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Found 323 results

  1. Th3_Br1ck_Kid

    Troubleshooting for Helicarrier

    Hello, Eurobricks. I wanted to post this page because a few days back, I FINALLY managed to get a 4x8 train motor, so I could motorize the engines on my Lego Helicarrier. But when I put in all the power function accessories, the lights came on, but the rotors barely spun for a second. I was wondering if anyone else had motorized their helicarrier, and experienced a similar problem. If so, do you have any solutions to how on fix the problem? Thank you, Th3_Br1ck_Kid
  2. Here's a little 42030 C-model (+ extra wheels, ONLY added extra parts). It was meant to be just a remedy for boredom while ill, so I build "just so", whatever comes to my mind - just wanted it to be remote controlled. But I quite like the result: a flamboyant van perfect for just cruising around and scaring people. It performs well enough for a heavy, single XL motor-powered model. The gearing somehow makes it slower on reverse which is a fringe benefit, realism-wise. Steering is quite good, turn radius is tight. 35 studs long body + 5 studs long "wings". Functions and feats: ► RC driving and steering ► sliding side doors on the right side, opening doors and fuel cap ► supercharger's scoop in the rear tilts up to reveal the gap leading towards the on/off switch that is activated by rod that can be kept on a special pivoted rack inside the van (you can use the "flag" poles as well, but that's just barbaric) ► non-functional decorated interior, including seats, steering wheel, gear shifter and handbrake ► details such as supercharger scoop, roof-mounted horns, floodlights and break lights, rear view mirrors, exhaust pipes, fenders, flags, radio antenna, floored interior
  3. Hey Guys, Currently purchasing parts for my first project (more on that later), but starting plan the next one. I am looking to build a narrow gauge steam locomotive and railway with the Indiana Jones track. I am looking at a classic 4-6-0 ten-wheeler, similar to the Lone Ranger Constitution but scaled more to narrow gauge. Ala Walter E. Disney: or more like Tweetsie No. 12: To scale to narrow gauge on the 3-wide IJ track I wanted to use 50254 for the leading truck wheels and three sets of 55423 for the drivers. My issue is gearing the drivers while still making it look like a steamer on the outside. I am aware of Space2310's bogie, but was trying to keep the outside a little less clunky and just having a driver rod with something like 32065 or custom Zephyr rods. So I am asking for your help to design a 3 axle narrow gauge PF bogie, hopefully internally framed. The center axle probably has to be floating to contend with the 3-wide sharp curved IJ track... Any bogie gurus out there?!
  4. Greetings Train Tech, This MoC was actually built over a year ago! I originally designed and built it for use as a "demonstrator" model for a how-to post on Power Functions steam locomotives that I haven't gotten around to writing (although the precursor post is available). While we're waiting on that, I figured I might as well post this model. Prototype History British Railways built this class of 2-6-2 tank engines for a mixed traffic role. Apparently they were very similar to the LMS Ivatt Class 2 2-6-2T, from which they were derived. While none of the class survived into preservation, The Bluebell Railway is rebuilding one of the related 2-6-0 tender locomotives into an example of this class. Engineering Details Usually when I build a MoC, I start with the prototype in mind, then work towards the model. This model began with the desire to build "a small steam locomotive to demonstrate Power Functions", which then determined the choice of prototype. The Standard/Ivatt Class 2 has a number of helpful features in this regard: Small tank engine Large bunker could hide a Power Functions receiver Side tanks can cover up other Power Functions components And indeed, that's how the locomotive is laid out: Even so, the locomotive is quite cramped -- there wasn't enough room for an M-motor based transmission, so I went back to the trusty 9V gearmotor. The output shaft of the motor is very close to the driving axle: ... and it took me a couple tries before I found a good solution: The side tanks contain a channel that allows a cable to pass through, connecting the motor and receiver: The power button is on top of the smokebox and is only held in by gravity: Thank you for reading. Full Brickshelf gallery here.
  5. Rules: Every vehicle is powered with a standard AA batterybox and a single medium motor. Length or width shouldn't exceed 16 studs. Prizes are awarded for prettyness, originality, best crash, and fastest speed. In that order. Prizes in this case were won by eti, lucrichters, koffiemoc, and trijntje, In that order. Adapt rules as needed.
  6. brickbuilder711

