ecmo47

Eurobricks Knights
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About ecmo47

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  1. Building BMR Freight cars

    Yes, It is possible. Insulated 10 gauge wire fits the Lego clips quite well. I like use bare 10g wire inside 3mm rigid hose because the wire can slide inside the tube so when you bend it back around to the beginning, the bare wire can slip inside the start of the 3mm tube. If you use a black piece of insulated wire, you will have butt ends that will not look as finished.
  2. Building BMR Freight cars

    Forgot to add this tidbit. Order some of these new parts for your trucks, You will know where they go!
  3. Building BMR Freight cars

    Is that what the N&W roundel design is called? Makes sense!
  4. Building BMR Freight cars

    The holidays are over and it's time to get back to doing some building! I've got some projects in the works but thought to update a couple things. I've been tweaking my trucks. I had built a bunch of trucks based on the plans in PS-1 boxcar. I was never very impressed with their "rolly-ness" and was glad when Cale explained in a post above why they switched designs. The design included in the Premium instructions after the boxcar are more solid and do tend to roll better but do require individual attention to ensure that nothing is rubbing up against the wheels. I did glue the wheels to the axles which I find necessary. I first used Gorilla Brand super glue which was not good. It would film up all nearby Lego surfaces. I switched to a drop of Krazy brand glue. (Yes, the real-world inspiration for Kragle.) Here is a poor picture of the trucks: The one on the left is the original design. You can see how the 1x2 technic bricks are not supported as good as they could be that could lead to the binding of the axle. The middle truck is the new design and on the right is a slight modifiecation of the newer design. I shorten the 2x6 plate (LBG in the center truck) by one stud so that it would clear the boxcar under-carriage better. One thing that is possible with the newer design is that you can make the 6L tube holding the bearing boxes one plate-width higher. It cheese wedge is still not exactly centered on the middle of the wheel but at least it doesn't look like it's dragging on the rails anymore. I haven't check to see if this added height causes binding issues on any of the current BMR models. Last but not least for now is this kinda new addition to the fleet. I've had the car built for a while but just got it lettered with some sweet transfers from legoman666. He sell this design and a couple others. I had him make a set of customs decals for another car that I'm working on and could not be happier with the experience. VERY reasonable priced for the custom work.
  5. Building BMR Freight cars

    Not really. Many of the small detail parts (4085,4081, 6019 48336) do not exist in Dark Green or Olive. Best bet would be to build it in one of the grays and high-light with greens as desired. Haven't check tan yet.
  6. How did you get the tree truck to curve? You need to tile the stairs. That will help the step distance on the top step. Very interesting build!
  7. Building BMR Freight cars

    Got a couple dozers mostly finished. I say "mostly" since I only have one pair of treads as my Brickmania order has not arrived yet. Nice little build as per usual. I made a few modifications to account for parts I didn't have and changes that I wanted to make. I didnt have any of part #20482 (Tile with pin holder) in black that made up the head-lights. (Didn't like the gold ones.) I used the below combinations of parts: I also revamped the blade lift mechanism to better represent the triangle lift arm that is characteristic of the D4. Last, but not least, I added one 1x1 black tile to the 1x1 w/clip that represented the engine cooling fan. It just made that little sub-assemble a little more solid. Here they are tied down to a flat. These cats are not factory-fresh as the paint has already been rubbed off the blades! Here is a picture of the BMR family so far: I've got plans for two more box cars and need to get designing my own Rio Grande caboose with that cool Bright light Orange color scheme. A BMR Facebook post hinted an eastern road caboose is in the works for 2018. Next up will be upgrading my trucks as several sets do not roll as freely as they should.
  8. Building BMR Freight cars

    Thanks for the information and insight. Frankly, I don't know how you guys accomplish all that you do (and in the time that you do it) with the website, train shows, Premium kits, decal design etc, etc. You guys are certainly multi-talented! I need to go back and tweek my trucks. Many of them do not roll as freely as I think that they should and it may be the binding that you described. I'm going to rebuild a few to the new design and see if they operate better.
  9. Building BMR Freight cars

