allanp

I found the suspension on 42099 to be pretty much spot on. It compresses slightly under its own weight but only by a little which I think is exactly where you want it. If it doesn't compress at all it's too hard. If it compresses more than half way it's too soft. It's tricky to get it just right but rather too hard than too soft. No snickering at the back please!

Me: Oh I can't wait for this landrover. OK, so it's not the iconic classic. It's the new lifestyle schoolrun freelander instead but still, it's a landrover. I do hope this has a proper engine @BrickWild Posts picture of upside down cam shaft for an engine Me: Oh, well maybe it'll at least have a proper gear stick instead of sequential gear shift @Lipko "I forgot to mention that the sequential gearbox is operated by a rotating knob" Me:

Agreed.

Nice looking freelander (that's a dig at JLR, not Lego). It looks as though the steering wheel is tilted up a little, which is good. Could this be the first car model with an actual gear stick since 8466? I hope so.

Well because this is the wishes and speculation thread. If it's a wish it would be nice to know more details about what's good about it. If it's just pure speculation then sorry I didn't realise you were just thinking out loud. My bad

Why do you think that? And why should I be exited for it? I don't see anything here that hasn't been done before and that I couldn't already build myself with the parts I already have. You even mentioned Jurgens ultimate 42009 as proof that we've already seen this before. I'm not trying to say your idea is bad, I'm sure it could be made into a great Technic set. But to my mind it isn't about piece count as much as it's about how well it's high price is justified. And it isn't about what a model can do as much as it's about how it does it in terms of mechanical realism and performance. So how would you make it justify it's new record piece count (and price)? How would you make it more mechanically authentic and perform better? Just saying what it could be is kinda meaningless. It could be anything. I want to know why it should or will be and why I should be exited for it.

Yes I found that combination also, but it doesn't allow you to get a 1M wide gear to line up with the round pin holes of the new hub. Still it's a handy combination to know.

With a cheap mini lathe and cheap mini mill there isn't much you can't make from a solid piece of plastic or metal. Have you thought about going down that route?

This is something I often think would be great for pneumatic sets. You can get numbered sleeves that fit onto electrical wires (I've used them quite a bit in my job) and I think they would be much better than having colour coded pipes, which looks unrealistic and still leaves room for confusion in complex setups. The cheapest way to do it could be just to include a bunch of coloured/numbered strips as part of the sticker sheet.

Looks like it's gonna be a massive box, it's a shame there is no flip up lid for this flagship. Maybe it's because there's no b model to have to show off on the back. Hopefully it'll return on the 2020 flagship.

I don't think so.

Regards the new hub having tow balls, as the new CV joint is larger than one module you couldn't fit the hole needed for a pin.

I asked that question but understandably it seems no one, including myself, is willing to test their lovely new reduction hubs to destruction to find out. Though if I had a YouTube channel that makes some income it would be worth it to do a video on it.

I tried this and it didn't seem to work for me. Does it take quite a bit of force? I found that the "old" female CV joint piece fits quite nicely. I would like to find a way of driving it with a gear as close as possible to the input drive to make an excavator. The base of most excavators are "H" shaped, not a vast square like most Lego excavators and I'd like to keep the legs of the H nice and thin to make the H shape more recognisable and authentic. There's sooooo many vehicles that use planetary gear reduction, like bulldozers, tractors, excavators, back hoes, monster trucks, telehandlers, cranes, tatra trucks, front loaders, bucket wheel excavators (both for the tracks and to drive the bucket wheel) so there's a lot of possibilities.

Sure. I added a 1x1 Technic brick from the previous one you saw to add a little stability and to limit its range of movement in the up position.

No problemo

There's not much friction. Those inverted slopes are needed to stop the 4x4 plate assembly snagging on the sides. Sorry for the vertical video!

Same is true for the blue pins as they also have friction. The grey and tan pins don't have friction. I've had a go at building a prototype. I hope the pictures show the build well enough.

I notice you have a black friction pin connecting the 2 halves of the scissor lift (the two grey 5M beams) which will increase friction. Replace that (and any other friction pins used in places that should pivot freely) with a grey non friction pin. Also, the red cross block that slides along the black 6M axle can twist very slightly on the axle due to how loose Lego axles fit through the holes. This can cause some issues with increased friction. To help this you can increase the length of the hole through which the black 6M axle slides by adding a second red cross block (and fixing them together with one or two 2x1x0.5 lift arms) which will help to guide it along the axle better. There's also a similar potential issue with the black cross block and how it slides on the dark tan axle. This may be trickier to solve with doing a more in depth redesign. I'd try the 2 previous quick fixes first and see if that is sufficient. If not, may I ask how high do you want the platform to lift? Would you like the lift mechanism to be only a few bricks high to fit within the confines of the floor? If you only want a small amount of lift then a simple 4 point cam lifter (which can be placed either 45 degrees or 90 degrees) may be the way to go, with the platform guided up and down on vertical posts made from axles.

I prefer it when manual models with fake engines have their engines geared up to spin quite fast when you push them. I think 8868's V6 was geared up 6:1 so the new hubs might not be so out of place.

You can get rechargable lithium AA batteries that are 1.5v. They are expensive though so I haven't tried them yet, but I'm sure no more expensive than a Lego version would be.

There's a few options. There's two places for altering the gearing on each axle. You have 5 different speeds to choose from. 20:12 + 20:12 (as the set comes as standard) (fastest but weakest, motors cut out often) 20:12 + 16:16 16:16 + 16:16 or 12:20 + 20:12 (middle ground, crawling and speed isn't too bad and the hub never seems to cut power to the motors) 12:20 + 16:16 12:20 + 12:20 (slowest but crawls extremely well)

I believe there is a simple "dumb" battery box coming out for the new motors so simplicity will hopefully still be there for the new system.

The load is split between the two LAs, so each LA has half the load (which is only really useful if one LA can't cope and is therefore activating the safety clutch) however the motor now has to drive two LAs, so the load on the motor is the same, perhaps a bit more due to the extra friction of driving another component. This is not like pneumatics where adding another cylinder actually does double the lifting force at the cost of halving the speed of movement.

I like how you was able to match stickers from another set to show the functions. Adding a second LA wouldn't have increased the power, unless the single one was activating the safety clutch.