T_Tank

Could do like I'm doing right now an make a "small" monster truck with the motor makes it easier to make a short wheel base. http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-07-14121921.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-07-14121842.jpg http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-07-14121822.jpg btw this is using a part in the new unimog set (got it from pick a brick over the phone) http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/ad128/PinTekIndustries/2011-07-13202225.jpg

Finally got my "torque tube" , portal axle hubs an tires from pick a brick an haven't gotten a chance to try an make some tatra axles with the new portal axle parts. The torque tubes work amazingly in my small monster truck (the lt gray end holds the 3 stud wide dif in very firmly) an the new tires i think will make some really amazing large scale 18 wheelers :D

I remember seeing that tamiya lunchbox kit this lego version is alot cooler an in my opinion looks a hell of alot more fun. HI5 man great job!

I don't know if anyone else has tried this but it seams that with the power functions speed remote an a extension wire to adapt you old 9v motors to pf you are able to speed regulate them.

just out of curiousity how much space would there be on each side if you some how removed the gearing an pto system. I really would think maybe intergrated a couple of rechargable battery packs instead of the large AA power pack would work to help with the weight issue. Though I already have ideas for what I'd do to one of these mogs once I get it even though it could mean loosing the pneumatics an pto but I'd love to have this working as a power functions rc

How hard you think it would be to make the model (with the exception of the pneumatic controls) fully remote controled? I was thinking when I eventually get one of these adding a lego RC motor to drive it maybe change the guts out for the pto system to actually run off the drive line an going a little bit further with a automatic pto that runs the pump so when it reaches a certain pressure it would move the shift ring to the neutral position. Probably over thinking that <,< though if using the RC system to drive it an then using PF's to run all the extra controls....hmmm.... more ideas in my head >.<

Yup both engines are based off their real world air cooled counter parts and thanks for the advice on the backdrop. An at the moment my current project that the VW boxer goes into is a pan which is mostly waiting on parts so that I can continue the build. Plan is to have a accurate vw chassi that can be in the short variant for a manx buggy or full length for a stock bug shell or another kit car maybe a sterling an the biggest challenge for the vw body will be making sure i make it to scale enough so that there is barely enough room for the porche boxer ,just like in the few engine conversions I've seen this done. P.S. When I get some more free time I'll take some photo based instructions for making these engines including the stands I made for them to.

While working on my vw pan chassis I ended up on making a second boxer engine (Porche styled flat 6). So I figured I should show the world my vw boxer 4 an my Porche boxer 6. Here are the two together VW boxer 4 Added plenty of details including removable heads, bosch coil, generator, carb, intake manifold, exhaust with heat ex changers. Porche Boxer 6 Like the VW boxer 4 there is a set of carbs (6 of them), Bosch coil, distributor (red cylinder), generator, removable heads.

If you mean a youtube vid I sadly don't have any video recording device >.< an I never learned how to upload stuff to youtube x.X

Here is my off road motorbike I made one day when I was working on getting colors fixed on another MOC. Features: Working horizontally apposed 2 cylinder engine (chain driven), Opening "Hood" panels on the side of the bike, working suspension front an rear, chain drive with details to add a "clutch/transmission look", front radiator, working steering.

Thanks for the comments so far everyone. @bord4kop I have a 1968 vw bug in RL that has swing axles on the rear though its a standard manual, according to one VW tech they said 1968 was the final year for swing axles. I'd would go with making a super beetle front end with IRS rear axles but then it wouldn't be like my own bug an that be to easy <,<. An thanks for the compliment on the engine I guess you could say the tiles are some sort of very narrow external oil cooler for the engine, I had fun putting together the motor was a lot of fun need to get some bands for the crank pulley to run the generator around on the back. @VLMN8R I could try that but the only set I have with those front suspension parts is my rebel wrecker an I have sworn to never take apart that set!(Its a set I have wanted since I was a child). edit -------- Some updates +Return to center steering based off sheepo's designs +Front suspension reworked some (using different lift arm parts an axles) +Engine has been widened an details added such as:cylinder heads, dual exhaust tips, changed pulley's for generator

I'm not familiar with the flex system you speak of but at the moment the front end sways apart under load an need some suggestions on reinforcing or redesign of the front end to still look an work like the real counter part but be able to be more durable for a body an PF parts.