    Updated PF CSX ES44AH Locomotives

    Lately I updated my CSX locomotives that I built back in 2014-2015. Since I perfected similar models with the Florida East Coast builds, I just took what I did and applied it to the models. Plus, I improved on where I placed my battery box making the engine much easier to operate! Here's video of me running it around my layout at Gold Coast Railroad Museum. I also threw in some model O Scale footage, perhaps for comparison Enjoy!
  7. RoxYourBlox

    MOC: Ferris Wheel

    flickr ~ "See you at Brickworld Chicago!"
  8. still working for 3 months into this moc, get some inspiration by the swith trick from the new 2017 blue tow truck, still lots things to do here, but each week i improove something, lets see where it will goes latest video: Thanks so much! Omar
  9. Hello everybody, here are my latest creations, two (almost similar) Swedish T44 Diesel locomotives. Base measures 8wide x L32studs, and body contains: -A medium PF motor in the rear compartment, that powers a decoupling system in rear boggie. -IR receiver in drivers cab. -Std PF battery box in the front compartment. -A std PF train motor takes care of propulsion. One channel on PF controller is used for decoupling, and the other channel is used for running the PF train motor. Coulor scheme is the former standard of SJ (Swedish state railways) as: Orange / White stripe / DkBlue top. T44 is (still) the most common freight diesel locomotive in Sweden and was originally built in 123 units. I made two units with same mechanics but slightly different detailing. I made several different designs for remote decoupling, but this one is more or less borrowed from Baard, which in turn was inspired by my previous attempts. The mini LA (linear actuator) moves the magnet in and out, thus separating the loco magnet from wagon magnet for a remote controlled shunting. Any comments are welcome as usual.
  10. Improved 42042 Crawler Crane. Banana Man for scale. It's hard for me to overstate how much I love the Technic Crawler Crane 42042. I've been constantly tinkering with it and making improvements since I got it about 6 months ago. My method is basically to lift heavier and heavier stuff until it falls over or something breaks. Then I rebuild. This is how it got to where you see it today. I don't really care about the tracks or the slewing. I want to lift heavier stuff, higher! So far my mod/improvement list reads like this: Upgraded the block & tackle harness for better mechanical advantage Added a quick-adjust system for efficient rigging changes to the harness, main hoist, and hook Beefed up gantry or A-frame: wider, taller, and much stronger Improved existing back hitch and added a second back hitch Counterweight box Strong, longer boom Paid almost (!)$20 for stupid Technic metal hook Integrated claw storage on gantry XL Motor upgrade Boom foot return damper thing Replaced LEGO string with synthetic cable (from Chin-a) Here it is in action. Read on for a more thorough description and photos of each mod/improvement. Click through on the photos to view them at larger sizes. Block & Tackle The first thing I did was add blocks to the block & tackle system allowing me to really turn up the mechanical advantage the motor has over the load when raising and lowering the boom. This of course comes at the cost of speed, but I'm OK with that. The nice thing about this is I don't have to actually use all the blocks. Quick Adjust Rigging on Harness and Main Hoist You can see my bright red and yellow-handled quick adjust axles with the red and yellow grips on the side of the harness assembly. This makes it easy to slip the rigging in and out of the blocks to fine tune my power/speed balance for the specific load. I also have these at the end of the boom and on the pulley so I can adjust the speed/power tradeoff on the hoist line. I added this quick disconnect system after I'd re-strung the rigging for the hundredth time. I can re-thread the rigging on both the harness and the main hoist line to go from "high gear" with max lift speed to "low gear" for max power in just a minute or two. (I had originally made these with axles that have stoppers on the end, but ended up using regular axles, because I have a ton of them.) A couple of timelapse (YouTube) videos of the quick change. Stronger & Wider Gantry The gantry in the stock model is really weak. It is wholly comprised of 4 Technic lift arms held in place with 6 friction pins. As I added heavier loads this system was quickly outgrown. I was bending lift arms and even popping the entire assembly off the superstructure. So I rebuilt. The new gantry is wider, allowing for more blocks in the harness. It is many times over more rigid and is taller, allowing the harness mount to be further back over the body, which in turn allows the main boom to be drawn up higher to a much steeper final angle. This piece took a long time and has been through the most revisions over the months. I did a lot of research by looking at other LEGO models, other and peoples crane MOCs. Both arms of this gantry are heavily inspired by the gantry on LEGO Crawler Crane 8288 (http://brickset.com/sets/8288-1), which I would love to own a copy of someday (not today). Improved Back Hitch The back hitch (the two black lift arms supporting the gantry) also quickly became insufficient. The anchor it was tied into was bending and getting stress cracks, so I created a stronger attachment system for it elsewhere. I also added a second back hitch that ties directly into the improved counterweight... Counterweight Box One of the challenges with cranes is counterweight. As the amount of load it can lift and move improves, their is a corresponding increase in risk of tipping. The original model cleverly uses the battery box mounted all the way at the back edge of the body. It's literally the furthest element from the tip of the boom. I added a weight box behind it that is open and easily filled with ballast of my choosing. C Batteries work extremely well because of their density and