Brunojj1's mind-opener - red supercar - free instructions now available for static version

[BrickBuildingFox]

On 10/28/2020 at 2:33 PM, Bartybum said:

CaDA has chosen not to release instructions, because that's their business model for these supercars.

CaDA has a major part of their instructions available on their official website: http://en.doubleeagle-group.com/cada/list.php?pid=108&ty=25

Maybe in future, they will upload the ones for @brunojj1 great model as well...

[Bartybum]

Yeah I saw that a while back, but couldn't be bothered informing the group here lol

[XenoRad]

I finally finished mine. It looks and feels really good, congratulations to Bruno.

The building process was easy enough, no major problems. It only got a bit repetitive at one point building the chassis, but otherwise it went smoothly enough.

I like that there are not many stickers and Cada does tell you right at the end where they go so it's easier if you don't put them during the build. I also like that they put all pins in the same box and it's only a few bags to open. That way you get them all from the start and you can organize them.

Regarding the quality of the bricks there's some good and some not so good. In general the beams and panels are just as good as Lego. Most pins are the same quality wise but the pins with axles have grip problems more times than I'd like and generally they don't hold that well. There are many spares so I didn't have too much trouble mixing and matching them, but I had to use the red 2L pins with axles from Lego to hold the mirrors more securely,otherwise they'd just turn downwards quickly.

I leave you with a few pictures of the finished build.

 

 

 

 

These are the spares that I got. I did the fixes so some extra parts are from there, but there's plenty anyway. From what I've seen the two black and the one red panel in the middle are expected, so are the two triangular flat beams and most pins.

But I'm not sure about the black pin with two cross-axles beam to the left of the black panels.  For some of you guys who have already finished it - does this look right in terms of leftover parts?

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 27, 2020 by XenoRad

[astyanax]

@XenoRad Nice, good to see you closed the hood properly!  But perhaps you should check the #13/#14 panels on the rear "wing" -- I think they're supposed to sit lower, flush with the rest.

[XenoRad]

@astyanax Thanks. The beams to which the panels were attached were not pinned down properly. It's all corrected now.

This is exactly why after I finish a model I gave it a few passes before considering it complete. No matter how careful you are during the build there's always at least one thing that's not properly tied down, whether you didn't tie it down in the first place, or it popped out at later steps.

Edited November 27, 2020 by XenoRad

[JunkstyleGio]

The leftovers seem to be  about the same as i had.

Isn't she a beauty?

[amorti]

So... I now have the extra two CaDA motors waiting to be fitted... I'm just waiting for a couple of 55615 connectors in a bricklink order, to apply @astyanax's method, although I might be too impatient and do it over the weekend with 48989s. Shouldn't lose too much strength by that.

I set up a quick test rig of Lego Vs CaDA L motors. There's a really significant difference of around double the speed (I'll measure more accurately if anyone is interested), however just from the 'can I grab and stop a 36t cog' test, the torque seems pretty similar. 

I'll run it on two CaDA boxes with two of the joysticks linked physically, as I'm confident 8v is going to be plenty for this.

I'm not sure how happy the CV joints will be at 8v, but I am sure this thing's going to be quick. The buwizzes can stay in their current home, all they'll be good for over the CaDA boxes is snapping CV joints.

Edited November 27, 2020 by amorti

[XenoRad]

Sariel's review of this set is now released:

CaDA Master C61042 Italian Supercar REVIEW

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 28, 2020 by XenoRad

[amorti]

On 11/8/2020 at 3:07 PM, astyanax said:

 

If anyone was thinking of adding the extra motors, you definitely want to do it during the first build process. It involved a fair bit of disassembly and some severe cruelty to plastic, to add them in after the fact.

 

 

[amorti]

Not quite as elegant as two buwizz, brickcontroller2 and a gamepad, but it does switch on and connect quick.

You may note I moved the hood prop to the outside of that frame; gives everyone a bit more space and makes it easier to close the hood.

And for anyone wondering about getting the hood to close nicely, try this:)

I even found the two necessary 3L axles with studs in my spares.

 

[astyanax]

2 hours ago, amorti said:

If anyone was thinking of adding the extra motors, you definitely want to do it during the first build process. It involved a fair bit of disassembly and some severe cruelty to plastic, to add them in after the fact.

Yeah my proposal was purely fantastical, based on what fitted in the virtual model. I have only just started my assembly, and indeed I'm building with 4 PF L motors from the get-go. I just finished up to the quoted rendering -- so far so good. 

 

1 hour ago, amorti said:

You may note I moved the hood prop to the outside of that frame; gives everyone a bit more space and makes it easier to close the hood.

And for anyone wondering about getting the hood to close nicely, try this:)

Great ideas! I'm still not there yet though...

[brunojj1]

@astyanax & @amorti: nice mods, thanks for entertaining ! The original idea with the 4x L motors was to gear everything up by the factor 20/12 (and successfull in experiments). You could place the gears behind the "wall" facing towards the rear axle. Though I can`tell you if any other device than 2x Buwizz can handle that composition.

Edited November 29, 2020 by brunojj1

[amorti]

2 minutes ago, brunojj1 said:

@astyanax & @amorti: nice mods, thanks for entertaining ! The original idea with the 4x L motors was to gear everything up by the factor 20/12 (and successfull in experiments). You could place the gears behind the "wall". Though I can`tell you if any other device than 2x Buwizz can handle that composition.

As mentioned above, CaDA motors are around twice as fast as Lego motors. Even at 8v, it's quick enough for me in the configuration shown. At 2.6kg (I guess a little more now), it's not about to drift, but it's quick enough to be a handful for driving indoors.

