rsb0204

it is a nice locomotive, only thing is it appears to be way over scale. the wheels look like they are at 12 studs vs the 6 stud wide track lego makes and the loco as a whole looks to be about 20 wide. it would have to be "scaled down" to work right and ofcouse that would mean sacrificing a lot of detail. even if there were instuctions you would not be able to run it on lego track, it would be more of a display item like #396 (Thatcher Perkins 1863). the locomotive from the cutscenes on the other hand looks to be 10 wide, witch is doable.

ive been playing with one of my yellow motors and a few of the small train wheels from my 4855 (leftovers, as it is now a monorail) and it turns out that if you leave the tires on the clockwork motors wheels and attach the small wheels to keep the engine on track it works really well, makes about 2 1/2 loops and has lots of traction, plus it has a much higher top speed. unfortunately it cant pull jack because having the bigger wheels with the tires on them effectively raises the gear ratio (witch is why it is faster) and the motor dosent have much power to begin with lol. yea they arnt really suppose to come off, and it takes a lot of work to get the new ones on too. don't worry about hurting the motor, the wheels will break first if things go bad. heres how you do it, grab the one wheel with each hand and turn them in opposite directions a few times to make sure they arnt stuck to the axle then pull them away from each other as hard as you can while turning the wheels back and forth. eventualy one will come off. then either pry the other wheel off with a flat blade screw driver (if you don't want to use it later, it will most likely break the wheel) or hold the metal shaft with a set of vise-grips and remove the wheel in the same way you removed the first one (if you want it to be useable later). now the hard part is getting the new wheels on, the metal shaft from the motor is the same size as the metal shaft that sticks out of the back of an old lego train wheel. you have to remove the shaft from the train wheel and then press it on to the shaft on the motor. but much like the wheels on the motor the shafts in the train wheels were not ment to be removed. you need to grab the metal shaft in the train wheel with some vise-grips (or a set of pliers) and pull the shaft out. this is much easier said than done, and you have to be very carful not to break the train wheel in the process. once you get the shaft out you just press the train wheels onto the shafts on the motor (don't press them so far as to make contact with the motor, leave a small gap) and your done. it helps if you have a broken motor to practice with first. if you look at the top left corner of the fist pic you can see a yellow clockwork motor with the wheels removed. I tried all this on that motor first, it was junk, totally jammed, I think some kid played with it in the bath tub and then the internals rusted solid. I also took that motor apart, and let me tell you, these things are made well. the shaft is one solid piece with a gear in the middle that contacts a series of other gears before finaly reaching the spring, its all metal and its all thick, you arnt going to break it with anything short of a hammer.

ive never seen anything quite like it, the wheel configuration is very odd. at a glance it appears to be a 0-8-8-0 (witch is rare in itself), but upon closer inspection it is actually a 6-2-8-0 . im reasonably sure there has never been a real locomotive with a wheel set of 6-2-8-0. on a side note, it also appears the locomotive from the cutscene is different from the locomotive used in gameplay. the locomotive from gameplay seems to resemble an erie L-1 0-8-8-0 camelback with the cab moved to the rear of the boiler and a shorter front truck fitted. the color sceme of the locomotive resembles the old BR black/red style. due to the color sceme and wheel set one could also argue it is based off a BR 96 mallet locomotive with the coal bunker removed and a tender fitted. however both of thease locomotives have a 0-8-8-0 wheel set, as (to my knowledge) a 6-2-8-0 wheel set doesent exist.

well actually he gave plenty of details, see 7722 is a 4.5v set, no transformer, no brushes, just direct battery power. it appears as though you have it confused with a 12v set. now as for the problem your having, its probably the battery box car. the switches don't ever seem to work quite right on them, most of the time the insides of the switch isn't making proper contact due to corrosion or the contacts are just worn out. this is one of the reasons I changed my 7722 to a tender battery box (much like a 122 would have) as it has been my experience that they are more reliable. not to mention 7722 looks better with a tender. if you really want to keep the original battery box car id recommend taking it apart and giving it a good cleaning, and wile you have it apart check for defects and wear. ofcourse if it is badly worn you will probably have to replace it.

yes I did. the standard wheels worked fine, however it wont go trough switches with them fitted because of the outside flange. if your just running a loop though they would work great

I like this, I never thought of trying to make a FRED, have you found out why it isn't flashing? I think this would look real nice on a caboose like 10014 where the lanterns would be.

ill admit, when im on the road, I use the numbered bags. nothing more annoying than having 200 bricks laying in your bed, and then have the yard dog tell you its time to bump dock, your gonna lose a few and youll find them that night when you have to pull them out of your spine. now at home though, yea screw it, all bricks one pile. I don't care if its a 100 piece set or 1000, all one pile, makes the build last longer, and I build cause its fun so the longer I can make it last the better.

well my circle is about 6 feet long one way, and it makes 1 1/2 loops so about 18 feet. it would probably go farther but the wheels slip a bit. im ordering replacement ruberbands for the wheels of my 7722 soon, I think ill put a set on this and see if it helps. ive been pulling the tanker car from 7939 with it and it makes one loop like that to, but only if give it a little push at the end of the second corner, with 2 cars it still makes it part way through second corner, when it doesent jump the track. the rear (drive) wheels are a little to far from the back of the cab due to the way the motor is set up so with 2 cars it does wheelies, ill probably put a carrier axle with small wheels in the rear under the cab, like this. http://www.narrowgau...ain/69tal01.jpg

one day I was playing with an old wind up motor i had. I alwase liked the way these motors spun at a fairly slow pace for a long time, rather than spinning all their power away in the first few seconds after winding like most wind up/pull back motors do. thats when it hit me, sence it has such a long run time, just how far would it go on my layout? well, it worked better than you would think, so i carefully removed the road wheels the motor came with and fitted it with a set of blue/grey era train wheels (easier said than done). i decided id make the loco in the classic 80s style sence the running gear was from that time period. the end result? I tried to make it as small and light as possible, its smaller than it looks in the pic, fits in the palm of your hand. heres it is next to 7722 for size comparison. theres just enough room for a minifig in the cab. his head just barely touches the roof. well it was a fun experiment to say the least, the engine isn't exactly what you would call practical, but it works ok for what it is. its actually pretty suprising what it can do, really under rated motors these.

hi, im not to good at introductions. well, my wife and I are afols. it may sound a bit odd but we are otr truckers and when we are laid over and looking for a good way to kill time till our next load gets ready we get out the legos. im a big fan of trains, 4.5v, 12v, 9v, rc, pf, even monorail, it dosent mater, I like them all. I have a small layout at home that I one day hope to expand when I get all the parts I want. (i've lots of trains, not so much track) I don't do that many mocs but when I do its something special. we have been in the shadows over the years and we figured we'd just make an account, we alwase find ourselves looking through this forum so why not? btw I love the sigs a lot of you guys use from http://www.fa-meier....epot/depot.html, too cool. Im working on putting mine together. so, yea, hello everyone!