modularity. It has an open design so it's easy to adjust the weight on the fly as needed depending on the load and the angle of the boom. After building it, I added a the second back hitch directly attached to the gantry to remove stress from the body connection of the weight box and from the first front back hitch (heh). When the gantry starts carrying a lot of load, I don't know that the front hitch bears any at all. Stronger, Longer, Better Boom Maybe the most noticeable feature is the length of the new boom. The original is 30 studs long, not counting the butt and tip, with an optional section to extend it to 45 studs. This booms main section is 75 studs long. At this length, it had some really concerning droop/bending at full extension. However, I was also able to easily reconfigure the inner supporting structure to be much stronger since I didn't care about the ability to easily add and remove sections. I also added the outer white panels to help with rigidity as they span the weak links between the blue 15L lift arms that are the main defining component of the boom. The boom tip received an upgrade in the form of a smoother operating block and tackle system (with quick disconnect axle just like the harness) controlling the main hoist. I also added an aviation warning light, obviously the most complex and impressive mod thus far :) Main Hook/Claw Storage I purchased a Technic Large Metal Hook (http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=70644#T=P) for like $15. It's easily the most I've ever paid for a single LEGO piece. Considering the time I've spent on this model, though, I thought it was worth it. It's mounted to the main hoist with the smallest of my quick adjust rigging axles. I can attach the hook directly to something of course, or I can use it to hang the functional claw the system came with. When the claw is not in use, I have a storage peg for it that can be placed on either side of the gantry. I built this after I got tired of it sitting on the bench next to the crane most of the time. Much like the quick adjust rigging system, it's a simple mod that has a high convenience impact when moving this thing around for play, improvements, and storage. More Power (XL Motor upgrade) After removing the clutch gears and incrementally strengthening everything else to lift progressively heavier and heavier loads through probably hundreds of lifts at this point, the 9V Power Functions L Motor (99499) that came with the system finally died (predictably). To LEGO's credit, they're already shipping me another. They didn't even ask if it had been systematically subjected to increasing levels of abuse since purchase. Rather than wait for the replacement to arrive I hooked up an XL I had laying around. It's slower, but has more torque. As you can see it is mounted almost all the way at the front of the body, which is not ideal considering the weight. I may end up routing it further back if I can figure out a way to that looks this good. I did have to git rid of the ladder that was here on the original model, but this is Technic, so whatever. It's not like I'm bouncing minifigs around and doing voices when I play with the thing. Boom Return Damper/Helper If you increase the mechanical advantage of the harness too much, the boom has trouble releasing from very high angles. There just isn't enough weight to pull the cable off the spool on the base. I added this spring mechanism to the butt of the boom to help push it out when there is very little lateral load. I may be swapping these gray Technic springs out soon for the stronger yellow ones as it could be more effective. They will also look better matching the contrasting yellow parts of this assembly against the blue. Rigging Cable Through many rounds of adjusting and rebuilding I replaced the rigging cable several times. As I added to the superstructure more cable length was needed. Going down certain oaths and backtracking also had me replacing the cable with different lengths over and over. LEGO string is expensive, so I ended up buying a small spool of this stuff off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDIKURQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 after seeing it recommended elsewhere on these boards. It works well. It's thicker than LEGO string, so be aware, but it's also stronger and it has a bit of a metallic shine, so it looks more like the steel cable you'd see on the real life inspiration for this model. Conclusion That's about it. The major takeaway is that this thing can now lift 750 grams up off the floor below my bench and place it on the bench right next to it (from up to 80 cm away). Good stuff. I also think I retained most of the good looks of the original set. I'm not done tweaking yet, but I wanted to do this write up and show it off a bit before I break it again, because my next mod is likely going to happen in the gear box, if at all.
  11. Hi, This building is stuffed with power functions and lights, so please take a look at more pictures and movies on my flickr. Short movie: see here. More detailed shots (but poorer quality - I have some problems with camera): see here. I was inspired by special kind of nativity scenes called "Kraków szopka" (see here). However final result looks rather like "Gasthaus". I should mention that all elements are powered by one Lego motor. And they could be driven manually by one crank. And this is my first creation where Lego Technic parts (gears etc.) are doing their proper work (they are not used just for decorations).
  12. Hallo everybody, after reading all the time in this forum I want to introduce my not in all details finished Scania R730 6x2. For driving the Scania uses the Lego xl-motor. For steering the first and second achses I use the servo-motor. For the movement of the pistons in the fake v8-engine the Scania uses a l-motor. For all I use a rc! The batteriebox is in the back of the cabin, which I can lift. In the back of the Scania I installed an automatically closing clutch for trailer. Steffen
  13. Like a Rolling Brick

