2GodBDGlory

Eurobricks Dukes
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Posts posted by 2GodBDGlory

  1. Posted

    So, I was just watching this RacingBrick video on this car:

    In it, he's talking about the way in which the steering wheel is misaligned, and uses this example to show that it can't be fixed naturally:

    400x315.png

    I guess what I want to point out is that it is correct that the wheel can't ever be properly aligned, but at the same time, there is a way to build it that allows it to be significantly closer to center.

    Built like in that picture, the result is an offset of 22.5 degrees, but by misaligning the 12T gear by one tooth, we can make the axle offset by 30 degrees, and then counter-offset it with the 8T gears' -22.5 degrees, for a net offset of 7.5 degrees, like this:

    640x480.jpg

    640x853.jpg

    Does this check out?
    (Also, note that if the model was using a 16T pinion gear, it would be possible to offset it exactly 22.5 degrees to perfectly counteract the 8Ts 22.5 degrees. That's not possible here, though)

  2. Posted

    My favorite would probably have to be the 42043 Mercedes-Benz Arocs. For one thing, it was my first real Technic set, so there's lots of nostalgia there, but it's also just such a functional model, with fancy steering, a solid piston-engine drivetrain, full suspension, a function selecting gearbox, and four pneumatic functions! It's also just got so many specialized pieces that it's got a lot of potential for rebuilding

  5. Posted

    On 2/21/2024 at 4:11 PM, Aurorasaurus said:

    No objections, I'm excited!

    Great!

    On 2/22/2024 at 12:52 AM, Saruzeufel said:

    Sounds great!
    As a suggestion for topics: maybe construct them in the way "build X but with/without Y" and then draw random topics for things to build (car, truck, construction vehicle, mechanism, etc.) and then a constraint added to it (with at least 3 axles, without using black pieces, with at least one mechanical function beyond steering and driving, etc.). This way the topic can be something everyone understands without beeing too generic (aka. boring) for the more advanced builders. Additionally they would be highly reusable for future challenges without having to come up with completely new things every time.

    Ooh, that's an interesting idea! You'd have to be careful to make sure that the randomly selected parameters made decent sense, but it could work nicely! It would kind of require restarting the list, though, so I'm thinking I might not incorporate it this time, at least.

    On 2/22/2024 at 2:36 AM, Jundis said:

    Here are some other ideas to throw in the pot:

    - Monochromatic: Build only in 1 colour (except tires, axles and pins)

    - Polybag-scale: Recreate an official model with under 150 parts (video or digital model for approvement)

    - Tracked: Come up with a model on tracks

    Thanks! I've added the polybag option to the list, but the other two both sound like they could end up excluding builders who don't have enough parts in one color, or just don't have track parts. That wouldn't really be a problem for a traditional contest, since people just wouldn't participate, but it would suck for someone to set aside time to do this, and then draw a topic that they simply can't complete.

    On 2/22/2024 at 3:23 AM, msk6003 said:

    More simpler version of previous TC will interesting too.

    Like
    TC13 pull back - Limited only car. Just like TLG's pullback model.

    TC18 small car / TC19 motorcycle - Tire limit will much smaller

    Thanks!

    I've added both motorcycles and the TC18 car to the list of ideas, though I think it's fine to allow them to be full-size, since larger models don't necessarily take longer than smaller ones. The pullback theme is good too, but I decided to exclude it for the same reason I mentioned above: not everybody has pullback motors, so it could limit the pool a bit.

    41 minutes ago, letsbuild said:

    I'm down! TC18 rules are right up my alley for a challenge, but anything car related works for me.

    Starts at 3pm my time, so I'll ask to get off work early for the contest.

    Glad to hear it! TC18 has been added--I'd actually be quite happy if it got drawn, since I joined the forum just too late to participate in that contest!

     

    One idea of my own that I added to the list is a three-wheeled vehicle, which sounds like it could bring up some interesting options!

  6. Posted

    Nice to see that they're making those again! That'll be nicer than the tan ones we've had lately

    4 minutes ago, R0Sch said:

    Why is this such great news? We still have no recolor for 3L and axle-pins w/ friction and seems the red and yellow axles get increasingly used instead of black and lbg.

