Divitis Posted April 3 Posted April 3 37 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said: I really like filming just with a phone, its not as expensive or complicated as a fancy camera, but to my eyes its easily "good enough" It's a very nice video, the model presentation is really clear and with really good detail. Which phone are you using? I have a Pixel7 and wasn't satisfied with the quality, easily gets too grainy (and doesn't have a zoom lenses). 39 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said: I'm enjoying this conversation and I'd love to see what video you get at the end (or right now!) This is the best I got so far, the depth is still too shallow for my taste, and the model needs to be more separated from the background. I'm also very annoyed about how the white reflections immediately burn out and look flat white. It may be nice for the turntable, but in static shots is ugly and hard to control. In your video you don't have any, I'm very jealous. Quote
Aurorasaurus Posted April 3 Posted April 3 15 minutes ago, Divitis said: It's a very nice video, the model presentation is really clear and with really good detail. Which phone are you using? I have a Pixel7 and wasn't satisfied with the quality, easily gets too grainy (and doesn't have a zoom lenses). This is the best I got so far, the depth is still too shallow for my taste, and the model needs to be more separated from the background. I'm also very annoyed about how the white reflections immediately burn out and look flat white. It may be nice for the turntable, but in static shots is ugly and hard to control. In your video you don't have any, I'm very jealous. Thank you!! For recording I'm using a Samsung S25. My daily phone, an s23fe, seems to produce a good quality too. Maybe for avoiding the reflections, point the lights lower or higher? For me both work, because I have a shelf above to bounce some light back and diffuse nicely. I noticed your background is very dark, much more black than gray. Black is unforgiving, a lighter one would probably look better. Maybe you can make one from stuff you have laying around to try it out. Quote
Divitis Posted April 3 Posted April 3 (edited) 30 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said: Black is unforgiving, a lighter one would probably look better. I also got a white background, but black just feels sexier - and hides the turntable. 30 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said: Maybe for avoiding the reflections, point the lights lower or higher? The point isn't avoiding the reflections, rather tuning them down so they don't burn out the whites and retain some details. I have a soft panel and a spot which I bounce off the ceiling, but than get very little out of it because of how far it is. Like they do here: Edited April 3 by Divitis image added Quote
mdemerchant Posted April 4 Posted April 4 17 hours ago, Divitis said: What I have the most problems with is keeping everything in focus when filming a large model (1:8 car) without creating an excessively flat and boring image. I learned recently when we had a photographer in doing a product shoot that they way the pros achieve this is by shooting a bunch of images with narrow depth of field at different focal depths and combining them in photoshop or whatever editor of choice. It's called focus stacking. You need a proper camera, which you have, a tripod, which I assume you have, and it's more work but it will give you crystal clear depth of field as deep as you like with any lens and aperture. Quote
Divitis Posted April 4 Posted April 4 (edited) 5 hours ago, mdemerchant said: I learned recently when we had a photographer in doing a product shoot that they way the pros achieve this is by shooting a bunch of images with narrow depth of field at different focal depths and combining them in photoshop or whatever editor of choice. It's called focus stacking. You need a proper camera, which you have, a tripod, which I assume you have, and it's more work but it will give you crystal clear depth of field as deep as you like with any lens and aperture. Thanks for the tip. I heard of it but never tried myself. I don't think it works with video though. I tinkered a bit more with the lights yesterday and managed to solve the burnt highlights. The side light is a little flat but that should not be hard to solve. I also got a recommendation from a friend to run the footage through an AI enhancement tool (Topaz AI) and I must say it does a good job, although it's easy to get too cocky with the settings and make things look fake. These are stills from the video. Thoughts? The AI enhanced version is the one with the glass. PS: Today I'm going to get two more paper panels and extend the set a bit, to be able to separate the model from the background a little more. Edited April 4 by Divitis Quote
Lego Tom Posted April 4 Posted April 4 11 hours ago, Divitis said: Thanks for the tip. I heard of it but never tried myself. I don't think it works with video though. I tinkered a bit more with the lights yesterday and managed to solve the burnt highlights. The side light is a little flat but that should not be hard to solve. I also got a recommendation from a friend to run the footage through an AI enhancement tool (Topaz AI) and I must say it does a good job, although it's easy to get too cocky with the settings and make things look fake. These are stills from the video. Thoughts? The AI enhanced version is the one with the glass. PS: Today I'm going to get two more paper panels and extend the set a bit, to be able to separate the model from the background a little more. So, AI stands for Alcohol Induced? Quote