    [MOD] RC Mini Buggy

    Hi guys! This is my version of pg5200's Mini Buggy. I used the same chassis of the original one adding some minor changes to the bodywork, to make it more "pimped out". The front bullbar is the same of another model that is strictly related to this one, DesignJunkie58's Small RC Buggy. The model is run by a RC Motor with Servo for steering, both fueled by an AAA Battery Box. The IR Receiver is v2. I also tried a 1:1 gears ratio as shown in Piterx' Gearsbraker Sandrail, but the RC motor had the tendency to overheat. Anyway the problem doesn't happen with the 1:1.667 ratio. The buggy is small and very fun to play outside on a moderately dirty road. As I usually drive in my apartment, I put at the back the Old School 20x30 tyres, the rubber of which is harder and smoother. This way, when the RC motor runs fast and you steer, the back end gets loose on the floor and the model suddenly drifts...
  14. Lately I have broken down 3 standar motors, all because of the wires, all my MOCs are very small and the place for cables is always low. How often do you break the cables?, I think that my case is normal, 4 standar motors and 1 XL broken in 7 or 8 years always using the same motors MOC after MOC It's understandable.
  15. Brickshelf user "lukasz7792" has just posted an interesting comparison picture of an older & newer PF Polarity Switch. The one on the left has a black reversing switch and the one on the right does not. Does anyone know why it was omitted?
  16. Well, it's been more than a year since I started work on my last locomotive MOC, the China Railways QJ. Having built most of the practical engines (not too big for R40 curves) that I was visually interested in, I had to wait a bit before my interest was piqued again on the locomotive front. My inspiration came from running the QJ at most BayLUG meetings for the past year and change. The QJ isn't necessarily unreliable or difficult to set up, but it's still not very convenient: the model isn't that easy to move around or manipulate due to the size, the tender, and the number of fragile bits. The lengthy drivetrain with its fair amount of friction and torque also prevents the engine from generating smooth low-end torque. Finally, BayLUG still runs 9v at most of our shows, and the QJ can't easily be converted to run on 9v. So this is really my second locomotive to be born of functional requirements (the first was my U30B): 1. It should be easy to transport [from here to there] and move around [a layout] 2. It should be designed with robustness as a key feature 3. It should be easily convertible between PF and 9v operation 3b. The PF components should be easily removable (also helps with charging) 3a. It should run smoothly when pushed [by a 9v power car] Requirements 1 and 3 really insist that this engine be a large tank engine: for 1 I don't need to deal with a tender when transporting or moving and for 3 it needs to be big enough to fit all of the PF stuff. It actually took me quite a bit of time to zero in on the X-10-a as large tank engines are apparently pretty rare in the US and North America: it seems that even most of our branch line and shunting steam engines were tendered. But eventually I found a drawing and the work began! What I learned from the QJ is that if the weight of the loco is properly distributed, one powered (and tyred) axle is good enough to generate usable torque. From this notion I designed the chassis to have exactly that one powered axle, which I could easily remove to remove tyres and gearing for 9v operation. For the same reason, the driven axle isn't cranked either; in the QJ I would have had to remove all of the cranks and all of the wheels to access the tyres or gears. The lack of cranks on the driven axle also lets me keep the chassis articulated, which should help minimize rolling resistance for 9v operation (say compared to a 6-coupled flange-blind-flange configuration for the drivers). The drive rods are made using the half-pin in rod-track technique, and there's a bit of a hack: the connecting rods have to go around a corner due to the articulation, so the travel is longer than the usual three studs, and the connecting rods are both loosely pinned down and made of flex. As far as I can tell this arrangement doesn't add significant friction, probably because the corner is very small. The engine is designed to be powered with two M-motors, but I'm using the E-motor right now for the novelty. Unfortunately it wasn't quite possible to get as much weight as I would have liked over the driven axle: the battery box must go behind the boiler due to its height, and that really limits weight distribution options. The loose 9v motor in the front is simulating the weight of a second M-motor, and it helps bring the net weight over the driven axle to maybe 60 percent? Here you can also see how all the bits come out of the engine: almost all of the top surfaces are detachable. Whether this is convenient enough to fulfill requirement 3 remains to be seen. Construction of the body is actually very similar to that of the QJ: structural integrity is mainly provided by studs-out beams and everything else is studs up. Stickers are created at 300DPI and printed on 3M 3200-L mailing label material. This is a small detail, but it is actually one of my favorite parts, inspired by and stolen from 60052: And finally a video showing the locomotive running. The first 70 seconds is PF running and the last 20 seconds is 9v running. For PF running I'm using the AAA battery box with AAA Eneloops and the aforementioned E-motor. The E-motor is actually pretty neat: it has a wider dynamic range than the other PF motors and it is quite quiet as well. Sadly it is a little bit underpowered as well; I'm geared down 3:5 and you can still see it struggle a little in the corners during the PF segment. The 9v segment is a bit hazy, but we ran out of sunlight because DST. The engine is actually smoother than I would have guessed in the unpowered configuration: you can see how it basically doesn't lose *any* speed in the turns, and the regulator is only turned up to notch 3. Alright, I think that's all the commentary I have on this. There is as usual a full gallery if it ever gets moderated. There's a bunch of build and reference pics there that I didn't show. Have a nice day.
