heyitsdisty

What an odd set. It kinda feels like a Mindstorms or educational model that they repurposed at the last minute? I kinda like it cuz I like jank, but I can't deny it's pretty ugly.

I think it looks gorgeous, personally. Not a fan of the new price though...

I'm sure this must have been asked before, but I wasn't able to find it via the forum search or index; apologies if I've missed it. I'm creating instructions in Studio for a model which uses Power Functions parts. Of course, the PF part models in Studio don't have cables attached. I'm fairly clueless when it comes to other 3D CAD programs and custom parts. Is there an easy way to get the cables (with plugs) into Studio? Preferably with flex functionality so I can adjust where the cables are on the model?

Can you share a link to the video in question? I've seen his videos on the XTAR 1.5v rechargeables if that's what you mean; sadly we don't have the budget for them, and in any case I'm looking for advice on using rechargeables in the remotes, not the hubs themselves.

I need advice from the Eurobricks community! We're in the process of getting ready for an event this Thursday/Friday where we'll be driving Powered Up robots (Technic 4-port hub, three L motors) running on Pybricks and controlling them via Powered Up remotes. We need to pick up batteries for the remotes. I'm wondering whether it might be more economical in the long run to get some rechargeable AAAs for the remotes; however I'm keenly aware that rechargeable NiHMs deliver a slightly lower voltage than disposables (1.2v versus 1.5v) Does anyone have experience using rechargeable NiMHs in Powered Up remotes when controlling Pybricks-flashed vehicles? Does the lower voltage affect the reliability of the connection, especially when there's more than one vehicle being driven at the same time? For context, the max number of robots we'll be running simultaneously at any one time is four; although if we can get to eight that'd be amazing too. (We won't be using NiHMs in the robots themselves, as we don't really want them running with lower speed and torque with the lower voltage!)

If by chance you're still looking for solutions two years later, good news - Pybricks now supports Xbox controllers!

Never knew this was a thing - cool! Thanks!

Am I seeing an old-style turntable on the excavator? The teeth look smaller than the current version.

Strictly speaking, Racers is a separate theme to Technic. But themes are essentially just product marketing. That set is like 99% Technic parts. It's a Technic set, innit?

Here's a lifting robot I designed to compete at events like the Great Western Brick Show (STEAM) and the Reading Brick Show (as well as smaller events with my own arena). Parents at these shows are always asking us what sets they should buy to get started with building their own bots, so I thought I'd do an alt-build of an existing set; albeit once that's going to need an extra motor if you want a powered weapon. Instructions available at Rebrickable or over at my Ko-fi page!

This is a good suggestion. If a boat weight won't fit, an old level crossing counterweight has a smaller form factor: Train Level Crossing Gate Type 2, Counterweight (Coated Metal) : Part 70163 | BrickLink

That's a good point, actually; @Jim, the first year of Bionicle sets (not to mention Slizers and Roboriders) were specifically branded as Technic. Can we assume those are out too?

I'm assuming only sets branded with the Technic line are accepted? We couldn't, for example, do one of the Bionicle vehicles which are primarily made up of Technic parts?

Sweet, thanks! Button.LEFT and Button.RIGHT are named rather unintuitively to me; I saw them in the documentation earlier but assumed they just meant 'any button (plus or minus) on the left/right'. Nevertheless, very excited to be able to use them!

Thanks for this; unfortunately my build really needs all four ports accessible at once, so switching between modes isn't ideal. Wait, you can use the red buttons? Is that what Button.CENTER is referring to? I always thought it was referring to the green button in the centre of the remote. Is there a way to use the left red and right red buttons independently? (In this case I'm hoping to turn a motor clockwise to a certain position with the left red button, and anticlockwise to another position with the right red button.)

Hey folks, I've been trying to connect two remotes to a single Technic hub (so ports A and B are on one remote and ports C and D are on the other). I'm not a programmer and all my attempts at writing code to connect two remotes has failed. Any solutions? Is it even possible to connect two remotes to a single hub in Pybricks?

