ben20

'why not get the maximum out of parts or models?' For example the wheel hubs, why not make it so it has less freeplay?' 'or model example, with the Arocs they build a new part to extend the crane arm, but when making also a new pneumatic cilinder they made it for some reason 2 studs to short

it depends if you buy new or used links If they are used in a model, they are sometimes streched (to much torque). There is also a difference in chain links. i have links from the 90s and they are a lot stronger than the new ones. The tolerance on lego parts i verry big, so you won't notice it when combine with gears

https://store.bricklink.com/Eezo#/shop?o={"showHomeItems":1} It's best to try out first your drivetrain with normal axles. If your model is finishd, then you swap the normal ones with the metal axles. This because you would damage the x hole if you slide it to much in and out lego pieces (not a tight fit after that). But when installed no problem, And since it's metal, try to avoid high rpm and use some lube for less wear of the plastic

Outdoor test

No problem. A long tube is just like an air tank. The only thing... the longer the tube the more air in the system, and less contol over the piston

Superb model! Smooth driving with 5kg is verry impresive. And now a vid with the Bucyrus loading the Cat to make it complete

Try the older bush parts on the axles, they give more than double the force of 'normal' ones

Some lube reduce the sound. You have to open the housing and grease the gears. Note, you will have a litle power loss since the gears have more friction

http://www.moc-pages.com/moc.php/433674

A couple years ago i want to improve the axles on my wheel loader. The biggest problem was that i disassembled it so much that i had no idea how to put it back together to the original version At that time i was also at work with rc models, bruder build to working models, so the Lego project was on hold. But after now 2 years i missed a loader in my collection. The easy way was to build a Bruder loader because they are a lot faster to build and take less sleepless nights than a lego model But Since the L350F is my favorite loader and bruder have no Volvo models that was a problem. So the only way for me was to build the loader again. When building i got the idea to mix Lego with rc parts so i have both, a Lego model but with rc parts. After a lot of work this is the result... Some facts: Drivetrain uses metal Lego axles for minimum backlash when loading. Propulsion by pf xl, steering pf medium. The boom was original made with large actuators from lego like my first model, but for extra weight and power i decided to use Cti actuators for the functions. Lights in front, back, under the cab, and on the roof a warning light. The back and brake lights are part of a module, so they work automatic when brake or reverse For control i use 2.4ghz system. In fact thats what makes the functions smooth, if i used 2.4ghz for my first loader it would also run as smooth as this (except for the backlash) Stickers are from the technic L350f, they give a cool extra realism

You can also buy older pins, they have a bigger inner diameter and more friction

Do you want speed?

It is not posible (to do it perfect) with Lego because the electronics to do this are verry complex. I tried it with my Lego wheel loader and it didnt work smooth. I also do Bruder rc conversion, and they use one motor for each wheel. If you have a heavier model (like my Bruder) it is better, but never as good as with difs.

i have the same on my model, normal pressure when turning left, 'no' or less pressure when turning right. Try with longer tubing, or replace the friction pins

5kg is impossible! 3.2kg max with compressorpump driven by hand, 2.4kg with large handpump (tested myself)

A difference of 1-5Ncm ok, but 75Ncm between the same xl motor? (between Sariels book and Lego site)

What/who is correct about torque and current (consumption)? http://powerfunction...fault.aspx#8882 http://www.philohome...ec/pfcurves.htm http://www.philohome...s/motorcomp.htm ( go to Stalled characteristics) https://books.google...f=false�������� (GO TO PART 3 MOTORS)

Is there news about your latest turntable version 3, does it work?

The heavy duty diff looks verry strong. One thing, the 12t bevel gear (driving gear) makes the strenght of the diff useless. Is it posible to make a strong diff thats is driven by 12t double bevel? Or maybe a new stronger (printed)12t bevel gear without axle Do you have an idea how much torque these parts are stronger than the original lego material? ( I mean, a 12t lego breaks at xl stall 40Ncm, so what's the breaking point of printed 12t) Thanks btw for all your work to make strong lego components!