    Well, I still have not got around to writing a review for the hoppers so it will be a jump straight to the 4th BMR Premium offering: the AAR 53 foot flatcar. The BMR guys did a nice video preview of the kit which you can view here: As the guys discuss in the video, this kit is unique in that you get two sets of instructions of the price of one. The kit contains instructions for the flat car, a separate instruction book for the D-4 cat, 4 wheel sets to make 2 sets of trucks, and a packet of Brickmania tread links for one dozer. Along with the instructions, BMR is offering 8 sets of decals to cover 4 different body colors. I have not tackled the D-4 yet so this post will just cover the flat car. The instructions continue to improve with each and every release. This one has more pictures, more diagrams, and building tip photos. The instructions follow the same format established with the PS-1 boxcar: Contents page, introduction letter, history with photos and diagrams, blueprint of the completed model, building steps, notes on color and parts substitutions, and a parts list. It is a very well polished product. Of the 4 BMR offering, the 53 foot flat car has the lowest parts count (409) and is the simplest build. Of that part count, 25% (108 pieces) are used for the trucks alone. The basic frame is standard "studs-up" construction and the side panels are "studs-on-the-side" sub-assemblies held in place by eight part #2436 1x2-1x4 brackets. I had several pre-built sets of trucks and so I only had to find the 300ish pieces for each the flatcar body. I was able to round up enough parts to build two cars: one in black and lettered for my favorite rail line, the D&RGW, and the other a modified Dark Red version lettered for the Milwaukee Road. There is not much to talk about in regards to the build. A bulk of the frame is built during the first two steps. The next 4 pages cover the side panels. This step was a little fussy as there are a lot of parts laid out that do not get tied together until later steps. After struggling through the first one, I built the successive ones from one end to the other which I found much easier. After installing the 2 side panels to the mere eight studs of connection points, the decking is installed which ties both parts together very well. The instructions note that you can use a wide variety of muted colors for the deck. I used Light Blue Grey as that was what I had on hand and like the contrast with the darker body color. The next couple pages cover finishing the spine and installing brake cylinders. I found a small error on page 16, step 9. I had to use two 1x1 round plates to attach the 1x1 brick with stud on the side (part #87087) to the underside of the decking. The instructions show only one on this spot. Maybe I just didn't install it right. The last step is constructing the trucks. The trucks are the same as the last two models (hopper and tanker). I'm still using the truck design from the boxcar instructions. BMR has not explained the design change but I suspect that it has to do with the pre-made wheel sets that they provide. In the old design, you could not install some of the needed Technic pins without detaching one of the glued-on wheels from the axle. This is not a problem with the new design. Lastly, on page 18, they provide some photos an how to install those pesky 3mm tubes to the mini-fig hands used to simulate the brake lines. I had not cracked the code on how to do this so was glad to see this building technique. One note on the parts list. For this model, the BMR guys decided to make the entire under-carriage the same "body" color. Perhaps this is the way the prototypes were but I found it unnecessary and made everything black except the exposed color parts. This reduces the "body-color" parts down to a small handful for tiles and a few other parts. From a previous building project, part #2436 (1x2 to 1x4 bracket) is scarce in reddish-brown and plentiful in black. I may make a my own "body color" parts list and post it here. Here is the shorter list of body color parts if you make the under body all black: Per the photo's, I used BMR's D&RGW and Milwaukee road decals. They are of the same excellent quality and a joy to install. There is no room for error though and the lettering is exactly one tile width wide. You will have to trim all decals right to the top of the lettering to get them to install correctly. One tip is to remove all of the 1x2 tiles that represent the stake pockets so you have the "under tile" area to maneuver your decal around in. The decals do fit in their designated areas (with careful trimming) but they seem like they are one font size too big. There is NO room for placement error. One change I would like to see is for a darker back ground on the white lettering decals. It sure would make the necessary trimming much easier. This is a relatively quick build and it will a lot of fun to see what additional flatcar loads that others come up with. BMR hinted that they may come out with another build of their own which would be welcome as always. In the mean time, I need to see if I can capture the pertinent details of the Allis Chalmers WD that my dad and grandfather used to farm with. Here is my 3mm rigid hose cutting guide. I'd recommend that you get three of 75c18 (Black)
  10. Building BMR Freight cars

    Here are my 5th and 6th boxcars. They are heavily modified from the PS-1 plan to account for part availability and the style I wanted to achieve. The 5th car is the Susie-Q car done in Dark Turquoise (DT). The inspiration for this car came from Cale Leiphart, who is one of the BMR team. He has a beautiful Pittsburgh and Lake Erie car that he displayed at Brickfair, VA. His build is significantly different as it uses a lot of 1x2 bricks to build the sides. I followed the basic design of the BMR plan and was able to use some DT 1x2x3 bricks and 2x8 Technic plates to good effect. The part pallet is pretty limited in DT and those that you do need are very hard to find in quantity. I originally built this as a 40 footer (32 studs long) but when I received the decals, the "Susquehanna" was too long to fit left of the door. I then re-built it 36 studs long which would give it a scale length of 45 feet. I briefly considered going a full 40 studs long which would equal 50 scale feet as the PS-1 did have a 50 foot version. This idea was abandoned after evaluating my very small pile of left over DT parts. I may, someday, give this model a DT roof as most of those parts (1x2 and 2x2 tiles, 1x2 grills) are available that color. The 6th car is this Rio Grande model. Having spent by youth in Denver, Colorado, the D&RGW has always been my favorite road and this cool orange/silver/black paint scheme was just begging for representation in my fleet. Due to decal size it is also a 36 stud car. The biggest departure from the BMR plan is the "sliding" door on each side. I wanted a continuous black line running across the car and the BMR plan does not accommodate that. The support for the door is a bunch of 1x1 and 1x2 bricks with studs on the sides to hold the 1x6 tiles. I should note here that I filed down some studs from the DGB door rail so that the roof tiles would sit flat. You can see in this picture that I need to do a little more filing! There are couple more boxcars that I may build. One is the DRGW "Cookie Box". The prototype is silver which I would represent with Light Blue Grey since I already have a white boxcar. The other is a lovely green and yellow Rutland boxcar. That wraps up boxcars for now. Next up will probably be a review of the hopper car instructions unless I jump straight to the flat car with is supposed to be out soon.
  11. [MOC] The EMPIRE STRIKES BACK - Rebel Fleet

