doug72

Most larger Technic sets have PF for some functioins, i.e. operating cranes, out riggers etc. but do not have any provision for remote driving or steering. The Unimog being a prime example. Instructions should be included on how to install motors, Rx etc as you build to allow for drive & steering. In order to do after set has been built means you have to be partly dissembled to install these functions, once instructions become available.

Read my post more carefully. MORE means - higher cost i.e. £115 to £138 and I've seen it as high as £150 on eBay Lego Shop £92

Why pay more than the Lego list price for items still in stock from Lego Shop. I have just received in less than 3 days the Maersk Train 10219 for £91.99 plus £3.95 shipping.(this week it is free shipping for orders over £50) The same set is on sale at on-line sites for between 25 to 50% more.

The magnets used in the Lego train couplings seem rather odd in that that don't appear to have any polarity i.e. any pair will couple together. Would have thought they were be a set i.e 1 x N & 1 x S Unlike poles attract, like poles repel - Was hoping to use another magnet to repel one half of each coupling. Doug72

Hi - just brought my first Lego train - 7938 - as a trial before deciding to switch from OO gauge model trains to Lego trains. Question: Is there a way that trains & wagons can be un-coupled without touching them. I want to build a gravity coal dock unloading system based on real system that once existed where I live. Doug

I use a small pair of needle nose pliers with spring apart jaws to pull connector pins out, works very well and can also be used to pull axles out when they get stuck. The condition is called tendonitus caused by repetetive strain !!!!

It is possible to prise apart the two halves of the turntables and also to "mix and match" types 1 & 2 turntables. They are only a snap fit. ie studded bottom male half with studless top female half or vica verca if desired, so you could also mix and match top & bottom colours as well. Doug

Have had breakages happen with Lego sets built as per instructions, especially the larger heavier sets. my own MOCs are geared right done. Doug

I have managed to break many 3L universal couplings especially when used in 4 & 6 wheel drives - they crack between the shoulder and small side opening thus making axles loose, allowing them to slip out. I have tried super glue with limited success but have now found a simple way to keep using them. Slip a small "o" ring over each end and the grip on the axles is restored - the "o" ring should be 4mm i.d. x 6mm o.d In most situations the "o" should not foul other parts. For more grip add two "o" rings each end.

Instead of changing the wires around and seeing you have to remove the axles & gears to do this - a simpler method would be to reverse the axles and gears in there bearings - simple.

£15 off is correct but 3 for 2 offer only applies on selected toys at Argos and does not aplly to the Unimog. Check their website for details.

Use 8/24 as final reduction but use a 24T clutch gear (white) instead of a plain 24T gear - that way it will slip before actuatotr internal clutch kicks in.

I have changed the gears in the portal axle boxes to 12/20 double bevel gears - gives good speed / power ratio. Again you have to modify it a bit to allow space for 20T gear. 8/24 means the 8t gear might be over loaded. The XL motor mounted as shown in video works well and does not foul the cargo body and drives the 16T gear on centre diff.

4 lobe knobs gears provide much better transmission and engagment than toothed gears for the right angle drive between cab and chassis. Exactly what they are designed for. The drive to the steering rack only makes a 1/2 turn from full left to full right so juddering not a problem. My Unimog now completed and steering is smooth and stable.

Thanks for providing that file. Due to weight of Unimog it can difficult to turn the steering when vehicle is stationary but it works OK when Unimog in motion. Doug72

I have used an M motor for steering with triple reduction. 12/20 : 8/24 clutch : 12/20 all built between the existing 15L orange vertical beams with the M motor in the cab vertically between seats. Took a while to get good supports for the axles to stop gears jumping but works OK and 24 clutch gear operates when steering on full lock. ps unable to post larger images as my limit appears to be 100Kb

To fix the stiff steering replaced the red friction pins by 4Laxles with stop held in place by 2 - 1/2 collars. Whilst this made steering much lighter found that when suspension was compressed it became stiff again. Found this to be caused by the 5.5L axle with stop in the steering was bottoming out on the inside of the sliding universal coupling. i.e its a shade too long. This pushes the dark grey part of the UV against the bearing support. A 5L axle is not longer enough. The 5.5L axle with stop needs to be shortened slightly.

