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Hello everyone: I am glad to share this project, the mining excavator, based on Cat 6090. Phisycal Configuration: The Lego Cat6090 is a motorized digger on tracked wheels, 2 XL motors provided enough torque. On the track frame is placed the main structure, and a heavy duty turntable allows good rotations, without fricctions. The turntable is rotated by means of 1 XL motor. The main structure contains: the XL motor for turntable, the air compressor, 4 servos for pneumatic valves and the controller. The design is ultra compact in order to meet the requierement of size/scale. The tracked whell is ultra rigid structure, designed to resist extreme load. The air compressor has 4 XL motor and 2 pneumatic pumps, in order to provide a constant air flow and high pressure, both pumps are de-phased 180° in order to reduce vibrations. 4 PF-servos open/close 2 way air valves, to command all pneumatic actuators. The boom has 2 large pneumatic actuator. Due to heavy height of the boom, 4 spring supply extra force during the elevation. 2 large pneumatics actuators push/pull the arm, those actuators are placed below the arm. 2 large penumatics actuators dedicate to rotate the bucket. 1 medium pneumatic actuator, open/close the bucket. Electrical configuration: Three 18650 batteries provide an average of 11.1 V, the compressor are suplied with 11.1 V, and the servos, lights and turntable motor are suplied with 9V. A BMS (Battery Managment System) manages the charge and the discharge durgin the operation. The tracked frame is steering by the use of 11.1 V, and as well is manage by the use of a BMS. On Board System (OBS): The name given to the controller. There are two systems, one for the main structure, and the secund is used to move the tracked well. The main controller, is a server TCP/IP protocol. The controller has a ESP8266 microcontroller with a TCP/IP stack, this controller is able to be programmed in arduino languaje (also micropython) - Teh ESP8266 is used as a sever, Motor driver: used to control the compressor The 4 PF servos are controlled by means of digital outputs, and the lights. ld293d, this is a H-bridge used to control the turntable motor. The second controller, is a ESP8266 as a client, and controls the speed of the tracks. Also, it has a BMS in order to regulates the charges/discharge of the batteries Accessories: 1) Josyticks: Two joysticks, with 4 dof (degrees of freedom) each of one plus a on/off button, are connected to the server module. 2) App: An application developmented under Android studio is used to visualizate the air pressure and electrical current, this app is WIP (work in progress). Conectivity: The comunication used is socket TCP/IP- Main features: maximun pressure reached: 52 psi (358 Kpa) Voltage bus: 11.1 V Compressor electrical consuption: 23 W Weight: 6 kg Length: 30 cm width: 20 cm height: 30 cm Here some pictures, during the construction and commissioning Note: my apologies for my primitive english
technical posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingI bought this blue item advertised as "Mini Pump Double Valve" on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/301854575416 It does not seem like a pump to me. It works like an actuated piston. Is the blue cylinder supposed to be a pump?
After I designed an 8x4 chassis, I wanted to try something new when it came to building something to put on it. I wanted to make something with a ton of functions, and I wanted it not to have Power Functions! Seeing all the functions others have previously included in various Tow Trucks (notably Sariel, Dikkie Klijn and Grazi), and the different ways of getting those functions to work, I decided that Tow Truck = lots of interesting functions = a nice challenge! The lack of anything electric here, really reminded me of how Technic Lego used to be when I was young, with manual cranks and pumps and stuff! I really like it this way! Like all my previous MOCs, it is absolutely not based on any particular real life vehicle, but it is in the style of a European type, heavy Recovery Truck. I'm pretty sure some of the particular functions I've implemented doesn't even exist in that iteration in any real life vehicle Anyways, I'll let the pictures do most of the talking, however I will interrupt at occasions to point things out along the way For some "behind the scenes" pictures and some more technical information regarding the functions, please check out my "blog" Will have to wait till tomorrow to make a video, as it is now too dark to make anything good As you can probably see, I borrowed some details from the 8258 cab, and then redesigned it, adding a taller roof, openable doors, a different grille, some slopes for better lines, and a front mounted winch. The cab tilts forward to reveal a V8 engine, driven from the two rear wheels, through a central differential (placed just forward of axle 3) You can also see the front stabilizers. These should be deployed first, as pumping the manual pumps without them, can make even the strongest sailor or truck driver seasick The front winch can be used to recover cars/vehicles that are just slightly stuck on the side of the road. The stabilizers provide.. stability It is driven by turning the grey 12z bevel gear in the front The rear features a similar winch, for the same purpose. It can also be used to tow vehicles, or pull them up onto the towing fork when it is deployed. Here the rear stabilizers also perform the same function as the ones in the front. Between them, the front and rear stabilizers easily lifts the (quite heavy) truck off the ground Yeah, kinda looks like it's going to snap down the middle.. the curse of studless building But it actually is fairly solidly built! The independent suspension works pretty well (then again the truck is quite heavy) The front two axles feature double wishbone suspension, and the rear axles are live (probably not true to life, but good in Lego) The doors open (JUST LIKE IN A REAL LIFE TRUCK!!) And now for the fun stuff The towing fork swivels/yaws, and is lifted and tilted using pneumatics. If you hav crashed another European style truck, and don't want a crane boom through your windshield, it can be extended by 5-6 studs using an old style pneumatic cylinder. It retracts with the help of rubber bands. (Will show better in video later on) As for the crane, if you need to recover someone directly behind you, you can just extend the outriggers and raise it up And the extend the boom Boom extention is not via pneumatics, but rather via a crank mounted on the right hand side of the chassis, just behind the second axle. A system of gears and crossaxles work their way up through the turntable and to the end of the main boom, where there is a worm drive. Did I say turntable? But of course, with the flick of a couple of (pneumatic) switches, you can recover trucks that fell off the side of the road and into a gorge! The slewing of the crane is done with pneumatics, similar to the system on the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig from the early nineties. Unfortunately this limits the work area to slightly less than 180 degrees to the rear of the truck The outriggers are deployed with.. you guessed it: pneu-matics! And the under belly shot I think this covers it all Two air pumps, one air tank, 8 square bottomed cylinders, 9 rounded bottom cylinders, one long old style cylinder (18 pneumatic cylinders in total), 9 switches, too many T-pieces to count and several meters of pneumatic tubing later, I had to finish it, as I need pieces for the [TRIPLE] challenge! I also made a compressor unit, that will fit in the cabin, if I'm feeling lazy. But the overall goal was to make something PF-less, and I am very happy with the result! Video:
Tclancey posted a topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale ModelingHi folks. I'm a new member to please forgive me if I'm in the wrong place... Just wondering if anyone has any advice on pressure testing the lego pneumatic systems. I'm building up some old models, I know I need to replace bits, but want to know which bits without going through hours of swapping them around. Also, what's the best advice for old pneumatic rams that are a bit 'lumpy', is there a safe way of lubricating internal seals? I've thought of a hyperdermic and thin motor oil, but don't want to use anything that's going to damage the plastic or o-rings. Any help gratefully received.