    Well that wasn't as bad as I feared that it would be! I'm glad that they got in the "where credit is due" part. Surprising that they just highlighted the Neb-B and cut all the discussion of all the other ships. I'm also a little surprised at the low quality of the filming. (That was just my devices problem)
  12. Building BMR Freight cars

    Here is the 4th boxcar in my collection: Medium-Blue. This one departs from the exact BMR plan in several areas due to part availability. I'm not going to detail all of my modifications but here is a list of the parts that do not exist in Medium Blue (MB). 6134: Hinge Brick 2 x 2 Top Plate Thin 6636: Tile 1x6 (1x4 is the biggest MB tile) 3460: Plate 1x8 (1x6 plate is the longest in MB) 3832: Plate 1x10 (1x6 plate is the longest in MB) 3036: Plate 6x8 2454: Brick 1x2x5 (part #22886 1x2x3 Brick works well here) 32028: Plate 1x2 with slide rail. 30377: Part #30377 (Arm Mechanical, Battle Droid) This is the first car where I decided that, regardless of color, I was going to make all my door rails Dark Blue Gray. As noted above, the 1x2 plate with slide rail is not available in MB so that prompted the initial change. I found that DBG was a good color complement so used it for the various small detail parts. Initially the only MB car I could remember was the old "The Rock" design that appeared in the 1970's (I think). Later I was reminded of the RF&P boxcar (which is displayed in near-by Wilimington, NC) and was able to locate a set of decals for it. Once lettered, I was very happy with the results. It's a very eye-catching car.
  13. Building BMR Freight cars

    My second and third BMR builds were Reddish-Brown PS-1's which are probably the most common color for a boxcar. As is my normal procedure, I built the box car in LDD to generate a parts list for Bricklink. All of the white parts can translate directly to Reddish-Brown except for the eight of part #30377 (Arm Mechanical, Battle Droid) used for the stirrups. The closest colors they come in is Dark Orange or Dark Brown which is the color I used. The rigid tubing does come in Reddish-Brown under parts #'s 75c14/16/18/26 and 28. As is noted in several places, both 1x2 modified plates (#2540 and #48336) are a bit rare, expensive and hard to find in the quantity needed (36x#48336). You might want to consider switching to black which looks pretty good. I lettered one of my boxcars with Walthers O-Scale decals. I picked the NYNH&H for the interesting scroll-work logo. I have not lettered my second Reddish-Brown box yet in hopes that BMR will put out a nice set of decals. The Walthers ones are nice but I'm concered that they will not last very long and will flake off. I ginned these up to show what substituting black would look like. Having black running boards and/or roof helps it look natural and there are some prototypes out there that are painted like this.
  14. Increasing Speed

    ....and the gearing ratio. Can you post some pictures?
  15. Building BMR Freight cars

