thekoRngear Posted Wednesday at 04:59 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 04:59 AM Big Update: Guys! We have slayed the beast! No more rolling resistance! No spread out/toe (or tow) out! The wheels just don't want to spread even if I push my finger slightly towards them. I assembled the whole chassis and the car moves just as fine as it moves backward; feels totally natural. Sadly, we cannot declare victory just yet. @Zerobricks @gyenesvi This happens. If I gently steer it still happens. My heart sinks. I think there was another reason why Lego used anything but with 3L underneath the gear rack. There is big empty space in between I used a black 5L beam with different orientation just for testing and it, just say, works. I have 2x 5L flipflop beams. And also 2 pairs of 5L lift-arms. I have detached the front chassis before one final modification finalization. This is the top view. When differential is mounted challenge increases. Howevr, I will have no problem keeping the car RWD as did the 2F2F movie guys. That will be a defeat tho' This will be the final version when everything is hopefully [properly] assembled including always on AWD. So guys, help me out one final time to mitigate the slack inside the gear rack movement! Quote
gyenesvi Posted Wednesday at 08:14 AM Posted Wednesday at 08:14 AM 3 hours ago, thekoRngear said: So guys, help me out one final time to mitigate the slack inside the gear rack movement! So what's wrong with the 5L liftarm that you put there? Or you could just attach it rotated to face the rack. Or you could just use 5L thin liftarms with axle hole ends, that should be easier to attach to the vertical assembly with longer axles. Or just 4L thin liftarms if the 5L is in the way at the top. Or I think this piece will fit right in there :) Just put it with the axle hole end downwards so that the edge does not get caught up in the 7L flip-flop beam. By the way, I can see that you are using a Cada 7L flip-flop beam? Use a proper Lego one in this case!!! The difference is that the Lego one does not have those U shaped cutouts with all those edges, so it won't get caught up in all nearby edges that you put there as limiters! The Cada ones are bad in this respect. Quote
thekoRngear Posted Wednesday at 08:20 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 08:20 AM Okay, I will try with all the options above. Luckily I have some 7L Lego Flipflops. Though they are in DBG, I am gunna use them! Quote
Zerobricks Posted Wednesday at 08:32 AM Posted Wednesday at 08:32 AM I would have used a 5x7 frame in the leftover space to reinforce the suspension AND support the fake engine. Or a couple of flip flop L beams. Quote
thekoRngear Posted Wednesday at 09:10 AM Author Posted Wednesday at 09:10 AM 33 minutes ago, Zerobricks said: I would have used a 5x7 frame in the leftover space to reinforce the suspension AND support the fake engine. Or a couple of flip flop L beams. Noted! And thanks all. The steering problem is fixed as I settled with leftover #6536 perpendicular connector. No need for 5L lift-arms or the 3L ones as they look a bit occupied. The whole chassis with front diff, steering, crankshaft AND Engine pistons moves smoothly 🙏🏻 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.