I should make a video.

Edited November 29, 2020 by amorti

[brunojj1]

12 minutes ago, amorti said:

I should make a video.

Yes! 

I was talking about this upgrade:

[astyanax]

44 minutes ago, brunojj1 said:

Yes! 

I was talking about this upgrade:

<pic>

Interesting... But the point at which the 20/12 gearing up takes place does not currently fit in the model. The 20-tooth gear would conflict with the 5x7 frame surrounding the suspension attachment point. Was that 5x7 frame originally not there?

[amorti]

1 hour ago, brunojj1 said:

Yes! 

I was talking about this upgrade:

Got it.

I didn't think it could get more dense with gearwheels in an RC model! Very cool, but I'm not going to tear back into the drivetrain at this point ?

Video to follow, then.

@brunojj1

Do you have a driving video with 2 Buwizz and 4 Lego motors? Did you try building it from CaDA pieces / with CaDA motors yourself?

[brunojj1]

56 minutes ago, astyanax said:

Interesting... But the point at which the 20/12 gearing up takes place does not currently fit in the model. The 20-tooth gear would conflict with the 5x7 frame surrounding the suspension attachment point. Was that 5x7 frame originally not there?

You are absolutely right! Unfortunately I couldn´t find any documentation on this experiment, but I think now I got it right:

Make sure you brace the gears properly from both sides!

 

35 minutes ago, amorti said:

 

@brunojj1

Do you have a driving video with 2 Buwizz and 4 Lego motors? Did you try building it from CaDA pieces / with CaDA motors yourself?

I don´t have any video. I didn´t build it with 4x CaDA motors because I don´t like to couple 2x remotes. However I love how this thread is developing into a "pimp-my-car" topic .

Edited November 29, 2020 by brunojj1

[amorti]

I guess there's nothing stopping you using CaDA motors and Buwizz batteries. I may yet try it because the pinned together remotes are not exactly ergonomically optimal 

[astyanax]

16 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

You are absolutely right! Unfortunately I couldn´t find any documentation on this experiment, but I think now I got it right:

<pic>

Make sure you brace the gears properly from both sides!

Thanks! I checked, and indeed there's room for this setup.

I had just added the fake engine on top, but I think I'll go back and change the gears -- it's not too much work at this point still. I have freed 2 BuWizzes so I trust this 20/12 gearing up will work out!

16 hours ago, brunojj1 said:

I love how this thread is developing into a "pimp-my-car" topic .

I prefer Pimp my Pista!

<waiving hands like a gangsta>

[astyanax]

Lacking stickers, I've sought to create a hint of the Ferrari logo on the nose, in the form of a yellow 1x1 tile:

At first I thought placing a tile in that location was impossible due to a lack of attachment points. But then I realized that there exist these small System brackets, and that one can push studs into both sides of a thin liftarm simultaneously. So here's the underside of my mod of tip of the nose:

This solution also provides the attachment points for adding some slopes underneath the tip, in line with the source material:

[amorti]

Looks really good!

One thing though... I think you'll be searching under the couch for a lot of tiny system pieces, when you crash it (not if) ;)

Edited December 1, 2020 by amorti

[XenoRad]

That looks cool, but how many people are going to have those parts laying around?

I've only started this year and while I do have several cases of Lego parts, when there's something missing for what I want to do it's usually those small system parts that you can use to add details like this. You might be better off buying a Ferrari Speed Champions sticker sheet and using the logo sticker and I do believe they have printed bricks with the logo.

That being said I need to say again that this set is truly amazing for what it offers and I can only hope to see more in the future. From Lego, from Cada, from whomever, as long as the quality is there, the design is not stolen but licensed, the price is right and the end product looks and acts the part.

All in all we have some very talented people here and it would be a shame to let their designs go to waste if they wish to have an opportunity to share them with the world.

Edited December 1, 2020 by XenoRad
Addition

[astyanax]

12 hours ago, XenoRad said:

That looks cool, but how many people are going to have those parts laying around?

They're not exactly "laying around", but when I need some System parts, I "borrow" them from sets like 10265 (Mustang) or 76139 (Batmobile) that I have on display. They'll temporarily be a bit more fragile, but no-one will see they're missing a few brackets underneath.

23 hours ago, amorti said:

Looks really good!

One thing though... I think you'll be searching under the couch for a lot of tiny system pieces, when you crash it (not if) ;)

It's like I learned nothing from the Koncept Mantis...

Worse, I have the tendency to interpret warnings as challenges... So on that note, let me share an idea for the mirrors. I had a few (minor) issues with those:

• the rearview mirror has an exposed stud
• the sideview mirrors don't have a trans-clear piece like the rearview mirror does -- a stylistic inconsistency
• the sideview mirrors' connections are too low on friction, as pointed out in Sariel's video review (I expect also the rearview mirror to be wobbly)

So, here are my proposed fixes:

Ostensibly,  and are my new best buddies.

[nerdsforprez]

On 11/27/2020 at 1:34 AM, XenoRad said:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can someone review the story behind the metal U-joints?  I watched @Sariel's video, and he showed their well enough, but why are they offered (I mean aside from the obvious) and how useful are they? I did not know this about the Cada models.... are they only offered in their motorized sets?  Seems they would be useful enough as U-joints are some of the most fragile Lego pieces....

[Gray Gear]

YourWOBB is selling Metal unniversal joints seperately if anyone is interested. About 8€ for a pack of 4. Link

EDIT: Just to make this clear, I have no idea which brand these u-joints are and how the quality stacks up to CADA's version.

Edited December 2, 2020 by Gray Gear