New Prototype Crawler Axle

[z3_2drive]

I like your idea! But I'm keeping mine...if I even finish. Need to make a BL order, and I've had my eyes on this for a while...

[pint14]

Im prety sure that the 2 speed gearbox isnt strong enough for this crawler.

[z3_2drive]

Im prety sure that the 2 speed gearbox isnt strong enough for this crawler.

What do you mean by that? I'm sure it is-the LA keeps the driving ring in place solidly...

[AndyCW]

Im prety sure that the 2 speed gearbox isnt strong enough for this crawler.

I used that exact same gearbox on a 2 rc buggy motor crawler. The gear casing may be different and may cause problems, but the overall gear interchange and selection between the two 5292 outputs works fine in crawler applications. All that needs to be done is a method that stops the driving ring from slipping out of the idler gear and a mini LA should do the job once the structure is solid.

v/r

Andy

[z3_2drive]

Well I'm back with huge progress. I had a bit of time yesterday after winning some races on DiRT3 and got to work on figuring out the extremely tricky link mounts on the chassis for the front end-One being the 1/2 stud offset going on in some spots and Two being the mini LA getting in the way. But after some trial and error yesterday and today I finally got it perfect, along with improving the entire structure. I also added the front axle which I completed last week when my BL orders arrived. Now I need to strengthen the upper level of the chassis, figure out steering, and find a place to put my two batteries. Pics:

^just look at how many times I had to work out the offsets...the main superstructure is compact but I bet it will be a pain to take apart, I made sure to use as many '3l pin with bushing ends' as I could so dis-assembly would be easier.

^the bottom of the chassis turned out neat and sturdy.

^perfect example of how tight a fit everything was with the LA on the side...

^not as much articulation as I would like but this is because there is a limited amount of up/down travel because the middle of each of the u-joints in the chassis ends are directly underneath buggy motors, so If the shocks compressed any further then the u-joints would pop out.

^a nice fit, no rubbing between chassis and tire. *While taking photos I saw that I had not placed the bottom links on the front axle wide enough apart:

But it was an easy fix:

Enjoy and wish me luck with the rest of the build!

[Alasdair Ryan]

I am guessing how you have just temporary attached the steering racks like that for the moment?

[z3_2drive]

I am guessing how you have just temporary attached the steering racks like that for the moment?

yes I'm going to be working on the steering this week

[AndyCW]

I ran into the same problem with the driveshafts and the bottom of the 5292 motors. I turned the motors around 180 degrees. The enabled me to shorten the gearbox and to use the "L" shape of the motors to reinforce the upper chassis/shock mount area. Shortening the gearbox is what allowed me to avoid the driveshaft interference.

Looks good.

Why a PF Large to shift instead of a Med?

v/r

Andy

[timslegos]

That prototype looks fast! On a side note, can I buy one of your 10 volt battery boxes?

tim

[z3_2drive]

I ran into the same problem with the driveshafts and the bottom of the 5292 motors. I turned the motors around 180 degrees. The enabled me to shorten the gearbox and to use the "L" shape of the motors to reinforce the upper chassis/shock mount area. Shortening the gearbox is what allowed me to avoid the driveshaft interference.

Looks good.

Why a PF Large to shift instead of a Med?

v/r

Andy

I used it because of the simple mounting method but will probably change it

That prototype looks fast! On a side note, can I buy one of your 10 volt battery boxes?

tim

I've been meaning to make a topic about this concerning how they were made and what is required to charge them once you have it. More details might be shown there. For now it's a maybe.

[Technyk32231]

Here is a custom universal joint.....

There are two types of toggle joint smooth and toothed.

That universal joint won't work. That joint only allows one degree of freedom, and a regular universal joint has three degrees of freedom.

[Doc_Brown]

This is looking really awesome! Great job, can't wait to see it in action. :thumbup:

[z3_2drive]

eh, I've pretty much finished and to sum it up it has similar performance to AndyCW's KOTH crawler. It really could've used a lower ration for first gear. I'll make a pic of the steering and now I will begin taking apart the chassis to get at those buggy motors, so I can have a shot at my next rc project- a small fast car hopefully with suspension :)

Edited May 11, 2013 by z3_2drive

[Someonenamedjon]

That universal joint won't work. That joint only allows one degree of freedom, and a regular universal joint has three degrees of freedom.

This type is only used for one degree...

[AndyCW]

I ran my crawlwer at 7.4 vdc yours should have had much more power. You are right 9:1 low gear wasn't enough for some obstacles considering the weight and other functions. I simpler, lighter, version might make do with 9:1. I too have been trying to scale down the crawler to make the most out of the power of the motors.

I just built a custom 9.6 vdc battery pack and need to butcher some PF cables and integrate it into my crawler. Smaller, lighter, and more powerfull. Yee haw!!

v/r

Andy

[MrNumbskull13]

*BUMP*

Sorry about that. ^^

But I am wondering what ever happened to this beast? ;D I haven't seen any videos yet! :(