    Im going to back-track now and go take a look at BMR’s first offering, the Pullman PS-1 40ft Box car. I looked at Youtube and reviewed some of the speed build videos and a “review” of the box contents but I haven’t seen any actual reviews of the instructions or building techniques so hopefully this will fill that void. The PS-1 Premium Instructions were release on 16 June at Brickworld, Chicago and on the new BMR on-line store. The first 20 copies sold out quickly as did a second run of 40 sets I believe. I think that they are on their third run of these instructions and they are currently available at the BMR store for $30.00. I was thrilled to get a hold of a copy of the initial run. The contents of the kit have been well documented but in case you missed it, you get a printed instruction book and a small bag of parts which contained the preassembled axles with bearings and three small Brickarms pieces for the brake rigging. I initial thought it was supposed to include a set of decals, but I was incorrect. The instructions are a good first effort but there are a few issues. These issues may have been corrected in the later printings but many of the flaws have certainly been corrected in the subsequent hopper and tank car instructions. The instructions start with a brief history of the Pullman box car along with some proto-type photos. One thing I’ll note here is that the cover photo is not the actual model built by the instructions so use it carefully as a refence. The next page has some helpful construction notes. Ignore the spelling errors, the editing process has improved! The following pages (6-43) are the step-by-step building instructions. They are very clear and lead to a very frustration-free build. The last 2 pages, 44-45, are the parts list which is the weakest part of the instruction. The picture and quantities are clear but it does not include part numbers. This is not a big issue for seasoned MOC’ers (the target audience) but could be a real point of frustrations for new builders not familiar with Bricklink. As I have done with all my BMR builds, I reconstructed the boxcar in Lego Digital Designer (LDD) and made a Bricklink Wanted List out of it. The 850(ish) parts for this model in white will run you about $220 if you shop carefully. I’m going to take a minute and talk about 3mm rigid tubing. After scratching your head in puzzlement at what lengths you will need, remember to refer back to the last paragraph on page 5 for what lengths are needed although that paragraph does not include the four 6-studs and two 4-stud pieces for the trucks. One note here is that BMR uses the word “flex” tubing but all Bricklink descriptions of this part use the word “rigid” so that is what I will use. I did some research on length vs cost vs availability and determined that four of part #75c18 (Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 18L / 14.4cm, black) is the best one to order. You will also need one #75c18 in white. I made the following cutting diagram to assist with cutting the lengths you will need. Also, I made this simple cutting jig to get my lengths right. Just move the 1x3 to whatever length you need. A sharp utility blade will give you a nice clean cut. If your having to “saw” at it, change the blade. Ok, on with the build. This car is basically a “studs up” construction with a SNOT technique for the doors and end panels. Here are a few tips/improvements that I did. Page 8, step 7 and page 9, step 8: Can use three 6x10 plates here. Page 13, step 16 (and other spots): I found that some of my ends panels could come off easily so I went back and added more studs to hold them on. Per the below photo, I increased the holding studs from 4 to 9. Green denotes change from the original instructions. Page 15/16, step 20: I added a third bracket (part #2436, Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 4) to hang the doors on, I did this because the doors tended to “cave” inward with handling at the top as there is an unsupported space behind them. Page 29, step1. Per page 5, the 1x1 tile needs to be taped on as it will fall out very easily. I replaced the tile and stud jumper with a single 1x2 plate. Page 31/31. Install the hinge assembles for the roof and then install the tiles. You will never get the sub-assemble installed without wrecking it. Page 38. Don’t bother making the rigging sub-assemble. Install each part where is goes on the bottom of the box car. Page 39. Trucks. The trucks are what sets this build apart from other Lego train creations and makes it look like a real scale model. I used to be proud of my Santa Fe passenger train and now it just looks like a phony with its fake euro-style wheels. Back to the trucks. The BMR guys have changed the truck design when the hopper plans came out. I’m not sure why they did this. I had pre-assembled a bunch “boxcar” style trucks early on and have not needed to build any of the new style so I cannot compare them. The outward appearance is the same, but the internal construction is different. Since the axle/wheels/bearings come pre-assembled, you will not be able to install all the Technic pins listed on page 39. If you have un-assembled sets, you will notice that the axle does not fit very tightly in the Lego train wheel and will fall off quite easily. You will need to use a spot of super glue to keep them on. On page 40, I have not figured out how to get the rigid tubing over the minifig hand. I did not try very hard but it is not an easy process. The instructions have no hints or tips on how to accomplish this step. I added a 2x2 tile on top of the 6 exposed studs in front of the 1x4 tile. This locks the piece holding the magnet in place much better. Once I got my first set of trucks completed, I did not like how fragile and temperamental the claw piece (#48729) was. It must work on dozens of BMR cars but mine kept spronging off. I achieved the same effect with a couple #4081b (Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Light - Thick Ring) and part #30132 (Minifig, Weapon Gun, Pistol Revolver - Large Barrel). My last note about the trucks is that I found that the clip from the 1x1 plate holding the cheese slope often rubbed up against the wheel sets causing friction. I gave the rigid tubing a slight, banana shaped curve to hold the bearing boxes away from the wheels. I also used flat silver for the 1x1 round plates so that they would look like springs. Here is a photo of the completed PS-1 in white with the BMR stickers on it. I've wondered why they choose white as there are not too many actually prototypes in this color but I'd guess that it is because it was the color of their signature "billboard" car. They are considering releasing some additional decals sets for the PS-1 but nothing is firm yet. Since I've received the kit, I have built 6 boxcars and in 5 different color and created 11 different paint schemes in LDD. I will detail various color builds in later posts. I hope that this is informative and helpful to other BMR builders. Hope to see some others work posted here.