Phoxtane

Eurobricks Knights
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    750
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About Phoxtane

  • Birthday 05/06/96

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Laramie, Wyoming
  • Interests
    Ideas:
    - 'fun' RC car with 42009 crane wheels, small black wheel hub bits, white panels and beams as main color with red highlights
    - Railgun tank based on the 52041 pieces in orange
    - A better Gundam

    Current Project: Sorting and catologing my collection

Extra

  • Country
    USA
  1. Looking at ball bearings of similar OD at McMaster Carr, even the ones with the lowest maximum RPM top out at 80k RPM - even if you derate the Ebay bearings by 50%, you could still push them to 40k RPM... That's with lubrication, of course!
  2. I'm interested in how this works out, since I don't do too many brick built wheelsets myself.
  3. As above: How big is the 'standard' modular city block? I was thinking of going with a 3x3 block, which would give me an equal number of corner and not-corner modular buildings.
  4. Is it still fine to reply to this topic regarding Brickficiency 2.0? Or should we start another one?... I'm getting an error today from Brickficiency 2: Error loading settings... using defaults (System.InvalidOperationException: There is an error in XML document (0, 0). ---> System.Xml.XmlException: Root element is missing. at System.Xml.XmlTextReaderImpl.Throw(Exception e) at System.Xml.XmlTextReaderImpl.ParseDocumentContent() at System.Xml.XmlReader.MoveToContent() at Microsoft.Xml.Serialization.GeneratedAssembly.XmlSerializationReaderSettings.Read3_Settings() --- End of inner exception stack trace --- at System.Xml.Serialization.XmlSerializer.Deserialize(XmlReader xmlReader, String encodingStyle, XmlDeserializationEvents events) at System.Xml.Serialization.XmlSerializer.Deserialize(Stream stream) at Brickficiency.MainWindow.loadWorker_DoWork(Object sender, DoWorkEventArgs e) in D:\github\Brickficiency2\Brickficiency\Main.cs:line 328)Loading... From there, I can play with the various drop-down menus in the top, but I can't actually do anything (e.g., I can open 'Import' but I can't actually select a file to import as the options are grayed out).
  5. I know my classmates use sewing machine oil for the bearings on their longboards. Don't know if it's any lighter or not.
  6. Ah, if I had known the inner diameter I wouldn't have bothered - looks like the ones McMaster-Carr carries in the 5/64" ID are limited to 1/4" OD. The nice thing about the ebay bearings is that they are ZZ (double shielded) bearings, so in theory they'll be plenty resistant to any ABS dust or grit that will accumulate. Actually, another issue that may present itself is whether or not these bearings are lubricated. They may have more rolling resistance if they're lubricated, but they will last much longer because there isn't nearly as much metal-on-metal grinding action. If I had to guess, maybe the reason why some bearings roll more freely than others is because they weren't properly lubricated (or weren't at all to begin with). I'd be curious to see someone tear apart one to see whether or not these are lubed.
  7. [quote name='Aaron' timestamp='1474157780' post='2659654'] Acrylic paint seemed to work really well for the black R328 I got, though it's a bit dark. I found cheap acrylic paint at WalMart that closely matches dark bluish gray, so I'll try to paint this white R328 piece as soon as I have a day off. I'm terrible at taking pictures, but I guess I'll do my best since I promised a review. [/quote] I'd be worried about the adhesion of the paint to the 3D printed plastic over time, as well as the tiny added thickness that a layer of paint gets you (messes with tolerances even more than 3D printing currently does). Be sure to update us in a few months as the parts are handled so we can see how well it holds up with pieces connected/disconnected to them! I like the idea of the dyeing method mentioned above, since that's putting the color INTO the material rather than ON it - and for my setup, it would mean that I could connect tiles and various other pieces to the track (and the track to other pieces) without getting paint ground onto the surfaces, or having parts stuck together because of the paint's thickness.
