captainmib Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 Looking forward to more of your awesome work! Keep it up. I'm not a car designer, so I can't help with usefull input, though the remark of this being used as swashplate for helicopters was nice. Maybe you can render an example of it too. Quote
Thirdwigg Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 I agree with it the hub needing to be 5 studs high. It has to mount to the chassis, and the height of the first render seems between 5 and 6. I love what you came up with though, it seems to address many of the issues we have with current hubs from TLG. The wheels look great. Quote
Alasdair Ryan Posted January 22, 2014 Posted January 22, 2014 (edited) I found a web company in America that makes a injection mold attachment for a beach drill. Link Edited January 22, 2014 by Alasdair Ryan Quote
nicjasno Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) I found a web company in America that makes a injection mold attachment for a beach drill. Link That doesn't help at all. Making the die for the mold is the expensive part. Edited January 23, 2014 by nicjasno Quote
efferman Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) why not simply use the adaptor part to use 3/6hole rims with the 8880 steering part? Edited January 23, 2014 by efferman Quote
Cumulonimbus Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) Injection moulding is indeed an expensive process. My job is currently designing injection moulded components. Mould prices for even simple parts can cost between €10.000 and €30.000. This is the reason why this process is only applied for mass-produced (at least 50.000 units) to make it economically viable. A more interesting process might be vacuum-casting. in this process, a component is 3D printed, then a flexible mould is made from this model. In this mould a casting is made with a 2K material (for example Poly Urethane). The mould is good for about 30 runs and a new mould can easily be made with the printed model. Additionally, tricky engineering such as tolerances, draft angles and thermal management related to injection moulding can be avoided. I've used this method to produce prototypes, and the level of detail, rigidity, and accuracy are very good. However, because this mainly a manual process, it's not exactly cheap. Edited January 23, 2014 by Cumulonimbus Quote
nicjasno Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 efferman: the 8880 steering part is useless. It's flimsy and allows only double wishbone suspension setups with no kingpin. The point of this new hub is to allow basically ALL suspension types, with or without advanced angles. Having ball joints molded to the hub is wrong. Quote
Boxerlego Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 The only big issue I see with this is the ball joints and I have several bionicle ball joints and some are very loose and some are very tight. What is your preferences on ball joints here. I think a redesign on the ball joints is needed to ensure a consistent quality of performance here. I like the CV joint. I got that part and I thought about using that part too. Quote
allanp Posted January 23, 2014 Posted January 23, 2014 Loose or tight, doesn't really matter as long as it's not so loose that there is unwanted movement and not so tight that it cannot move. There is quite a wide range in between which all bionicle ball joints fit into in my personal experience. Quote
nicjasno Posted January 23, 2014 Author Posted January 23, 2014 (edited) The bionicle balls will fit much better in those sockets than they do in the bionicle sockets. Also, as long as there is no slack (and i have yet to meet a bionicle joint with slack), it's all ok. Edited January 23, 2014 by nicjasno Quote
Boxerlego Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 I would like to see more ideas that could be implemented here. I think the universal wheel hub is great idea to start with. It's probably the best way to work out all the unseen problems that are ahead. Though to be fair, the wheel hub will probably be specialized part with a limited outside application. To incorporate every suspension setup in one simple design would need to incorporate a building guide to show all what you can do and how to build it the right way and that is why I think another approach on the ball joints is needed here, not only to ensure a consistent quality of performance from design to design, it will also further improve upon the form and function here. Quote
nicjasno Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) You're complicating. Ball joints on a hub are wrong and instantly limit the use of the part. There's also nothing wrong with a part that can be used only as a hub (see the small 42000 hubs or the unimog portal hubs). If we're doing this, we make a hub that can be used in all future super cars for decades to come. Every supercar can employ a different suspension type, but with the same hub. The instant you put ball joints on the hub, you limit it to a double wishbone setup with fixed vertical kingpin (like on 8880 and all other lego hubs). And don't forget that one can make a much better F1 car or any other racing car with this (yes, i have ideas) :P Edited January 24, 2014 by nicjasno Quote
allanp Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 Agreed. How's the 5 tall version coming? Quote
nicjasno Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 Currently the mods are in my head only. The main issue is having only 1 axle hole as attachment on every side. Perfect to attach connectors for multilink setups, but not so good for attaching a macpherson strut, since i think it'll be too weak. Another requirement is, that the hub must be symetrical. Quote
skppo Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 4-way symmetry like the larger one or just single (vertical) axis? Do you have an idea how to do a MacPherson setup with these? Usually the problem is the lego springs though... Quote
nicjasno Posted January 24, 2014 Author Posted January 24, 2014 I have ideas how to make macphersons (there's even a video on my youtube). I need to get my hands on some of those adjustable motorbike springs to see how those can be used. I plan to use them in the e-coupe. Quote
clarkdef Posted January 24, 2014 Posted January 24, 2014 Needs wheel bearings! But nah, awesome hub I would buy that for sure, a scaled down equally as qualified hub would be nice too. Quote
nicjasno Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 Ok, so here's the second prototype. Changes include a narrower stator, so that the entire stator is now 1 stud wide. The holes for the bionicle joints have also been moved 1/2 down, so that the distance is now 5 studs. I'm not sure how to mount the upper elevated wishbone. Open to suggestions how to attach to the stator. An issue is also the clearance from the tire, which is a hairs width. Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) What about moving the + holes also half a stud deeper to the bearing, but than you can only use one + hole... Edited February 2, 2014 by Zblj Quote
nicjasno Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 The problem is, that with only one hole, an elevated wishbone will be very wobly. Quote
Zerobricks Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 You can ease the problem by making the attachments full stud wide, not just half. Quote
nicjasno Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 That would take up too much space, be too big/heavy and the bionicle balls won't be able to click in them. Quote
SNIPE Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 nice design, how tight would the bio'nicle parts be in the sockets? wouldn't the outer '+' hub be better if it didn't have the bit sticking out in the middle center as I like having the hub practically inside of the wheel so it is closer to the pivot of the CV joint Quote
nicjasno Posted February 2, 2014 Author Posted February 2, 2014 What outer + hub? The bionicle sockets would be pretty tight. I would actually be more worried that they would be too tight to get the balls inside, than them popping out. Quote
SNIPE Posted February 2, 2014 Posted February 2, 2014 (edited) In the first picture there's a bit sticking out around the center hole, it looks like it was removed now though so it should be easier to mount, if you take a tiny bit off the ball sockets it should be slacker for the steering. are you selling any of these? The lip round the middle hole Edited February 2, 2014 by SNIPE Quote
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