    Eh, I wouldn't say it's all that great, since it's not a super commonly used part, and tan wasn't even the most egregious color, but it's still nice to see!

  8. Posted

    3 minutes ago, Stereo said:

    Main one I see is a part for 90 degree offsets in the crank.  Like what you'd get by gluing two 2L thin liftarms together in a + shape.  A new rod piece that's more standard (half stud thick pinhole at the crank end, towball other end.) could be useful outside of engines too.  Or even take it a step farther, make 3L and 4L "rod" parts with pinholes at both ends, and use a half pin as a wristpin in a new piston piece...

    Yeah, something like the joiner parts here would be quite nice to achieve more realistic firing orders!657d58303022bd7a596648bbc9c5ba24_display

    Image from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3517791

    I should probably print some of those next time I build an engine that would require such a crank pattern...

  9. Posted

    33 minutes ago, XTN said:

    From my experience, it is important that a feature works safely and reliably. If a mechanism is so fragile that you have to constantly stand next to your kids, explain to them what they can and can't do, and if you have to constantly repair it, then it's not fun to play

    Yep, agreed! I would like to point out, though, that fun playability isn't the only reason to build Technic. When I build, the goal is to have fun building and engineering interesting mechanisms, and playability is almost irrelevant, since I'll take it apart within days of completion anyways. It's certainly worthwhile and valid to build simpler, more durable, more playable models that kids can enjoy (And it's not easy, either! I can build way more complex than TLG does, but I'd have a hard time matching them, or many other MOC builders, in terms of durability!), but there are other enjoyable ways to build--none right or wrong! :thumbup: 

  12. Posted · Edited by 2GodBDGlory

    1 hour ago, JesseNight said:

    Normally embedded Youtube videos auto play in either of these cases:

    1) The embed code contains 'autoplay=1', forcing it to auto play for everybody. I can confirm this not being the case because they do not auto play for me.

    2) The embed code containing 'allow="autoplay"', in which case it takes over the setting each user has for their own Youtube account. In this case autoplay is a flip switch that can be turned off at the bottom section of the player (that's defaulted to on afaik).

    Of course there might be other scenarios with custom browsers or plugins, can't say much about this.

    @2GodBDGlory Maybe you accidentally clicked that auto play flip switch at the bottom of the player some time? It's happened to me before (and had me searching for a while) :wink:

    Huh, that autoplay toggle suggestion sounded very reasonable, but it doesn't seem to have changed anything. Oh well, it'll quite possibly just go away on its own eventually!

    Thanks

  13. Posted

    This looks like a reasonable thread to post this in...

    Just yesterday I noticed that embedded YouTube videos on here started auto-playing when I opened the thread. I've been playing around with it, and it seems somewhat inconsistent, but most of the time videos will just start playing when I scroll over them, especially if I haven't viewed them before.

    I'm finding it pretty annoying to have to pause them all the time when I'm not interested in them, especially if I don't want audio going on in my surroundings!

    Has anyone else had this happening? Any idea if it's a change or bug on the forum end, or if something's changed for me on the YouTube side?

  15. Posted · Edited by 2GodBDGlory

    Alright, I think we're at the point where nothing will happen unless I'm decisive and choose something, so I'll just pick a day:

    The official date for the first trial run will be the weekend of March 8 to 10 (Unless people are vocal about preferring a different time)

    The challenge will run for 48 hours, starting at 10:00 PM, GMT, on March 8th, and ending at 10:00 PM, GMT, on March 10. I think this is a good compromise for people in all time zones, with far westerners and far easterners both losing a similar number of weekend hours, and people in less extreme time zones having all 48 hours within their time off. For a few example time ranges from areas with large proportions of Eurobricks users:

     GMT-8, (Pacific Time in North America) would be 2 PM Fri to 2 PM Sun

    GMT-5, (Eastern Time in North America) would be 5 PM Fri to 5 PM Sun

    GMT+1 (Continental Western Europe) would be 11 PM Fri to 11 PM Sun

    GMT+9 (Central Australia [Wait, you're actually GMT+9.5? That's weird]; Korea; Japan) would be 7 AM Sat to 7 AM Mon

    GMT+12 (New Zealand) would be 10 AM Sat to 10 AM Mon

    I don't think any of these are too absurd, so that should be a good time to plan on. If you live in a time zone not in my examples, you should be able to figure it out easily based on an online time zone map.