  8. I had a quick look on McMaster-Carr, and found some ball bearings with a 4.8mm (3/16 in) OD: [url="http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-ball-and-roller-bearings/=148m2ci"]http://www.mcmaster....arings/=148m2ci[/url] They'll probably be more expensive than the ones you can get off ebay, but my guess is the quality will be a lot more consistent between each bearing as well as between each order. And, you can get them in all sorts of types: shielded, not shielded, greased, plastic, hex-shaft ID, and so on... According to the blurb at the top of the page, I would suggest going for double-shielded bearings if possible, since they are more resistant to various contaminants - and I imagine right around the tracks, especially at shows, is going to be particularly bad in terms of dust and grit. Apparently, ZZ stands for a double-shielded bearing, with a ZS indicating a removable shield (so a ZZS would be a double-shielded bearing with one of the shields removable).
  9. Do you know what functions will change or be upgraded, what may be removed, and what may be added with this new forum software?
  10. That design works really well - I just mocked it up with the parts I had lying about, and the pins with the bar through them have enough friction to keep the door in place on its own. I'll have to test their holding capacity later. By the way, if your friend isn't on Eurobricks, they should be; I would love to see more of their work!
  11. I want to build up a set of hopper cars for use at my LUG's next display, and it just so happens that I have six of the 6x28 train bases in orange from my Horizon Express teardown. Even better, they have a couple of 2x2 holes in each to allow cables to pass through, which means I can potentially use them as working hopper cars! Here's what I have so far: [img]http://bricksafe.com/files/Phoxtane/long-term-layout-phase-1/2016-09-15%2017.17.48.jpg/800x452.jpg[/img] [img]http://bricksafe.com/files/Phoxtane/long-term-layout-phase-1/2016-09-15%2017.18.29.jpg/800x452.jpg[/img] Having tested this with a small hopper built out of random bricks and the 1x1 round transparent plates drawer in my collection, the pieces should flow out quite nicely. The problem is the mechanism that will keep these closed and then allow them to be opened again once the hoppers are to be unloaded. So far, I have a device that will keep the doors closed with one of the red Lego pulley bands: [img]http://bricksafe.com/files/Phoxtane/long-term-layout-phase-1/Screenshot%202016-09-16%2010.10.51.png/640x344.jpg[/img] ...But that's not really the solution I'm looking for. I'd like something that will operate both doors at once, and lock in either the open or closed position. In addition, I'd also prefer that it operates with as little force as possible, and doesn't require the removal or insertion of any pins - I'd love something that can be pushed over an unloading pit and automatically dump as it passes over, then close up again where it can be taken to the loading station. Oh, and I'm limited to a 4x8x3ish space as well, due to the wheelsets. Shouldn't be too hard for someone with more experience than me, I think... Any ideas?
  12. I'd suggest for hiding the wires to cut a slit down the length of a short piece of hard tubing, then pass the wires into the inside via the slit.
  13. [quote name='Sariel' timestamp='1473256459' post='2653009'] Interesting, I haven't seen any. Would you mind dropping a link? [/quote] These ones are hidden quite well: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=49749 There's another one I've seen but haven't come across yet where there's a large linear actuator hidden in the lower frame of the locomotive, which does more or less the same thing. [quote name='dr_spock' timestamp='1473213865' post='2652730'] ...Theoretically, if you can center the pivot point at the LEGO magnetic couplers touch, you should be able to rotate without decoupling. That also involves stopping the locomotive at the exact spot not to get tipped. Otherwise disaster ensues. [/quote] I'd go for this version though, because you already have a hard stop in place so that the wagons don't roll off the end of the dumper. All you'd have to do to your current setup is to get the spacing just right with the wagons and the hard stop so that the magnets align over the joint. I'm thinking that even if the axis of rotation isn't aligned with the magnets, they'd get pulled apart by the action of the dumper alone, and then automatically re-couple once the dumper is done with its cycle... whether or not this would work would depend on if the locomotive is heavy enough to not be pulled off the track when the magnets are pulled apart.
  14. I highly doubt the Eagle 5 from Spaceballs will have any chance at being an Ideas set - it IS a Mel Brooks film after all. Which reminds me, I need to get my Ideas proposal for a Blazing Saddles set posted.
  15. [quote name='mdoupe' timestamp='1473144173' post='2652157'] Click where it says "1 release". [/quote] Thanks! I've always thought Brickficiency is the better program to use over Bricklink's new system, it's a lot more helpful when something goes wrong and it's much easier to use.