  17. Hi, a few months ago, I fulfilled a childhood's dream and bought the awesome set 5571 - Black Cat! I built it, looked at it and was happy. But then I got the Volvo L350F and was fascinated by the RC possibilities. I wondered if this would be possible with the Black Cat as well. I did a quick research but did not found someone who built it yet. So I definately HAD to do it The truck itself is very big, so there would be enough space for all components. A big hood, large free spaces in the chassis, ... But I wanted to integrate all Power Functions WITHOUT notice from outside. So there should be no modifications to the driver cabin or the Lego-built motor. The PF-Reciever needs visual contact. I don't like that and I couldn't find a suitable space where the reciever could fit as well. Therefore I switched to SBrick, which also workes burried deep inside the truck. All PF: 1 Servo 1 XL-Motor 1 battery box 1 SBrick 1 PF extension cable After a lot of trial and error I finally fit all PF inside the chasis! The servo sits directly on the steering. The full lock is a bit higher than on the original, so I had to remove the blue tiles. The XL-motor is located vertically beneath the bed. So between servo and XL there is a gap of less than 9 bricks which just enough for battery box and all cables. The SBrick sits on the battery box's top (1 plate beneath the truck's seats). It's ultra tight but works! I also added twin wheels on both rear axles. Have a look at the video here: A look inside: And the complete set on Flickr - Sebastian
  18. Dear Lego Fans, While at work, my colleges and I were talking about how awesome it would be to connect our work desks with a cargo train to haul post-it notes, candy and office utilities around our office. I offered to bring my old Lego train set and we set it up during our lunch break. It has really relighted my love for Lego trains! I got my first Lego set around 1999/2000 with the blue and white Lego Railway Express (Set 4561). Being a kid at that time, I could not afford much Lego. I got a few track-packs and switches and intersections. I also bought a Santa Fe engine and one of the cars with it. I've stopped playing with lego all together roundabout 2006/2007 when the first RC train sets were released and 9V systems were retired. It's been 10 years since I last got my train set out and now being an adult with money on my hands, I really feel like getting back into the Lego trains that I so dearly loved as a child. I'm now faced with a few problems since the 9V system is no longer available. For one I know very little to nothing about the new train sets. I'm wondering wether it's worth buying a new train set or not, which train set to get, or just lurk around eBay to see if someone might want to sell their old 9V system. I'm thinking of building a new, larger layout in my basement once I bring home my train set from the office. As far as I know, all the rolling stock will work fine on the new rails and the new trains run fine on the 9V track. so to conclude, here's a list of questions I have: - Are there any train sets out right now that I should get? - Are there any train sets coming out in the near future that are worth waiting for? - Should I not care about the new train systems at all and check eBay frequently for old 9V sets? If anyone is interested, I will post some pictures of our little office-cargo-train thank you in advance!
  19. hello, made a lil video showing a minifig next my models to compare scale, this weekend i will make a good video and share here my submarine, thanks!
  20. hello, im selling all my legos, need some money so i will keep my mocs, so i builded a huge one, to use all parts that could be nice to put in use into a future moc its a pre ww2 based plane, i already put the wip step into another topic, here i will put the final version, if you guys have ideas to improve, you all are welcome! Video: Pics: PB214220 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224235 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224237 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224226 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224227 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224228 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224229 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224230 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224231 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224232 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB224233 by Omar Dib, no Flickr
  21. hello!! people ask me for put pics from my ferrari, here i will show my cars ferrari f50, f1 race car, and my mad max rc power functions dodge my ferrari its for just showing, not for play or put motors the f1 i build the chassis to carry buggy motor and pf stufs, but im out of money so i decided to make a non motorised version and my dodge that im using 3 train power functions motors, its very fast, take more than 10km thats it i hope you like it guys!!!! pics: PB134257 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134255 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134253 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134262 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134261 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134260 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134259 by Omar Dib, no Flickr PB134258 by Omar Dib, no Flickr
  22. dr_spock