I found this to be a good model with lots of manual functions - however the look is spoilt by the pertruding axles (by 1.5L) on the rear wheels which uses a cross axle 5.5 with stop 1M (p/n 4508553) I made a small mod by removing these axles and using 4L axles with stop instead (p/n 4560177). To support this I used two 3L pins with centre hole (p/N 4560175) used in tandam. A connector pin between axle stop and main beam prevents the axle being pushed in when the wheel is added. it was fairly easy to carry out without a major dismantling. This greatly improves the look of this model.

I have never had any problem with dual LA's getting out of sinc. If the gear train does not slip that cannot happen UNLESS you allow the LA's to go full travel and actuate the internal clutch. Until Pnuematic cyclinder have a means of feed back they can only be either fully extended or fully retracted. Also under heavy load they close to quickly to be realistic. If they were hydraulic (oil or water) then they would stop at any desired position which is what LA's do. LAs can be set at any desired position between full extended or full retracted. Most aircraft use electrically operated linear actuators to control flaps etc so there is a precedence for their use. The purfusion of hoses on models with pnuematic cyclinders detracts from the overall appearence. This can be a problem with PF elements but usually the cables can be tucked away out of sight. ONLY plus point for pnuematic cycliders is their colour being yellow. LAs should be made in yellow also.

I have ordered direct from Lego LAs and other various gears / parts without any bother. Just ring their toll free phone line as shown on the website.

Yes it has solved the steeering issue - front loader now turns at a realistic rate, is powerful but cannot over-travel. Stays locked in desired postion until next command sent. There is very little backlash. The imput drive to the LA yoke can be any suitable arrangement.

Now on my 5th re-build of the 8265 Front Loader to provide all functions plus drive the dummy engine. I have tried all the various posted mods but none have given ALL functions reliably. 5th rebuild has: Front end has 1 M motor to drive bucket lift arms LAs. Rear end has:- 1 x XL motor for drive all 4 wheels plus dummy engine. 1 x M motor to drive LA for bucket tilt 1 x M for articulated steering. All previous attempts to build an aticulated steering system failed due:- Long complicted drive chains with many UJs, gears prone to slipping and breaking of gears. LAs too slow travel and difficult to limit the travel. Finally I have come up with a strong, compact, precise system using a rack and pinion sytem. The drive from the M motor is 36:1 reduction with a 24T slip Clutch for protection, then via LA yoke for 90 deg drive to a 12T knob gear engaging with the 8L rack which runs fore and aft along the chassis. A short 3L swinging link joins this to the front unit. 2L axles (red) limit the travel to 5L which gives 45 degs left and right for steering. The unit sits low down on th e chassis allowing wheel drive to pass below and LA drive above. Steering is now much improved. I have made up a small mock up to show the layout - see photo.

I think you will find this was intentional to provide a degree of "sticktion" to prevent this lay shaft moving once motor not powered. If teeth in the driving rings are not in line then sometimes it takes a couple of attempts to align them. I found a couple of short pulses on the motor worked the best NOT prolonged powering of motor. With this complex model it is essential to ensure all componants are pushed home (ie UJ , sleeves etc.) and aligned correctly otherwise binding will take place. With testing by hand at each stage. My model is now modified with new LAs BUT the origional design worked fine for me. The problem with the old LAs was the end of internal screw thread biting into the sleeve due to a sharp edge - causing wear and binding - when under heavy load - new design of LA eliminates this.

The rear bucket for the new backhoe also appears to be new - 1/3rd width of bucket used on the 8043 excavator

I have checked all four actuators and all have 36X0 on them. Doug72