justinwebb
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Posts posted by justinwebb
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3 hours ago, IHadMegaBloksAsAKid said:Is it possible to cut out that big bulky thing in the middle of the lights and join the wires back together?
Looks to be a switch and probably other circuitry to identify it as a light. Not sure if you can run it without it until someone gives it a shot.
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I lucked out and got a LEGO crossover for 20 bucks on eBay, it was sold as missing parts which was 2 yellow switches. Bought that as fast as I could. I recently bought a 3D printer as well and never thought about trying my own track parts. Might give it a shot
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It will run on anything that has Apple iOS 10 or above. Which is iPhone 5 and up and tons of iPads one of which came out in 2012 so not sure what you are on about with only 2017.
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9 hours ago, legotownlinz said:I hope it is a re-release of the double crossing.
I would like this as well, although I did snag one the other day on eBay for 20 bucks as the person didn’t know what they had.
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I cut the wire as normally there is a ton left over in the cab so it helps hide and I flip the 2 middle wires to reverse polarity.
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I built an identical end to the main engine and have a battery box and motor on the other end. They are on the same channel so I just point it in the general direction of both and it works 95% of the time. I have 6 carriages and one club car so it’s a large train.
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24 minutes ago, PasDeChocolat said:Coaster,
When will the production restart? Is the delay impacting non metal orders?
Coaster isn’t with ME models, he owns brick tracks which is different from me models.
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8 hours ago, Younge said:I'm currently working on building the Santa Fe carriages (10022) in light bluish grey (have already completed the engine - 10020 - in LBG) and I am just waiting on the last couple of Bricklink orders to arrive.
I believe I have made significant savings by building in LBG as the parts in that color are more prevalent in Bricklink. I have also saved money by ordering enough parts for two carriages at the same time.
I am planning on posting my completed train on here once its built.
BTW, the stickers will be the trickiest part I believe.
I’m just getting the stickers from ministickers, far cheaper and look amazing.
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Looks like a great start! I love GP10's so it will be great to see it done. Almost went to paducah for the eclipse a month ago, ended up going to hopkinsville instead though.
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4 hours ago, Vilhelm22 said:Does anybody yet know what the trains of 2018 will be yet? Also, will there be a station (the WV station I think makes this more unlikely) and anything else for that matter?
If there was info you would see it here, there is none
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4 hours ago, Younge said:Out of curiosity, what OS would you be running to get your software to work on a Pi?
Raspbian was mentioned further up and is the most widely used.
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Anyone ever used a LiPo battery that wasn't the lego box? I've been looking for a small battery to fit in some MOC's and the battery box's are far too large. There are some smaller 7.4v batteries out there that might work and just wire on the lego plug to the receiver. Hoping others might have tried this and have a battery that is small and works well as there are tons out there.
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1 hour ago, fireball77 said:How about making the inside of the train car it the buffet car. And also please make a more streamlined amtrak locomotive
The last post was 2 years ago...... and why don't you make one instead of telling someone else to make one?
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3 hours ago, PicnicBasketSam said:I would like to point out that this started on Thursday, and thus people would have been in at work the next day. Although, it's quite possible that more than one day (Friday) would be needed to clear this thing up, which would explain why nobody seems to know when it will be fixed.
I have a guess that someone triggered the "send update" button early and the LDD people immediately disabled web access to the program so an incomplete software update didn't get sent out, and they're going to leave the internet connectivity like that until it's finished enough to be released.
As a software dev myself, that isn't a thing and doesn't work that way.
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I take the wire going to the motor and simply cut it and strip the wires and reverse the two inner wires and use heat shrink tubing to ensure its a good insulated connection. It frees up room in the trains since i dont need a polarity switch.
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Its been in stock in the US for almost a month, i ordered 5 a few weeks ago and it still shows in stock
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The two middle wires of the 4 conductor cable is the motor control. The outer 2 wires are not used in the motor.
That's what i thought, just wanted to make sure I didn't short something out. Thank you sir for the help!
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I bought a used set and the wiring on the train motor was ripped out it looks like, does anyone know where the wires went on the inside of the motor? I used my torx bit to take it apart but cant find a guide to which of the 4 wires go where. I see 2 contacts I can solder new wires onto but where do the other 2 connect?
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Not without lots of modification to the battery pack as you would need to introduce a charging circuit with protection. If you aren't experienced in this I would suggest against it as exploding batteries aren't much fun.
Rechargeable batteries for powered up hubs
in LEGO Train Tech
Posted
Eneloops are some of the best batteries and I’ve never had an issue charging them with the Panasonic smart charger they ship with. It shuts down when fully charged and does each cell individually. The mah is close to what they claim