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rockpig

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Everything posted by rockpig

  1. rockpig
    Brickvault are updating the instructions. Does that mean I have to repurchase the instructions?
  2. rockpig
    Thanks cavegod. I would also need to purchase a remote control unit. Correct? Thanks, RockPig
  3. rockpig
    Hi Zmarkella, Thanks for the quick reply and the part numbers. Very helpful. I do see on the instructions where the XL motors go. But where are the receivers and the battery boxes installed in the build? I'm assuming they go behind the cargo bay, but I'm not 100% sure. Thanks, RockPig
  4. rockpig
    Hi All, I purchased the plans for this beauty a while ago. I intend to begin purchasing the parts by the end of this year. However, I have no experience with Lego power functions. The instructions show the placement of the 6 XL motors and 2 Linear Actuators. These parts are on the Rebrickable parts list. On page 1 of this thread CaveGod provided this list of Power Function elements needed for the build. 6 XL motors (On parts list) 1 SM motor 3 x receivers 10 led light cables 3 short extentions 6 long extentions 3 battery boxes Can anyone please tell me the part numbers to order these items via Bricklink? Where do the receivers and the battery boxes go? Is a remote control unit required? (Part number ?) How is everything connected? Can someone provide a link to a video or website where I may learn how to properly use power functions? Sorry for my ignorance in this matter. Any response would be appreciated. Thanks, RockPig
  5. rockpig
    Here you go: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1aJHYGahOFLKuk1ZK5wH8LBCuo6UM2wi-/view?usp=sharing Ignore the parts with 0 quantity. Have fun!
  6. rockpig
    Hi Eric L, The stand does not have a manual. You must use the Lego Digital Designer file that @churcholo provided to make it. Good Luck. Rockpig
  7. rockpig
    Here you go. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-10219/Lucioswitch81/effermans-vertical-stand-for-millennium-falcon-75192/#comments
  8. rockpig
    Someone earlier in this thread solved the problem by using 1/2 pins instead of the 2L pins. This seems to be the easiest solution. I took the wall apart and built it in place. The toughest part was the piece with the top pin. You will have to repeat this solution on page 82.
  9. rockpig
    You are welcome, Sir. I can't say this enough. Churcholo's stand is the only reason I decided to make this build. Build only as much as you have to with the stands to get the two halves together. Then go back and fill in the details. You'll find it less frustrating. Yes, the used parts were received in great condition. At the time I purchased them, they were just not available new or very expensive in new condition. Feel free to ask any questions about the spreadsheet. Enjoy the build. rockpig
  10. rockpig
    Hi All, Use the link below. I cobbled this together from my parts purchase spreadsheet, my notes on this thread and my actual build. It is not from a page by page reconciliation, so it should be 99.9% correct. If anyone finds any error, please let me know and I will incorporate the fix. It includes the parts for the @churcholo stand and removes only the Trans-Clear parts for the original stand. You will have the plates that make up the bottom of the original stand as extra. Always good to have some extra parts. Have fun! Found an error. Link updated 7/29/19. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1vD711GEs95ZKdHiMHnb74yMwCBwTrVj4/view?usp=sharing BTW - The half barrel (4424) from this link will require some drilling. I used a drill bit that fit comfortably into a pin connector. It worked perfectly.
  11. rockpig
    Hi, I just finished this last weekend and I can provide you a parts list with 99% of the changes and @churcholo's stand. It will take me a little time to do so. I can post a link for you in a few days. BTW - @churcholo's stand is the way to go. I can't imagine how anyone had the ability and patience to build this without it. I tip my hat to them. rockpig
  12. rockpig
    Can anyone direct me to a Bricklink part list for the Eiffleman Crawler-Transporter, please? Thanks
  13. rockpig
    Great effort and work. Beautiful design. Any chance of ever adding the crawler?
  14. rockpig
    Has anyone built this yet? Is there a parts list available?
  15. rockpig
    Amazing!. The Dream room exists!
  16. rockpig
    Yes that would be a cool thing to see. You could do the same with Lego UCS sets. Death Star 10143 has a SSD, SSD 10221 has a Star Destroyer, Star Destroyer 10030 has a Blockade Runner and then Rebel Blockade Runner 10019. That would also be a nice display.
