That_LEGO_Guy
-
Content Count
85 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Posts posted by That_LEGO_Guy
-
-
I thought that I may be useful to someone to share my recent discovery: a 3rd party replacement for pneumatic tubing. I needed different lengths and didn't want to cut up genuine parts. I bought the Black tubing just to test the quality and it is indistinguishable from LEGO tubing, it bends the same, kinks at the same angle, the colour is identical although had a bit of an odour before washing it in soapy water. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2x4-Food-Grade-Silicone-Tube-Hose-Pipe-ID-2mm-OD-4mm-New-High-Quality/1000003854079.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.262.YZY9zN
I also found grey tubing, the only listing for it at the correct size for LEGO (2mm ID x 4mm OD ) but I have not bought it as it's 10m
what are peoples opinion on 3rd party pneumatic tubing? I've seen people using clear and some yellow in builds.
-
I've tried 2 together with a power puller tire over them, defiantly not recommended as they stretched them a little but the 2.2 inch I've tried(sorry no pic) stuck on perfect,
I've got a set of rock crawler tires with foam insert on a single drill part, they work great.
All 3 wheel configs( power-puller and 2.2 inch on 2 drill part, and 1.8 on single drill) dragged a 10kg dumbbell. As the drill part has a ring gear built into the back you can drive that (16 tooth gives a 1/3 reduction) instead of the axle the wheel sits on allowing you to make the hubs a little stronger, more compact, turn it into a quick portal axle or just to have a hub cap that doesn't rotate with the wheel, might look good on a super-car.
-
I was in the same position a while ago, bit the bullet and paid $300 for 8466 great set, i'd recommend you buy all the parts off bricklink and replace the wheels with the next size down.
I'd really like to get my hands on an Arocs or Williams F1, but I feel my dark ages are approaching, need money for a more powerfull pc for work and uni.
-
Broken 3 M motors 2 Xl motors and 2 receivers, I pulled part 1 of each and exposed the power wires on all the motors and the issue seems to be the connector always the connector never the actual part.I'd prefer if they stayed with the old 9v era connector , too bad I wasn't around for it. managed to fix 1 but removed the connector from one of the receivers and wired it up to a 12v battery charger to get some use testing things while building, seems to withstand it ok, but never run for more than a minute.
-
I've been tinkering with pneumatics for the last few days and the sizes of the pre cut tubing is very annoying, it's rarely the size you want or the quantity needed. Im yet to go at it with a pair of scissors and cut the longer lengths like what used to happen with 8455 and others. im wondering what your solution to the problem is: do you find a 3rd party tubing substitute, where do you get it? Do you buy extra long lengths then cut to size or build around the sizes you have.
-
-
I was actually fiddling around with something the would function the same as that front drive unit of the Kress hauler, might give it a go after i finished my Morgan 3 wheeler
-
Done, it increases variable 'speed' if 'speed' is less than 100 and sets Motor "a" power to speed, then it runs motor "a" at 100 power( so the variable 'speed' never goes over 100). Download for the program
Edit: re-read the question and realized it's not what you wanted, so I re-wrote it. Top loop, increases 'speed' by 1 each time touch sensor in port 1 is pressed, middle loop sets motor speed to variable 'speed', bottom reduces 'speed' by 1 each time touch sensor in port 2 is pressed Download for new program. so to change the speed just write variable 'speed' to something hope this helps.
-
well ima bit rusty in mindstorms and I don't have it near me. but , working from memory, I think you need to make loop, then within the loop put the variable then a math block then the motor. now set the math block to add 1, drag the "=" wire to the motor power and to the variable and If im not forgeting something, it should work
-
Is there a real chance of winning something ?
and what kind of thing is given ? Is this a little set ? or an exclusive ?
If anyone won it, could he (she) tell us. thanks !
that's the exact reason I started this topic, I went through the 6 sets I've bought this year and did the surveys for them the other day so maybe I'll be lucky, if it runs on chance
I don't think they'd be exclusive or there'd be more info out there about "Survey exclusive sets" still would be cool if it were true
.I agree about the kid always, annoyed me, even when we were about the same age, maybe I was just jealous, he got to work for LEGO and I didn't
-
Was that the thing with the WIN! kid on the back?
Indeed it is, they've changed the kid to a minifig now but I believe it remains the same survey
-
For as long as I can remember LEGO instructions have had a message on the back about the a survey and how you can win LEGO sets by completing it, when I was younger we didn't have internet so I was unable to fill them out. Now only recently I've started to do them.
I'm wondering if anyone else fills them out? or have you ever won anything from them?
-
BusterHaus it is as if the receiver continues until told to stop/change speed and if the remote gets out of sight the motors keep running at the last speed.