    Topics aren't finalized yet, but here's a couple options pulled from earlier in the thread [EDIT: Now some from later in the thread too] that sound workable to me:

    • A vehicle with at least three axles
    • An alternate model for any set
    • >150 part "polybag" model
    • TC18-style car
    • Motorcycle
    • Three-wheeled vehicle

    I'll be taking more suggestions for topics over the next few weeks to build a final list (Or fleshing it out myself if there aren't too many ideas), and then the final topic will be randomly chosen from the list and revealed at the start of the challenge!

     

    Any major objections to this plan?

  17. Posted

    1 hour ago, 1gor said:

    Well, I have several of those parts, but how to make it stiff enough for motorized MOC?

    This is what I was thinking of:

    640x480.jpg

    It's not quite in system, because these parts can't snap down quite far enough onto the hubs towballs, but it certainly works well enough for a builder with loose standards like me!

    I haven't tried that in a motorized model, so it's hard to say how well it would hold up, but here's a reinforced version I threw together:

    640x480.jpg

    640x480.jpg

  22. Posted · Edited by 2GodBDGlory

    [EDIT] This might not be such a great idea; I tried it, but it doesn't seem to have a proper amperage output, so motors stall easily, causing the battery to squeal a bit. I'll be going back to the original battery

    Not much action on here, but today I got thinking that an easy performance upgrade to do to this hub would be to drop in a USB-rechargeable 9V lithium battery, like one of these, to up voltage from 7.4 to 9.0.

    https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08D925V8H?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

    I think all you'd have to do would be solder a 9V battery plate (scavenged from an old alkaline 9V, most likely) to a couple Dupont jumper wires with a female end, and then plug that into the correct spots on the original internal wire. I'm not sure what would happen if you tried charging it from the normal port, and I certainly wouldn't try it, so unless you want to unscrew the battery box every time, I'd also recommend cutting a hole in the side of the case to allow for charging the 9V battery off of its USB port.

    It wouldn't be a huge power jump, but I think it could easily be worth the effort, especially if you already have this type of 9V battery just lying around, and it wouldn't even have to be permanent (other than the hole in the side of the case), since you could always drop the original battery back in.

    Thoughts?

    On 10/19/2023 at 8:55 AM, DKTechnik said:

    I see nobody write in this old topic , but if someone experiment with this two controllers with battery change mod to 11,1V please write .

    My desire is to buy one of the two models, but to make it run on a 11.1V battery.

    Which of the two models do you think is better?

    From the research I did, it was concluded that 10V was about the safe maximum for these to run at, and 11.1V would burn it out, unfortunately

  24. Posted

    After looking at the poll, it looks like doing a 48-hour challenge is the most popular option, and it sounds like the majority would be willing to do something soon, so I think we should try to choose a weekend, figure out the details, and then see how it goes to decide how any future challenges could be changed.

    What weekend should we aim for? The weekend of March 8-10 is probably about as early as we'd want to do, but other than that, I may not be free until April 5-7, though weekends after that would likely work

    Also, we'll need to start getting a shortlist of possible topics to choose from at the time

    Let me know what you're thinking!

  25. Posted · Edited by 2GodBDGlory

    Very cool! I really appreciated PyBricks support for the Lego Train remote, but an Xbox controller would be far superior! The main catch for me is that PU motors still aren't powerful enough to make the most of this fine control, but it's a very neat option!

    Two clarifications, though:

    1. The controller support is fully compatible with the Python interface, not just the block one, right?

    2. Only Xbox controllers can be used, not generic Bluetooth ones, right?

    [Heads over to Ebay looking for cheap previous-generation Xbox controller auctions...]