Hello everyone I've been tinkering around with making a Volkswagen type1 (bug) chassi an am having a hard time figuring how to make a more sturdy an reliable front suspension on it while keeping to the way VW did it in the real world. Here is what I have so far with my MOC. Here is some pics of the rear suspension (swing axles) an the engine

Well in normal twin countershaft truck transmissions there are no parts inside them to keep the gears from turning the wrong way if the engine starts spinning in reverse.(This happened at my school had a run away diesel after the key was turned off an it started running backwards, the instructor had to hop into the truck an put it in reverse with the parking brake engaged so it would cut the engine out)

I have to say love the review! I still have my 8858 in its alternate model (though was missing a few parts to make it have proper headlights so... its now a single headlight) Its one of the few technic sets I refuse to take apart I love the look of it. 8858 alt front 8858 alt side 8858 alt back 8858 alt bottom

Looks like its kinda similar to Nico71's lada but its using a combination of this steering part 4261 , 2 12t double bevels, 4 12t bevels, 2 20t bevels, 1 8t, all driven by a worm gear with the steering gear (16 Tooth with Clutch) riding on the drive axle. Pretty smart way of making a super compact steer axle.

Possibly could use some really low viscosity RC shock absorber fluid. Shoulder cause any rusting with that solution an sorry to hear about your pistons getting all gunked up an rusty x.x. Maybe to salvage them remove all the none metal parts form the piston an get some rust remover an then put it back together? Least then they should still be useable for normal pneumatic use.

ya sounds like a leak I've got a blue one that I some how managed to blow out in one of the connector holes in the bottom >.<.

Reminds me a lot of the 8297.

try to fit a rc motor inside it maybe? it would eat more batteries but possible give it some more speed. Though I'd just love to have a radio controlled mog :D

I think its a interesting idea for selling instructions an sets. Could aslo maybe sell something to the equivelent to the education sets like a premade pneumatic engine, could see some young kids being introduced to technic really having a blast putting together one of those an seeing how it all works. An also loved to see a couple of good simple working truck trial like designs be available to learn off.

I really want to get this set badly an would likely remove the pneumatics from it or re purpose them to make a multi gear trasmission an make the mog into a working off road vehicle an change the tire treads to the more off road style. likely make a dump bed for the back to if I could figure how to gear it all up

Dlunders post sums it up what I'm having issues with an ya sorry about getting the tooth counts off embarrassed about that >.<. The shorter teeth don't mesh right an cause it to slip at that one an only point. Also that square box liftarm softa works for I did try using one for a axle but it wasn't wide enough to add the gears to the sides to make it possible to use a locker -based on Sariel's idea for a 3stud wide locker found here 3studs wide Diff locker - Now I'm thinking with both axles running with the center diff locked an the diffs not synchronized at that flat spot I should be able to stil operate it I'll unfortunately find this out after a couple of months saving an packing for a trip. But if anyone here has some ideas to improve the concept some that be great.

its the 24tooth gear on the differential housing itself that slips on the side where you put the 3 12tooth bevels inside it (has grooves for the outer sides to slide in but not to fall out through the bottom). I do like how lego did make the newer differential smaller compared to the older generation one thats actually used for my central diff.

Update new axle concept finished used axles to make the internal structure an then added the outside area supports its very sturdy still need to figure how to mount the pneumatic locker piston onto the axle. At the moment I'm very happy with these axles, although I have found there is a defect with the 8t bevel connecting to the 24T on the diff on the side where you load the smaller differential gears that the tooth mesh there Isn't enough to keep the 8T from slipping on all the other spots of the 24T gear it meshes perfectly an doesn't move out of place. Anyone else find this issue with the newer lego diffs? I'm slightly tempted to make a axle using the older generation diff but that will make the axle alot clunkier. >.<