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Posted (edited)

Thought about the Ford Bronco Ultra 4 4400 (the ones around 2020-2021 especially) and I couldn`t miss the opportunity to do a better (and more powerful) one on this chassis.

So here it is the new bodywork (also W.I.P.).

I couldn`t made this body-work without some inspiration from this ; sadly, the project in the video was heavily modified by its creator and now it uses Power Up electronics and has a completely different body-work - still good, but I prefer the buggy motors and the style of the first body-work.

LWR%20TEST%20RENDER%20BRONCO%20B.W..png

Edited by Lixander
Posted

When using  XL motors, I recomend using 24 tooth gears to transmit drive and to use shorter axles as possible (due to very high torque); example instead of axle 8, use 4 axles 2 studs long connected with axle joiners like that one 

Posted (edited)
29 minutes ago, 1gor said:

When using  XL motors, I recomend using 24 tooth gears to transmit drive and to use shorter axles as possible (due to very high torque); example instead of axle 8, use 4 axles 2 studs long connected with axle joiners like that one 

Thanks !

Edited by Lixander
Posted
16 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Thanks !

This is my solution (but I use reduction hubs), and this is when XL (coupled) motors are installed

...and it runs very smooth...

Posted
22 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I see. There are 2x XL motors there?

Yes, they are coupled and upgeared with gears 40 tooth (red) on both sides to gear 24 tooth (between vertical 5 x 11 H frames

Posted
15 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Yes, they are coupled and upgeared with gears 40 tooth (red) on both sides to gear 24 tooth (between vertical 5 x 11 H frames

Oke. Thanks for telling me !

Posted
1 minute ago, 1gor said:

I post soner or later in my tread what I make...perhaps there could be something useful to you...

Might be. I followed the topic to see further updates anyway ;)

Posted
4 minutes ago, Lixander said:

Might be. I followed the topic to see further updates anyway ;)

Well, they won't be so soon because I need 3 stronger CV joints from Zetros to enable sliding axles and shorter CV jlint axles from Audi to continue work...

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, 1gor said:

Well, they won't be so soon because I need 3 stronger CV joints from Zetros to enable sliding axles and shorter CV jlint axles from Audi to continue work...

That doesn't sound so good, because the new parts for a new set, as the Audi RS Q E-tron, are pretty rare and expensive for some months after it is released.

So, good luck!

Edited by Lixander
Posted
27 minutes ago, Lixander said:

That doesn't sound so good, because the new parts for a new set, as the Audi RS Q E-tron, are pretty rare and expensive for some months after it is released.

So, good luck!

I know; parts from Zetros are available, but I need 2 (at least) shorter CV joints axle

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, 1gor said:

I know; parts from Zetros are available, but I need 2 (at least) shorter CV joints axle

You can also get the set, if you really want them now, but that isn`t pretty cheap either :/ (at least in here). 

Edited by Lixander
Posted
1 hour ago, Lixander said:

You can also get the set, if you really want them now, but that isn`t pretty cheap either :/ (at least in here). 

It is also extremelly expensive here and I don't need PU...

Posted (edited)
21 minutes ago, 1gor said:

It is also extremelly expensive here and I don't need PU...

I see :/

You have to wait some months then ://

Also: ”I don` need PU”.........I totally agree :)

Edited by Lixander
Posted
9 hours ago, 1gor said:

I know; parts from Zetros are available, but I need 2 (at least) shorter CV joints axle

Long CV joints + hacksaw?

That's what I'd do (and plan on doing), but I know that's not everyone's preference!

Posted
5 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Long CV joints + hacksaw?

That's what I'd do (and plan on doing), but I know that's not everyone's preference!

Sounds like castration...

Posted
4 minutes ago, Lixander said:

What do you mean by ”hacksaw”?

 

He meant that it would be cheaper for me to cut existing one by one stud on axle side...

Posted
19 minutes ago, 1gor said:

He meant that it would be cheaper for me to cut existing one by one stud on axle side...

I understand now :/

Posted (edited)

Despite this new variant seems completely different, except the tires, it uses about 60% of the chassis of the Flat baja-truck. This is a Lego Technic recreation of the pretty new RC kit of Tamiya - the BBX BB-01 (I know, it is a pretty strange name).
It has the same things as the last version of the baja-truck (that is 1x servo and 1x buggy motor), but has full independent suspension on all wheels and at rear it uses 2x 9.5L hard shock absorbers instead of 4x 6.5L hard shock absorbers, for mimicking the trailing-arm rear suspension of the original Tamiya model.
I tried also to ”copy” some of the chassis frame too, especially the tube-frame.
This will need more hours to correct all the connections (Studio has a lot of bugs :/ ) and even more hours to determine if everything is really ok, because I am aware that some connections will not ”work” in real-life, others are wrongly connected or the sizes are wrong etc.
S1-%20Screenshot%202023-08-19%20201005.pS2-%20Screenshot%202023-08-19%20201025.p

S3-%20Screenshot%202023-08-19%20205428.pREF.-%20Screenshot%202023-08-19%20205113

Edited by Lixander
Posted

It looks quite accurate. I would like to see the diagonal metal beams (last photo with the real thing) that are on the side of the car. It could be done with 6L LBG beams quite nicely as they make a perfect triangle. Keep it up fratello ;)

Posted
26 minutes ago, Alex Ilea said:

It looks quite accurate. I would like to see the diagonal metal beams (last photo with the real thing) that are on the side of the car. It could be done with 6L LBG beams quite nicely as they make a perfect triangle. Keep it up fratello ;)

Thanks :))

I will try to put the 6L links on the side. Thanks a lot for the advice!

Posted (edited)

One of my main concerns for now for the Technic BBX BB-01 is the rear suspension.

I want to make a real trailing-arm suspension; I think I managed to succeed, but I had to modify the side-bars.
About the side-bars - thanks @Alex Ilea for the advice with the 6L link, but any link or even beam/ lift-arm would look pretty thick; I would keep in mind this solution though.

Anyway, I am not sure what to do: keep the first suspension that only mimics the trailing arm suspension type (LEFT WHEEL) or use a functional trailing arm suspension (RIGHT WHEEL) that might make the model too wide at the back (that means that the front suspension arms might need to be also modified, along with the steering rack)?

Screenshot%202023-08-20%20144353.pngScreenshot%202023-08-20%20144409.png

Screenshot%202023-08-20%20142716.png

Screenshot%202023-08-20%20142654.png

Edited by Lixander

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