Davidz90

Wow, really cool! Didn't know that custom, longer connecting rods can be built for the standard piston pieces. Also, interesting info about heave springs.

Sure, I see your point. If he actually rebuilt the car multiple times and crashed it in the same, controlled conditions, iteratively improving the structure then yeah, that would be a legit engineering problem (a bit niche since who needs (alleged) 70 km/h impact resistant Lego structure but oh well...). In the end, surviving an impact is all about dissipating the energy; pieces flying in all directions are a good thing. Making things more sturdy will only result in more broken pieces so hard to say what the actual goal here might be. If piece survival, then oversized body sticking far out of the chassis, made out of flex tubes or soft panels linked with rubber connectors would be way to go, I guess?

Sure, but aren't crumple zones meant to, well, crumple? Not turn into thousand pieces flying in various directions? Also, the point of engineering a crumple zone is safety, and I don't see any crash dummies or acceleration sensors here. "See how that version crashes" is a pretty meaningless statement. It crashes like a Lego car. Sorry for being harsh, but in my opinion there's really no point to this, apart from video views. Which, of course, is a valid reason.

That is questionable. There is no knowledge gained from smashing a Lego car into a wall. Loose pieces will fall off, stiffer connections will break pieces. End of story. Mechanically, Lego car frame has almost nothing in common with real car frame so any parallels to real crash tests are misguided. I like Brick Experiment Channel, but he does do actual science and acomplishes impressive feats with Lego. This is not the case here.

Very cool! Good job with the shape, given the part constraints.

So cute!

Because it seems pretty pointless? Also, while the car is certainly fast (good job with RC setup!), this definitely doesn't look like 70 km/h, more like 30.

Thanks! Yes, I wanted to use new pistons, but currently only have 4 of the cam pieces and the engine is straight 8. I really struggled with trying to do a body with panels, so in the end settled on see-through designs like in old Technic. In the end, I like it more like that.

Initially, this car was going to be something along the lines of the amazing Fiat S76 recently built by JoKo https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/199895-moc-fiat-s76-beast-of-turin/ I made an engine: and then it became apparent that it is too big for the wheels. Still, may be of some interest. The new cylinder pieces sure open up some interesting, compact possibilities.

Absolutely amazing. I'm following this with great interest.

I never felt the need to have direction inverter plates, but that's maybe just me. By odd spacing, I mostly referred to gears. There are many gear ratios that are easy to do with bricks, but troublesome with studless construction. Also, remembering few simple brick stacking rules (literally only one - technic hole every 5 plates) is way easier than wrapping my head around hundreds of frames/connectors/panels.

Wow, that's really nice!

I'd argue with this one. Many odd spacings are easier to do with bricks, at least for me. One advantage of studded beams is rigidity. Bricks connected with plates will always beat anything connected with pins. But that advantage may be somewhat niche - in my specific case (Lego clocks) I'm working with extremely low power levels on the order of microwatts, even the littlest amount of friction due to axles in misaligned holes results in the mechanism seizing up. My studless constructions always need 3-4 times more power than studded ones.

There should be. Fun fact, the real race car has no front lights at all. So I suppose my rendition is a street-legal mod :P Thanks! The steering linkage was a headache. The bar connecting two wheels kept colliding with leaf springs. The current solution has extremely low ground clearance. Also, steering has a lot of slop. This is somewhat mitigated by the fact that large positive camber has self-centering effect, so that the car can drive in a straight line.

Thanks! I'd love to have some official set with 1920-30's car. TLG is releasing so many cars, and yet there's no old ones.

A sort-of accurate model of the 1930's race car. Pretty much my first attempt at car MOC. Features working inline 4 engine, clutch, steering, leaf spring suspension, electric motor power. compar 20240925_121637 Here are the details of steering linkage (similar to one used in old cars). There is a little ground clearance, despite how it looks :P 20240925_121545 And here front view, with pronounced positive camber: 20240925_121504 Finally, a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bh1qWiqci_k

Nice! Making a suspension within part limits will be quite a challenge.

So sleek! Nice!

100% this, although I have no issue with others having a different viewpoint. No idea what the fuss is about - making instructions takes time and skills, and some people prefer to get paid for their work. Simple as that. While maybe not directly applicable to the topic, in addition to releasing my book for free, I also published it on Amazon, with 0 royalties. People buying it pay for having it printed, nothing more. I have managed to sell 25 books so far. I imagine paid instructions fare a little better than that, being less niche.

Wow, I'm so happy to see people enjoying it! :) Nice job with the clock! Thanks! Yes, the lack of clickable links was an omission.

Aaand I managed to melt the cylinder piece. Passing 4A of current through the coil wasn't my brightest idea XD

Here's a potential simple alternative with no custom parts. Simply uses existing piston engine parts. I have no doubts that the power will be extremely low, but it should work. More results soon.

Yeah, this is weird. Counting about 3 watts per motor, it is ~2.3 kW total, or 3 horsepower. More than enough to get the car rolling, but 40mph seems unlikely.

Wow, this is so awesome! Amazing job overall, and the engine in particular! I love old cars, and this is certainly one of the most insane ones.

I had the same issue with this 3-ball connector as well. It seems to be a little weaker than other pieces with ball connection.