JM1971 Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 Something I notice is the lego motors are either full on or full off and this makes models look jerky. Maybe if it took a couple of seconds to get to full speed and the same when stopping it would smooth everything out, also it would put less stress on gears. Quote
Zerobricks Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 If the model is so bady designed that full power damages gears, than you did something wrong... Quote
AndyCW Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 I tried the train remote coupled with hockey springs to create proportional control with self centering, but the springs didn't always return the controller to the idle position. The plus side was that I created a standard two stick controller in the process. Sounded like a great idea, but implementation was poor at best. v/r Andy Quote
DrJB Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 Speed/train remote... +1 ... ALL remotes issued with the Technic sets are either on or off. To have gradual accel/decel, you need to use the remotes found in the train sets. Quote
JM1971 Posted January 20, 2014 Author Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) That train controller is awful lol. I'm thinking something with much more finesse, I'm not having problems with gears or anything its just an idea I had to make stuff look realistic. http://www.wisdompage.com/SEUhtmDOCS/3SE3.htm Edited January 20, 2014 by JM1971 Quote
Zerobricks Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 Something like a mix of the normal and train control? isnt there an option for that in PF protocol? Quote
AndyCW Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 The only non train controller solution is to depart from Lego and go proper RC hobby grade components. Even the RC Lego stuff was not proportional. v/r Andy Quote
DrJB Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Well then, at the other extreme, you may want to mimic what happens in real life, with real vehicle ... A CVT + Constant Power Curve (power=torque×RPM). While some of this is 'feasible' (with clutch gear that limits torque), most likely would require a 'large' build. Edited January 20, 2014 by DrJB Quote
BrianZ Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 I'm really surprised at how poorly the speed remote works. It doesn't seem like it would have been tough to make it return to center. Are there not more Lego car and truck builders than train folks? I ended up building my own system, and it works way better, for the same price as the IR system. Quote
JTS Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 I was wondering if anyone has made a spring loaded trigger mechanism to attach to the train remote. I want the desired effect to be something like the Scalextric controls. Quote
peter_m Posted January 20, 2014 Posted January 20, 2014 (edited) Something I notice is the lego motors are either full on or full off and this makes models look jerky. Maybe if it took a couple of seconds to get to full speed and the same when stopping it would smooth everything out, also it would put less stress on gears. EV3 and it's servos... .NET API offers a method to turn a motor with given speed so I guess official software might have the same option. Then you can gradually increase the speed from 0 to MAX. Edited January 20, 2014 by peter_m Quote
clarkdef Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 The only non train controller solution is to depart from Lego and go proper RC hobby grade components. Even the RC Lego stuff was not proportional. v/r Andy Yes it does, it has 3 stages of accel. gearboxes are silly pared with electric motors, you just got different stages of jerky xD Quote
AndyCW Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Oh wow. I was wrong. Thanks. Gearboxes work with electric motors if you need different amounts of wheel torque for different scenarios. Crawling and cruising. v/r Andy Quote
Dans lego Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) If the model was heavy enough you could use a friction clutch .. or a torque converter type mechanism ... I may have a solution of my own .. I'll post some phot os as soon as I can of my possible solution Edited January 21, 2014 by Dans lego Quote
Rockbrick Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) what you need is a Centrifugal Clutch - above a certain revrange it bites below or at idle nothing... Edited January 21, 2014 by Rockbrick Quote
Jim Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 Recently I created this topic about Motor Coasting. I guess it pretty much deals with the same question. Quote
JM1971 Posted January 21, 2014 Author Posted January 21, 2014 (edited) There is something called a 'soft start', my dad used to work in a crane factory and told me its done electronically and is necessary on cranes. Hopefully I can splice up a lego extension cable and build a circuit in between, this would work with all my sets more easily without modifying them. Using something mehacnical like the clutch will wear over time, and something like a flywheel would strain the motor. Found this, havent a clue if it works with 8 volts. Edited January 21, 2014 by JM1971 Quote
kevman Posted January 21, 2014 Posted January 21, 2014 I'm really surprised at how poorly the speed remote works. It doesn't seem like it would have been tough to make it return to center. Are there not more Lego car and truck builders than train folks? I ended up building my own system, and it works way better, for the same price as the IR system. If you are ever interested in selling that kind of system let me know! Quote
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