allanp

It suits hamsters pretty well!

Personally I don't like ANY shade of light blue as it looks like a babies toy! Regular and dark blue is all you need.

Many years have had missing numbers, this is nothing new or unusual and I'm kinda surprised it has caused so much discussion. But now Jim has me intrigued by the meaning behind the number 067. Anxiously awaiting Jim's report!

The mouth of a giant beast!

Nice idea, though I would like to see it totally pure, meaning absolutely no 3rd party elements (including s-bricks and tires) allowed. Also, no altering of motors, and no buggy motors/RC units. Maybe there could be 2 classes, so one class with all the rules (another rule could be that it has to look like a formula E car), and another class where anything goes. Only rules are that it must be 80% by weight Lego, and the motor must be Lego and unaltered. maybe a formula P (purist) class and a formula 3 (3rd party allowed) class. I think in this way, most people can feel accommodated without feeling like others have an unfair advantage. So for example: Formula P Must be 100% unaltered Lego, no s-bricks, 3rd part tires, buggy motors or RC units allowed (S bricks are about as expensive as a buggy motor, so if cost is the reason for not allowing buggy motors then S-bricks should also be excluded, I like s-bricks and will likely get one, but this is just for consistency and fairness), must look like a formula 1/E car, must be roughly between 1:8 and 1:10 scale. Formula 3 Must be 80% or more by weight Lego, must use unaltered Lego motors

This is normal for the 2M worm gears. The new 1M worm gear however has friction with the shaft and the now rare 3M wormgear can't slide at all as an axle won't go all the way through. 2M through hole without friction. 3M blind holes either end. 1M through hole with friction.

I do remember there was a tremendous amount of stress (the full torque of the XL motor) put onto a single 12t single bevel gear and it was before the gearbox so it was used to drive every function.

I tend to think the double bevel gears have the least back lash. Also agree with the BWE quarter gears suggestion, however drive them with a large gear to minimize the small jump you get when the gear drives over the gap between the 1/4 gears, as I have found that the teeth are spaced just slightly too far apart which is partly the cause for the jerky movement of the wheel on the BWE. In the upcoming Lego creator expert carousel, it is driven by the BWE quarter gears which is driven by a 36t double bevel gear (as opposed to the 12t double bevel gears of the BWE) and the rotation is much smoother. It also has it's gearing down much closer to where it is needed avoiding twisting shafts which also causes jumpyness as the axle springs back.

Those turntables would have too much fiction, especially when you squeeze them together when you hold them. maybe try something like this? http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/radbot/online/img_20170525_112035323.jpg For some reason I don't seem to be able to embed images!

I don't own this set, but I was board one day and decided I'd build it in a different colour scheme. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/radbot/online/img_20170525_101723558.jpg

I guess being remote controlled they had to be careful of the weight.

If you want to machine out of raw stock I would use delrin as in my experience it is a good strong plastic that can be machined easily to a high tolerance and good surface finish much better than any acrylic I've machined.

My choice of background! EDIT, did someone remove the image?

Can I have the prototypes that you throw away?!

Actually I have removed the internal gearing from an XL motor (by removing the outer ring and gluing the planet gears solid) so now I have an ungeared XL to play with. I've also put water in pneumatics to make them hydraulic. Should that be on sariels deadly sin list?!