved compliments, I would pick you for even climb over your summit: after sound, smoke and fire lighting, "weathering", the final goal for a train model layout, is it a viable practice for LEGO? your magnificent loko is just as coming out from the factory, and I can assure you that in the Atacama region it would stands clean for no more than half an hour. I wish you a wonderful (and cooler) holiday waiting for another great train adventure sincerely Sergio
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- buwizz
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Very well done my friend, I know this was a sort of killtime for you :-) but what a diversion! really amazing, the interior details are awesome and the smart idea for the tires really intriguing. I've been in those regions and I know the dust and bumpy roads make the hubcups really an optional. We are waiting for the Kytson-Meyer but hurry-up because another heat-wave is coming.. :-)) Sergio
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Another AFOL going large scale... (Prussian T3 0-6-0T)
monai replied to Sven J's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Really awsome, I've registered on "Doctor Brick" and saw the exquisite details. Obviously the large scale (G scale) helps a lot, I presume the working brake is not so easy to implement in a standard L-scale, anyway it is a very nice work. Perhaps the liftarm as brakes are not so realistic but for the moment I find no alternatives. p.s.: Hi Sven, what about the Kytson-Meyer?- 9 replies
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- scale model
- moc
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wow, fantastic details, very nice ensemble, the interior is very well designed. Now you need some real steel to work with.. Sergio and Eros
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If you observe better the flag about this warning is empty, the selected warning is that for 3 years old, anyway I agree about railway model world but this was always true, it's an expensive hobby if you do it with an high degree of realism, the marklin aren't exactly "toy" trains.
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I totally agree, after watching the video I realized the wheels are really a "toy", ok they are all toys, but in this case they are not supposed to be "model" class at all, a pity. The above discussion reveals how "hungry" are afols for a decent train wheel set, really 3d printing is not yet at the right level and it's also more expensive, I'm old enough to remember when LEGO was selling small boxes of bricks or wheels not necessarily included in sets, but business is business..
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I've calculated a width of 6 studs, that is 48mm or roughly the XXL size of the 3d printed wheels already available. The quality should be better since they are molded and, above all, the flanges are far smaller and should negotiate better the curves but perhaps not the lego switches.
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From a longtime I was wondering if it could be possible and you have demonstrated it is! now some question and one purpose: - the flanged wheels, are they working well on these rails? I noted they are old O-gauge and not today standards (the totally absurd Lego flanges are not working well on code 180-200 modern rails) - since the O tracks gives you power with the third track, why not using it to move a Lego motor? (an avatar of the 9volt era?) many compliments and best wishes for Christmas and new year Sergio
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If you want to do scale model, you have to find the exact scale ratio, that is: the real gauge divided by the Lego one. For instance if you consider a 1000m real gauge and you have the standard Lego gauge (38mm) you get a scale 1:26. Obviously this change if you have a narrower Lego gauge. When you have the scale you can find the true stud measure by dividing the width of the real locomotive by 26x8=208 (8mm is the space between two studs). So for a 2.7metre width you get 13 (!) studs =103mm. This for scale modeling, If you look for minifig scale modeling this is vastly debated because the lego minifig are not scaled on the human body (no knees!) so everybody has is own opinion. Finally the answer is when the result is good to your eye, that is the most important thing :-) Sergio
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many compliments, the loko looks wonderfull and the tender is ice on the cake sincerely "in bocca al lupo", but for the cars (very nicely detailed indeed) I must agree with Valkoinen, their width looks unnatural, it is common in Lego but nevertheless is somehow disturbing, at least in videos..are you sure that a 8studs width could be unmanageable? again many compliments Sergio p.s. we in Triest are using to say that "Austria (KkStB) was an ordered country"
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well the LEGO gauge (38mm) is scaled to the standard one (1435mm) as 1:38. Ok you choose to model at 1:48 and the result is spectacular, but generally for railway model the scale is computed on the gauge so the discrepancy. As regard the wheels, the 3D printing technique (filament extrusion) is inherently less robust on the deposition planes, have you noticed any defect on this regard? Are they more prone to ruin themselves? again many compliments Sergio
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Really amazing MOC also if the scale is not the LEGO right one (1:38), the rendering is absolutely magnificent. The smoking is ice on the cake, I'm curious too about its engineering. Just one observation, it looks as the shcupp's brick wheels are not really black, what about painting them? many compliments Sergio
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Is it possible use some self-built parts (hand made rods for instance)?
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- brick model railroader
- octrainber
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MOC: Just a humble 0-8-0T... (Flensburger Kreisbahn No. 1 in 1:22.5 scale)
monai replied to Sven J's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Dear Sven you literally make us turn our heads (please take a straight track next time ), wonderful video! I love the atmosphere, we wait for the wagons.. grussen Sergio- 54 replies
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- narrow gauge
- brickstuff
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Very nice model and very interesting cam mechanism, compliments to you for having implemented it. As regard that east european country nemo57 refers to I have three iconic models for you : http://www.wikiwand.com/de/S%C5%BDD-Baureihe_%D0%9F38 http://loco.skyrocket.de/data/szd_aa20.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garratt#/media/File:Ya-01.jpg good luck Sergio
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MOC: Just a humble 0-8-0T... (Flensburger Kreisbahn No. 1 in 1:22.5 scale)
monai replied to Sven J's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Dear Sven using a famous Lego slogan "EVERYTHING (IN YOUR MODEL) IS AWESOME", really you are putting the level of lego modeling to another class. It is time to speak over the Lego horizon (also because you have cross the border of lego purism), you are definitely the AsterHobbies, Fulgurex, Lemaco, Micro-metakit of brick trains. Above your skill is, as I know well, your railway culture that allows you to explore the forgotten railways and bring to our attention this small gems. One question: can you explain us how have you coupled the slidable axle with the rod (I need it for the project you know :-))? with my best compliments Sergio- 54 replies
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- narrow gauge
- brickstuff
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mmh, if rails had split it happened because they have not curved them BEFORE assembling with sleepers, you know there are plenty of bending devices in the model railway community, perhaps the right way to proceed is bending to the desired radius and then using sleepers which will be clutched independently each other (in this way you don't even need different designs for different radii but just one will be sufficient for every custom curve)
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mmh, not in the very near future, and above all at what price level? the 3D printing additive technique is mechanically inferior, and the CLIP or laser ones are really expensive up to now. In the meantime no one has ever tried to use the metal normal railway modelling wheels and adapt them to LEGO? Not only the materials but above all the geometry of the lego train wheels are frustrating, the flanges are too large, sometimes the wheels are running on them. Another great project of BBB were the ties for metal vignoble tracks: why not to continue it? Sergio and Eros
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I voted for size: "other" and particularly for up to 60mm radius steam locomotive wheel (=> 2300mm in L scale) with 43mm and 50mm steps (ok 3 new molds are expensive but at least the 43) As for colors I would appreciate a "metallic" one, or to use some hard plastic which could be easily painted (dear jkj1909 I presume it isn't so easy to mold a bi-color object). Sergio and Eros
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Unfortunately your model is the first one, so it is glued and if you open it you should glue it again or using some duck tape. It is very strange that the wheel spin inside, because there are no friction cylinders in this model, the wheels have a pin with cam that engage inside directly on the moving axle; are you using the original wheels? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=wheel1b#T=C&C=5 because it doesn't worlk with the classical 4,5 ones