Eurobricks Vassals
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About freestorm

  • Birthday 11/12/77

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  1. Okay. I will post photos next time I'm going to my layout
  2. 2nd batch of my motors: black Type 3 25 6 red Type 1 27 0 red Type 1 16 0 red Type 2 25 2 black Type 3 49 8 black Type 1 29 0 red Type 3 39 3 black Type 4 25 8 black Type 3 44 5 black Type 4 22 8 black Type 3 37 3 red Type 3 34 3 red Type 3 02 3 black Type 1 35 0 black Type 3 36 8
  3. I think the 7750 was also sold in Austria and Switzerland, you can see the country list at the end of the catalog from 1982 On the sticker sheet you have the Swiss Rail logo " <-|-> "
  4. 1st motors batch: Black type 3: 10 4 Black type 4: 23 8 Red type 3: 30 3 I will check other motors next time I'm going to my layout place
  5. I found an ebay auction for the 12V catalog. We cannot see the copyright date on the 3th page, but the seller list as 1992
  6. Lego technic yellow train bridge from 1993 ad

    Hello, I rebuilt the bridge and made 2 new version (v3 and v3.1) For me the version 3.1 is going to be the final version and I'm waiting parts to build. I look closer to the original image and measured ration between parts, but it's hard because the image is in poor quality. I'm happy with the result :-) Now the arms \ / are joined to the bridge, you are not viewing the technic pin, because it's behind the center arms | | It's difficult to make in MlCAD , because of the geometry of all pieces, so don't look closer to the image, they is some bugs. Here you can view the same bridge, but the arms / \ are with technic bricks Some picture of the build version with some change, because of missing parts: - The bridge is red - The "legs" are shorter Brickshelf url (not yet public)
  7. Lego technic yellow train bridge from 1993 ad

    Yes it's true, I need to find the good ratio and angle between arms. I need some works to improve the version1
  8. Lego technic yellow train bridge from 1993 ad

    After spending hours on Google Image, I find this AD on Ebay. The release date is 1992. Large picture on my Brickshelf: I've done a first version, my version doesn't match the original version, it's difficult to see details. I will to some improvement
  9. Hi

    Can you tell us which 4.5 Battery box do you have? You can check on brickset: First, I will check the continuity of the cables with your multimeter I you don't know how to do it, this page can help: Sometime current batteries are not the same as they was in 80' I mean the size of the polarity plugs, not the size of the battery itself
  10. Try to make a new version of LEGO Train Poster

    @JopieK Tank you for the software, unfortunately LDD is not the best software to build old trains, because old parts are not available @BrickMusher Tanks for the forum 100steine, I will not start a new project and I will try to help this @tsi Thanks you for this webpage, I will follow it .
  11. Hello, I really like the train poster made by Jeroen De Haan (2003) What do you think if we try to make a complete version with all LEGO trains (maybe 4 posters: "Blue ERA", "Grey ERA", "9V ERA", "PF ERA") ? I'm working to make "Blue ERA" MLCAD files Someone have the knowledge to render a large poster from a MLCAD file? I tried to render from LDVIEW to POV-RAY, but the quality is very poor (I don't know how to render a very large model with good zoom and quality) PS: sorry for my English, I speak/write English like a Swiss-French cow..
  12. 12v UP SW10 set prototype recreation

    If you want to use only 80's parts, you can try with 1x2x2 shutter. With only 3 shutters Of course the white parts need to be yellow.
  13. How to fix? 12 Volt remote - Button gets stuck

    If you open it, can take pictures? It will be nice to know how it work inside. For you problem, I bet for the button spring.
  14. How to fix? 12 Volt remote - Button gets stuck

    If you need to open it, this thread can help you. It's not the same button, but maybe you can open it the same way.
  15. Wow, it look great I like the option to interconnect every switches like 12V buttons. Maybe it will better to put the 9V power supply on the right of the power brick, so you can put buttons closer the tracks. Or you can use a 90deg power connector As far as I have 12V and 9V on the same layout, I will be happy to have a "4Dbrix Module" that listen a 12V button (+-12V) to command a 9V Switch. So with the same 12V switch you can command 12V switch and 9V 4Dbrix switch. PS: sorry for my bad English...