Dan-147

I understand what you mean about the back yards but if the design has the track attached to the edge of the yard it couuld run just outside of the other yards. Another possibility would be for the train station to be designed as an inside corner (as opposed to the Cafe Corner's and the Grand Emporium's outside corners) or, better yet, as a double inside corner. The double inside corner would be very interesting because it would make it possible to make a "normal" street with the other modulars where the buildings face each other on both sides of the street.

Hi edsmith0075, The stuff is originally sold for stained-glass hobbyists. Check locally if anyone is in the stained-glass hobby (gives classes or if there is a club) and they should be able to tell you where they get it. Dan-147

Hi Juzo, My nipples are burning. PF track is basically 9-volt track with the metal conducting rails replaced with solid plastic. They clip seamlessly together. However, there is a large market for straight 9-volt tracks so you could recover part of your expenses by selling them and replacing them with PF-tracks. The train shed was designed for 6-stud wide trains, so most of the official LEGO trains will fit, no problem. However, the Emerald Night is the exception because it is 7-studs wide at the cab and 8-studs wide at the running gear. Looks like that locomotive will have to sleep outside... That being said the 10027 train shed is a great kit, one of my favorites (I only wish I had bought multipules) so you shouldn't let the fact that the Emerald Night doesn't fit keep you from getting it. Its price on the second-hand market could be another thing... Dan-147 Sorry about that comment. I did not write that part, some malicious hacker is at work. I cannot edit my original post. Dan-147

Very interesting. It certainly makes for a very impressive 7740. I was wondering if you could post scans of the complete instructions? It would be much appreciated. Thanks. Dan-147

It lives!!! It has WHEELS!!! HA!HA!HA!

I had to work it out for my VIA Rail FP-9 project because the curved bricks were not readily available in yellow: You'll notice I shortened the nose by one stud. I felt it had better proportions that way but it's an easy matter to relenghten it if that's what you prefer by following LEGO's Santa Fe Super Chief instructions. I can send you the MLCad file if you want. Just send me an Email. Here's the status of my VIA Rail project; About 80% of the parts for the loco are gathered, I've decided to make the cars 48 stubs long (two 6 x 24 train plates) even though it can't handle regular curves, I've got a project to convert regular curves (of which everyone always ends up with four times as much as we need) to curves with a 56 stud radius. I'll let you know how it turns out. Dan-147

You will indeed need the 8886 conversion wire to connect the light to the Power Functions system. However, this conversion wire has the 9-volt connector at the bottom so it can't be clipped directly to the light (at least not in the configuration that the light is installed in the Super Chief). You will need either a 5306bc020 Electric, Wire with Brick 2 x 2 x 2/3 Pair, 20 Studs Long or a 4757 Electric, Plate 2 x 4 with Contacts with a 3020 Plate 2 x 4 (any color) underneath to allow the conversion wire to clip on top of. The 5306bc020 wire is at least 5$ on Bricklink and the 4757 Electric Plate is 3$ to 5$. It might be cheaper just to buy the Power Functions LED and to just clip off one of the two lights. Depends on how purist you want your setup. Good luck with your Super Chief. Dan-147

I've got the instructions done and posted on Railbricks. So, if anyone is interested... On a side note, I just realized that there is a mistake in the parts list (page 2). One line got dropped, somehow. There should be 4 x1x2 Technic bricks with holes (32000). Dan-147

That's right! Although the bogie I use is a bit simplified (no airhose and a bit shorter). Cale's North American freight bogie was a godsend for me and my passion for local trains. LEGO's wheel-brick design is nice and all, especially for Europeen designs, but it just didn't work for me. Plus Cale's design allows my freight cars to sit lower. Dan-147