  17. rockpig
    I purchased everything I could as new. I need the parts again. I don't have any display room, so this will be photographed, left on the table for a few weeks and then disassembled. I will be using about 3500+ pieces from this MOC to build MOCs 15881, 23556, 8143 and 23104. Doing the same thing, building, photographing, leaving it on the table for a while, disassemble and reusing the parts. The upside - I get to build them all and have plenty of parts for the next new big Star Wars MOC. The downside - I don't get to look at all of them together. Another upside. Instead of having to buy 48,000 + pieces to build all 5 MOCS. I can make them all by purchasing about 29,000+ parts. That cuts the cost around 40%.
  18. rockpig
    I just finished building this MOC yesterday. Part 4274 is used to hold the UCS plaque. Blue would be ok as they are not visible. The stand should work correctly with friction ridges or without. I prefer with friction. Here are my notes on installing the stand. I hope they are clear enough to follow. Front stand Attach front stands (1 x 15 liftarms) as per pages 528 – 529 and 535 – 536. (Note: the (4) 1 x 15 Black Liftarms from stand replace the (4) DBG 1 x 9 liftarms from these pages. 9 holes are for model, 6 holes belong to the stand.) Be mindful of pin placements in these steps. Back stand. Remove middle (4) hinge plates attached from page 6. Remove liftarm assemblies from pages 13 – 15 including pins. Remove the 4 top liftarms from stand and replace the (2) 1 x 11 liftarms installed on pages 16 with the 4 black liftarms from stand. Use 3L pins with Bushstop to attach to Technic, Brick 4 x 6 Open Center. Use 2L pins to attach to Vertical liftarms from page 11 & 12. Hope this helps. This build is as satisfying as it is occasionally frustrating. Good Luck, Rockpig
  19. rockpig
    You'll find your answer on page 6 of this thread.
  20. rockpig
    I should add, churcholo designed an outstanding stand (no pun intended). Being attached to the internal structure makes it very secure and stable. I'm up to around page 450 (not counting the steps I jumped ahead that were required to get the front stand on). I have picked it up and turned it around at least a dozen times without anything falling off. So far, the only times parts have fallen off is due to my clumsiness.
  21. rockpig
    Yes and yes. The 2 halves connected in about 30 seconds. I left assembly from pages 237 - 250 unattached. I removed the 2 x 16 plate from page 236, pinned the bottom technic bricks together, replaced the 2 x 16 plate, then attached the page 237 - 250 technic assembly to the pins and pressed it down. Piece of cake! Stands held everything perfectly and nothing fell off. You can pick it up from both bases and move it around with ease to work on it. The real challenge comes after. My advice is to look ahead in the instructions and determine how many sub assemblies you can do off of the model. Quite a few things are held on by one or two studs. A real challenge, but very satisfying to figure it out and get it done. Enjoy! rockpig
  22. rockpig
    BTW - The top 4 liftarms inserted into the 4 x 6 Technic Brick with open center should be the ones you used to build the stand or at least the same length as those.
  23. rockpig
    I don't know if the bottom pins will be in the way at a later stage so I used 2L pins for the bottom connections. The upper connection looks great! Upon closer inspection of your photos, you're a bit high on the stands. The bottom Technic plate with holes should be resting on the 2 slopes below. Remove the tile from the top of the slopes. Make sure that the pin connections for all the stand parts are per the LDD file.
  24. rockpig
    Another tip for the front stand. Attach the 1 x 15 liftarms to the stand with 8 3L pins with Bushstops. This will allow you to add the base after you've attached the liftarms to the model and it will also allow you to remove the base if it is necessary to slide the pods up through them. I'm haven't reached the point of the pod assembly yet, but I got the idea from advice I received from Brickandkall on page 24 of this thread. Good Luck, rockpig
  25. rockpig
    To scheyjosh, I completed this step about a week ago. Per the photos posted by midlife-crisis above. Replace the 2 gray liftarm assemblies (1 x 11 and 1 x 3) with the 4 1 x9 black liftarms from the stand. You will have to remove them from the stand first. I used 8 3L technic pins with bush stop to connect them to the Technic, Bricks 4 x 6 Open Center that the long gray liftarms are removed from. After that, you can reattach the bottom portion of the stand. You can also add pins to the technic bricks where the 1 x 3 liftarms were attached. For the front stand replace the 1 x 9 liftarms from pages 528 - 529 and 535 - 536 with the 1 x 15 liftarms from the front stand. Basically 9 holes from the 1 x 15 liftarms replace those 1 x 9's and 6 holes are for the stand. I only built was necessary for each section (front and back) to get the stands attached. It was much easier to attach these two halves while they are upright and on very stable stands with minimal greebling. Hope this helps.
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