I think you're overthinking it. Like any other company on social media, Lego need a steady stream of content to share out to their followers; sharing Technic MOCs kills three birds with one stone as it's content that Lego doesn't have to make themselves, it gets customers inspired to build their own Technic stuff (which helps drive Technic sales) and it makes existing Technic fans feel valued. I just went on Lego's Instagram and some of their most recent posts have been Mario, Lord of the Rings and Star Wars; I'm sure those themes/sets are selling perfectly well too, so it's not like Technic is somehow in dire need of more advertising and being singled out.

Not sure if this is the best place for the topic, but I couldn't think of anywhere more appropriate; feel free to delete if necessary, mods. Recently I went to a Lego show and stumbled upon some old education sets/parts being sold there. I picked up a WeDo hub and a 21980 medium motor that were in the same box. Weirdly though, the motor appears to have a different colour shaft (dark red) than other medium motors (red) that I've picked up when buying the App Controlled Batmobile set. Images below; dark red motor on the left, regular red motor on the right: (Larger pics over on my Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/higuysitsdisty/) I wondered if it might just be natural discolouration - in fact the white and LBG casing also looks very slightly darker that the other 21980 motors I have - but the dark red seems to be consistent and so close to Lego's official dark red that I can't help but feel it was intentional. It also doesn't seem to be a third party clone/fake; it seems to have all the official Lego markings on the back and bottom. I also had a quick look online, but as far as I can tell there's no mention of different motor batches having different shaft colours. What's going on here? Have a stumbled on a rare undocumented 21980 variant? Is it just discoloured from previous use/storage? Is it a clone or fake? Is this actually just a well-known feature of earlier 21980 motors and I'm a big dummy?

Hey folks, anyone know if it's possible to run higher-voltage batteries in a WeDo 2.0 hub like you can with other hubs? I would give it a try but I don't want to fry the hub if it doesn't work!

Thanks - I've contacted Lego customer support about the bug. Would installing an earlier version delete all my app data? I'm wary of having to recreate custom profiles; not just because it's a lot of work but also because I don't want to encounter the aforementioned problem with motors responding incorrectly.

I've encountered a really strange glitch in the Powered Up app that's driving me crazy. I want to delete some unwanted widgets in a custom controller profile (highlighted in green in the video below). However, any time drag those widgets to the trash icon, exit the profile and re-enter the profile, the widgets are back again. I can adjust the position of the widgets, change their address, change their colour etc, and the app will save those changes just fine. It just refuses to delete them. (The same thing happens with any widgets I try to delete; not just the green ones. I've also discovered the same issue on other controller profiles I've created.) Powered Up app glitch - YouTube You'll even notice in the video above, the profile's 'cover image' shows the widgets deleted; but they're right back there when the profile opens. I've tried closing and reopening the app, deleting the cache files from the app, renaming the widget, renaming the profile, opening the app with location and bluetooth on, opening the app with location and bluetooth off, duplicating the profile with the 'duplicate' button; none of them work. I've even tried remaking the profile from scratch by manually replicating the programming blocks; but then I ran into a separate issue with motors not responding as intended (even though all the motor control blocks are identical). Help?

To add to @howitzer's post: this is a good intro tutorial to custom programming in the Powered Up app:

Looks really nice so far! I'd maybe suggest replacing the treads with these, which will probably fit the scale better? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3873&name=Technic, Link Tread&category=[Technic, Link]#T=C

I feel like this question might get me laughed out of the Technic subforum, but just cuz I'm curious... Does the vehicle have to be a real world construction vehicle? What about, say, a futurist concept vehicle like the Zeux? Or a vehicle from a fictional property, like this Thunderbirds truck? https://thunderbirds.fandom.com/wiki/Gray_%26_Houseman_Road_Construction_Vehicle

This is perhaps a little off-topic, but I thought it best to post here instead of starting a whole new thread for it. Does anyone have any tips for identifying light grey vs light bluish grey for 12-tooth bevel gears? I'm usually fairly good at distinguishing the two colours on most parts, but for some reason I find it really difficult to tell 12-tooth gears apart.