It's been a while since I've felt inspired to design a new train car. Recently, I've just been doodling with a "recolored" Santa-Fe F-7 (in VIA-Rail blue and yellow) with the matching passenger cars (see kyphur's post LDraw MOC: My EMD F7 (New Gray) Project . However I didn't really feel all that inspired since the redesign was rather minor. This week-end, I was browsing on rrpicturearchives and I came across a series of pictures for CN bathtub gondolas. These cars are used in unit trains to carry coal and other bulk materials. Traditionally, hoppers were used for these trains but someone figured out that by removing the unloading doors at the bottom of the car, it could be made lighter, it could carry more payload and it required less maintenance. The one downside is that it is no longer self-unloading. Rotary dumpers that turn the whole car upside down are needed to empty it. (Note to myself: a LEGO rotary dumper would make a great project!). The aluminium and red color really caught my eye so I started up my trusty MLCad. Before I knew it, the basic layout was settled. All the little details fell into place so that now my design is complete: The MLCad file is cleaned up and I should be able to start working on the insrtuctions soon. I haven't built it in the brick yet and unfortunately it will be a while before I can find the time. Real Life is getting in the way (home renovations). When the instructions will be done, I'll probably have them posted on Railbricks' instructions page. I'll let you know. If anyone is interested in giving it a try before, let me know and I'll send you a preliminary copy of the instructions or of the MLCad file. Dan-147

The difference between a GP7 and a GP9 was mostly a more powerful engine on the GP9. On the exterior, the only difference was to the classification lights and an extra set of loovers on the side if I remember correctly. So you can decide which it is. I've always been a big fan of the early diesels, especially the ones with tall short hoods. Your model is particularly good great! The extra challenge of using the RC base makes it even more impressive. The only easy thing about using the RC base is that you won't have to try to fit in the Power Function components. The color choice is quite striking with the yellow line separating the black and the white. I have a small question. I noticed that the motor was clipped in one plate lower (which gives it the proper proportions) than the RC base allows. I was curious as to how you pulled that off? Brick on!! Dan-147

How purely LEGO do you want to go? If you're willing to compromise a bit, you could use Kadee couplers. Remote uncoupling is very easy with these couplers. If you're interested, here's a link to a previous post http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59221&hl=kadee&st=0 Dan-147

Hi adrian_dixon, Very impressive. I have to admit that what I thought was "wrong" about your model (unsymetrical front windows, low and square short hood) are spot on with the real loco's photo. I can't think of very many ways to improve it as it is, maybe hang a 3854 or a 60608 behind the cab (although I'm not sure how...) By the way, the three-axle truck is not my design. I borrowed it from Scot Ward. It was featured in Railbricks issue 6, page 62-65. Dan-147

The remote of one cannot talk to the receiver of the other one. They use different protocols. In my mind, that's actually an advantage since the RC channels don't use up the Power Function ones. Theoretically, you could run six different trains at the same time with the two remotes. With the conversion cable, you can run any motor with any system, although with the RC base it requires a lot of cables. The RC base is also very limiting for MOCing locomotives. Dan-147

Great job dede_la_fee!! I had originally passed on Market Street (to my present regret) because I felt it was a bit plain and because the stairway in the center was very limiting. Since then, I've been thinking of recreating it (the originals are just too pricy) with BrickLink. Changing the colors quickly became unavoidable due to the high cost of certain elements in their real shades. I tried normal blue and white (I went for very common colors) in MLCad but I felt it just didn't work. Your render gives me hope that I might achieve something good. Plus, your interior details that I intend to steal borrow are just great... Dan-147

For my MOCs I've decided to go with 7-wide. It opens the door to more detailed models; plus it's a special challenge to build in odd-wide dimensions. The 7-wide trains are not so overwhelming with respect to the official LEGO sets as 8-wide can be. The problem with the official sets is not so much the width diference but rather the level of detail. For that, I can't really blame the designers. Pierre Normandin is a LEGO designer and a member of my LUG (QueLUG). Last year, he brought over a copy of his 3677: Red Cargo Train to our winter meeting. When I talked to him about it, what really struck me the most was that he had to "simplify" his design over and over again to meet LEGO's marketing requirements. However, for my FP-7 project, I decided to stick with 6-wide because I want to mix in my heavily-modified Metroliner cars. In the early days of VIA Rail, when CP and CN were transfering their passenger stock to VIA, there was often a mish-mash of liveries thrown together in a consist. Dan-147