-
, I say it can be done, maybe use the Znap flexible axles and keep the motors in the main chassis or use an NXT/EV3 motor direct to the wheels, motorcycle would be best I think. -
Well I gave it a go and got to page 8 until I needed a part I didn't have, didn't realise there was such a big difference between the instructions of now and 15 years ago, anyway I lined up my 8466 wheels to where they'd be when it's done as i noticed in pictures the completed set sits with the suspension arms horizontal: It has a bit over 3 bricks of ground clearance, not bad.
Aparently I'm not allowed to use the image format on this community so here's a link
Also googled Apocalyptic F1 and found this Mad Max Lotus
maybe get it battle ready and enter it as a Bandit vehicle :P
-
Started looking around on rebrickable to see what I can build or almost build and noticed I've got 90% of the 2 big F1 cars 8461 and 8458, as the tires aren't cheap I'm wondering what they'd look like with the tires of 8466 as they use the same rims and I have them. Would anyone be kind enough to swap the wheels and take a few pictures for me or link me to some?
-
awesome Hot rod the motto should be "Toe's your car faster that your car could drive"
-
-
Getting back to lego after about a year and re-started the unimog with 3rd party tires, bigger, thinner better grip and more realistic that the hallowed Power Puller wheels( it can still use them will be for for soft ground work like snow if I ever get a chance to see snow
)So it has the same specs as the original that was never finished, the axles are similar, a bit wider and stronger, but the front no longer has realistic caster angle like the original, needed room for the steering motor and it's LEGO so it's too slow for it to have an impact.
Well here it is:
After a LEGO direct order came I decided to re try at the unimog and update the axles, I now had enough for 3 axles so why not.
I dropped the Red and Grey things as they were too soft and widened the axles a bit, puse got some rc crawler tires for it meant to get 4 but got 8
.
After seeing it at this size it seemed it's off roading ability would be compromised ( turning circle about 2.5m) by the extra length and weight plus any of the U900/U1100 that had 3 axles where still 4x4 so I dropped the 3rd axle and remade everything from scratch, not that there was much there anyway, the torque tube, diff lock and thing that replaces the panhard rod are built with the same concepts or are almost identical, it's just held together better now and I have traded caster angle for ackerman steering.(What's in the first picture and the following)
I decided I'd try for a brick build cab instead of technic as I have never done that, but as it would look lame in the grey of the 10188 death star I had to resort to LDD, all 4 doors open and the bonnet, nothing inside yet. As the 3rd party tires are larger that any in LDD I had to replicate them with tracks, 25 to be exact.
I was wondering what it's size would be if it was next to 8110, thank you to Tore M for building it in LDD and putting it in the LDD forum.
As the cab needs to be built in LDD I'm building this in tandem, both in real bricks minus cab and in LDD if you want the ldd file.
-
seems a bit tricky at that scale, am I right that it's these wheels
I think steering and drive would be rather difficult that small, maybe have the front axle(s) non-driven, that would be a lot easier. Or set it up as skid steer, left wheels connected to one motor, right to the other, but I think someone has done that already. have a look at Sariel's model scaler for some help with the scale, it's rather useful. -
wow it's been 4 days since the last post, has a picture been seen and due to it's contents being so incredible you have all been elevated to a higher dimension?
anywho, going what was previously said and all the info of the real Merc truck, the suspension seems to be a large selling point of the truck but it seems the set speculations already make it complex enough to be on par with other flagships, but then what Paul said about the wheel arches being rather high, I'm unsure
, I hope it's true but it seems unlikely either way it's still great set 
, just hope I can afford it 
-
Not every set came with metallic silver, mine came with light grey, considering this, it's still one of my top 5
Not my picture but shows the grey version
-
'tis beautiful, makes me want to pull out my old Bionicles, never knew that mask came out in trans-green.
-
a good idea would be to put gear reduction after the diff
Unimog
in LEGO Town
Posted
Though I'd re-try my attempt at small scale suspension and I think I've succeeded; it's strong, small and can be small enough for use with 55982 wheels and tires the elastic bands used are not lego but are 5x5 studs similar to part x90
The axles are portals, just like the real truck.
The cab and tray are connected by 4 studs, enough to hold them on but few enough for them to be removable
The cab bonnet and doors open revealing the interior, 4 gear sticks and the engine.
The elastic bands allow for a fair bit of articulation.
A video of the Suspension on flickr, not sure how to embed it: https://flic.kr/p/29n1ZCJ
The loader connects to the protruding chassis by clicking the bricks to the bottom
Then the 1x1 tech brick to the top and siding the locking axle through
I have a few ideas for more attachments/modules; longer chassis, 4 door cab, a crane, back hoe