    Cat Train Rail Car

    Presenting my self-propelled rail car for cat lovers. Cat Train Rail Car by dr_spock_888, on Flickr The idea is have something that may be of interest to the young female audience at our LUG's public display events. I seem to have some boxcab fan influence in my toy design exercise.
  23. hello!!! my new moc, still wip, 3 days of work, im a lil bit tired, the plane already take form, need to fit flaps, interior and some other stufs, heres the video!! my submarine getting small hahaha working radial engine into plane Thanks!!!
  24. - The Dead are alive - "007 Spectre" opening scene anyone ? Día de Muertos celebrations are taking place in Mexico at this time of the year. I have always liked their atmosphere and aesthetics, and the way they honor the memory of lost relatives and friends in a colorful an joyful way. (yes, I do have a sweet spot for The Book of Life and Grim Fandango too) This is my best attempt at creating a float that could take part into the parade. I wanted motion, as much of it as possible. So it has : forward / backward moving legs / arms / head spinning platform (subtly) dancing mariachi All movements are linked together, speed is adjusted with the remote control. It also includes lights, because the parade does not stop at night ! Powered by : 1 M-motor - 3 PF lights - 1 IR receiver - 1 PF speed remote control - 1 PF AAA battery box (88000) + black light to enhance the night shots Please enjoy ! Link to the video (could not embed it, sorry) : El Dia de Muertos by autoreverse, on Flickr and a few stills : Thank you for passing by ! [First contribution by the way, after years of delightful lurking. Yay !]
  25. Here comes something powerful, duel motor, 4x4... IMG_0374 by JJ2Sam, on Flickr Video and description coming soon... Look at post #10