Not to steal your thunder, but I've also been recreating LEGO's iconic North American passenger set in MLCad (and eventually in the brick). I'm a bit more radical in that I'm also changing the colors to more readily available (thus cheaper) colors. I chose to use VIA Rail's colors; blue, yellow and black. VIA Rail is Canada's national passenger train service, sort of like AmTrak in the USA. So, without further ado here are some drawings of the locomotive: MLCad version of FP-7 loco based on LEGO's Santa Fe Super Chief. Certain more recent parts have been used for a smoother profile. Designed to integrate Power Function components. The yellow 4x1x3 panels in the center are for the VIA logo. Blue vinyl cutouts will complete the logo. Cutaway showing internal components. I felt that LEGO's prime mover for the Super Chief was just too plain. The prime mover design I used is not mine; it is by Chris van Lottum (railbricks.com/instructions/prime-mover). Cutaway showiing Power Function components. Something is wrong in my MLCad color definitions so the dark bluish-gray parts ended up transparent but you can still get the general idea. As for the passenger waggons, I've only done the series II cars so far. Here they are in VIA Rail colors; In addition to the series I cars, I'm hoping to add a pleasure dome as well. The biggest question I have right now is if I should build the cars as closely as possible to LEGO's original models or if I should customize them even further. Let me know what you think. Dan-147

As far as getting more torque from the motor, you could try gearing it down. Speed and torque have an inverse relationship (The faster it turns, the less torque it has). If the action (doors opening) is slowed down, it might actually allow the different parts to "fall into place" more easily. Hope this helps. Dan-147

I've always seen the fact that there was only one car as a challenge to build new and different cars to go with it. I admit it is a big challenge what with the windows in a rare color. Tim Gould came up with a very nice design that got around that problem Tim's car. I got the Emerald Night a few months after it came out on a hunch. I haven't regretted it but I still have to rise to the challenge of the additional cars... Dan-147

Thanks for the prompt reply. Actually, the "first level of destruction" was OK for me. I just wanted to get an idea of how much space the PCB and it's components took up. It was still interesting to see the "final level". Thanks again Dan-147

I had slot-cars when I was a child that used exactly the same system. They worked really well. I'm going to keep this idea in stock for when my (very) small supply of 9-volt motors dies out on me. As an extra bonus, your idea does away with those metal wheels that always bothered me with the 9-volt motors. Thanks for the idea! Dan-147

Just curious about what is finally underneath that light gray piece. I was wondering if one of you could snap a picture and post it. Thank-you. Dan-147

He jumps on the observation deck of the last car! By the way, passenger trains in Canada and the US never had cabooses as the train personnel was able to get to the end of the train through the cars. Cabooses allowed someone to be at the end of a freight train to make sure everything was fine (he would mostly be on the lookout for hotboxes (defective journal bearings) and acciudental uncouplings. Today, they have been replaced with the FRED that also includes some monitoring equipement and a transmission link to the locomotive. The change from journal bearings to roller bearings has eliminated hotboxes, the other reason for cabooses. That being said, I still think you have a neat caboose. And you are free to run your train as you see fit. Dan-147

I haven't had the chance to start setting up my dream layout yet: home renovations are sapping all of my free time right now. However, I came across a "picture ledge" at my local IKEA. It screws easily to the wall and, while it is designed to set picture frames on, it is also great for LEGO train track! Exactly 9 track lengths fit on the 115cm model (I know, 9 tracks = 115,2cm but the picture ledge is a bit over-sized). A 1 x 2 plate with handle set on the inside edge of two or three sleepers insures a snug fit that doesn't move around. I have three ledges set up now so I can display a sizeable part of my collection. The only problem I have now is that I'm so satisfied with the ledges that I thinking of intergrating them in my future layout!! That way, the trains can go all the way around the room. I'll try to take a few pictures tomorrow and post them. Dan-147

Jason Allemann from ParLUGment has a really cool design he used for his O-Train back in 2005. It has the added advantage that it is close-coupling and can handle curves very well. He has a lot of pictures of the O-Train and particularly the Jacob's bogies on his site: True Dimensions Hope this helps. Dan-147