bruh Posted April 12 Posted April 12 In those last two pictures you showed, they look a little dark, as I’m sure you also noticed. I think I agree with aurarosaurus for a lighter background. And, are you going to create a topic on that car?? It looks great! Quote
Divitis Posted April 14 Posted April 14 On 4/12/2025 at 2:23 PM, bruh said: I think I agree with aurarosaurus for a lighter background. I couldn't find gray backdrops at the time, so I went for black. Which I must say I quite like, although it seems I'm the only one. To me there's no lack of detail in the model itself, and that's what I find most important. On 4/12/2025 at 2:23 PM, bruh said: And, are you going to create a topic on that car?? It looks great! Thanks! As soon as the video is ready I'll make a proper presentation thread. For now, there's the WIP: Quote
bruh Posted April 15 Posted April 15 bro... What a CRAZY thread! Just read the whole thing. CRAZY what you had to engineer and the persistence with which you reengineered. I wouldn't have lasted that long! Quote
domik Posted July 7 Posted July 7 Hello, I've been building a new moc and while I was looking at @Madoca 1977's trophy truck and @Didumos69's greyhound I noticed that they made the front part of the "base" a little tilted and was wondering if it's just for looks or it does something? Quote
Zerobricks Posted July 7 Posted July 7 15 minutes ago, domik said: Hello, I've been building a new moc and while I was looking at @Madoca 1977's trophy truck and @Didumos69's greyhound I noticed that they made the front part of the "base" a little tilted and was wondering if it's just for looks or it does something? It's called a caster angle and it provides self-cenetring for the front wheels and therefore straight-line stability. More info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle Quote
domik Posted July 7 Posted July 7 40 minutes ago, Zerobricks said: It's called a caster angle and it provides self-cenetring for the front wheels and therefore straight-line stability. More info here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caster_angle Oh well then that would help my problems with these front wheels! Thanks a lot! Quote
Divitis Posted July 16 Posted July 16 Hello everyone, does anybody know how to include rubber belts and cables (led lights, motors) when creating instructions? They don't need to be flex pieces, just placeholders would be enough, I think. Maybe someone has a parts pack that includes them? Thanks! Quote
Aurorasaurus Posted July 16 Posted July 16 2 hours ago, Divitis said: Hello everyone, does anybody know how to include rubber belts and cables (led lights, motors) when creating instructions? They don't need to be flex pieces, just placeholders would be enough, I think. Maybe someone has a parts pack that includes them? Thanks! This isn't the clean solution I'm assuming you're looking for- but you can add a real photo with arrows at the appropriate building stage to show where the cables go. Quote
Divitis Posted July 17 Posted July 17 16 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said: This isn't the clean solution I'm assuming you're looking for- but you can add a real photo with arrows at the appropriate building stage to show where the cables go. Thanks. This bad news is provably the push I needed. I created x71 in Studio in three different shapes and it was surprisingly quick. Once I have the others done too I'll create a pack and share it. Quote
domik Posted August 8 Posted August 8 Hello again, I wanted to ask if anyone had problems with this wheel hub? I used it for a couple of months for my rc cars, but recently the dark gray thing that connects to the wheel started to fall off from the black thing. Also the light gray cv joint part that connects to it is painfully damaged and actually doesn't rotate the wheel hub anymore Quote
Zerobricks Posted August 8 Posted August 8 Yes. There are 2 versions, the one with open crossholes is an older one from a harder plastic. The new one with close crossholes is much softer and fails quickly under load. Regarding CVs, I recommend using wheel hubs and CVs from 42160. Quote
domik Posted August 11 Posted August 11 I think I have no other option than buy these ones ( from 42160 ), but is the wheel further from the balls than in the one with crossholes? I mean if it will make the distance between wheels larger when I would just change the hubs. Quote
Zerobricks Posted August 11 Posted August 11 7 minutes ago, domik said: I think I have no other option than buy these ones ( from 42160 ), but is the wheel further from the balls than in the one with crossholes? I mean if it will make the distance between wheels larger when I would just change the hubs. Externally it has same dimensions, only difference is that the balls are fixed and that it can only accpet the large CV joint. Internally it actually features a bearing with 3 rollers. Quote
domik Posted August 12 Posted August 12 16 hours ago, Zerobricks said: Externally it has same dimensions, only difference is that the balls are fixed and that it can only accpet the large CV joint. Internally it actually features a bearing with 3 rollers. What are these rollers and bearing? Quote
Zerobricks Posted August 12 Posted August 12 1 hour ago, domik said: What are these rollers and bearing? They are inside the hub, see here for more details: Quote
domik Posted August 12 Posted August 12 4 hours ago, Zerobricks said: They are inside the hub, see here for more details: Thanks a lot! I'll get these when I'll be able to Quote
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