Steven L
Eurobricks Vassals-
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Everything posted by Steven L
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I've decided to alter the stern. Now the back panel is made of stages, onto rows of hinges. This way I could make slanted windows. All of the hinges, except from the top stage, are obscured by the balcony and fences. Here is a sideview where you can see the back panel slanting outward. The last picture shows more of the statues. I'm going for mythical animal creatures. For easier and faster working, I've saved a part of the stern. Later I can join the stern to the rest of the ship.
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For now I've added lanterns to the stern. I'm not totally happy with it, but it's a start. It's one of those things I can fiddle about with, from time to time. I've also reduced the number of guns and offset them. It looks a lot stronger built this way. Thanks for the tips. I've also looked into the Swedish Royal Vasa. It does look a lot like my creation. But the stern, no matter what, has to be more ornate. More decorations, more gold. More to come soon. Tips and ideas are welcome!
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Thanks for your reply, Captain Becker. I have little to no knowledge on ships. What I did for this build is Google "tall ship" and look at the pictures it showed up. It's a mix of a couple of Google hits. I used closeups of various parts of various tall ships to come up with this tall ship. Thanks for mentioning l'Ambitieux. There are a lot of good pictures from all sides of this vessel online. Looking at l' Ambitieux I've noticed a few things. I can see the offset guns, a modification that is not hard to do on my ship. I have to look into that. While I'm at it, I can add little shutters on the gun ports. The shrouds (if that's what they are called) go on the outside of the hull, not on the inside. The white on the hull can be the same color as the rest, no problem. I don't know what your thoughts are on the masts, but I see I have to alter the ropes because they are supposed to go back at an angle rather than straight down. While I'm doing that, I could change the masts if it isn't to much work. Suitable name by the way, l'Ambitieux. Because it's rather abitious to create this huge MOC.
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Hi all, For the last couple of weeks I've been working on this tall ship. 126 canons, (so far) 4455 bricks, the midship region consists of 3 32x32 base plates, it's got three levels and a top deck. The size is so out of proportion that I couln't use the regular masts. The shrouds had to be doubled in length to reach all the way to the crowsnests. The sails are a range of round bricks and car panels. Right now I'm putting ropes on the masts and sails. (Forgive me, I'm not used to the proper terminology of ships) It needs a few more things like an anchor, rowing boats, a large crew. A little sidenote: this LDD creation is not made to turn it into a real brick model, just as a 3d digital model. I have no intention to make this for real, so I've used the colors creatively. I know some bricks aren't available in every color.
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It's been a while since I've posted here on Eurobricks. No matter with what mindset I start a LDD-model, I almost always end up making motorcycles. Here is another one. Again, not using the real color bricks. Just for looks.
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How's this?
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Thanks Zblj. I could add a brake disk at the front. I have one bush of room for it. The rear tire doesn't have room for an additional disk. I did find an alternative for the exhaust, but it's not exactly what I'm looking for. I could use connecting links #6101. The cyclindric shape bricks with two lips one one end and three on the other end. Downside is that it's only bendable in 2 directions. I haven't altered the exhausts, because I'm still looking for a better alternative. What I have been working with is a sidecart. If I get the design the way I want, I will post a pic here.
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It's been a while since I've posted here. I've recently re-discovered Lego Digital Designer and this is my new creation. It is not build for turning it into a real working model, but more as a 3d digital design. I know the colors are not all represented in real life, but I went for looks rather than functionallity. Two things I can't seem to pull off is a suitable brick (or combination of bricks) to make fenders. Same goes for the exhaust. I've used the standard exhaust bricks, but I want something flexible, like the tube curves and tube with nob #71076 and #71075. But I can't seem to find a brick that can connect two curves together. Only a lamp holder #4081. But that has a 1x1 plate attached. Does anyone have an idea how to connect two tube curves? I've added the LXF if someone wants to take a closer look. bike tri-engine.lxf
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Hi. I've made a café racer with LDD. With and without rider. I have no idea how the bionicle should be connected. I just tried out a few things that seems to connect. The brake lines are outer tubes. The one in the back is first threaded through the hole at the gas tank. Then connected to the front and back. The one in the front was made basically the same, only I used scaffolding for placing the tube, than connected the front and back and removed the scaffolding. Hang on, the DLL file didn't get attached. I'll try again. http://sta.sh/download/1401683711147401/caferacer_by_steven6773-d6qa9v0.lxf?token=6bb0184df29475cfd610131ce203e5a9eddddd49&ts=1381658071 http://sta.sh/download/2936493591758888/caferacer_with_robot_by_steven6773-d6qa9uw.lxf?token=fb2c6096c380c999cde8056d74e4729ecf06de2d&ts=1381658105 Does this work?
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LDD Bike Rider Template
Steven L replied to Nachapon Bricks's topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
You have turned putting minifigs on bikes into an art form!!! Thanks for the template. -
LDD 5, what features do YOU want?
Steven L replied to BasOne's topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
It would be nice to have an easy way to snap on both minifig's hands to a handlebar. I've asked on two other threads, but we can't figure out how to. Probably something to do with the angle of the hands and the arms. A bit more freedom on the hands might fix it. -
Motorcycle and minifig
Steven L replied to Steven L's topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
If I do that, I can snap the right hand on the left handle or the left hand on the right handle, with the minifig beside the bike. But two hands snapped at ones doesn't seem to work. If I try to do that, I see a transparent minifig with one hand attached while the other is beyond the other handle. That's why I think that the handlebar and hands don't line up. The arms are at an angle on the torso and the hands are at an angle attached to the arm, so there might be a position of both arms and hands that can line up with a handlebar. For learning experience, I tried to snap on a long stick on both hands of a minifig. That doesn't work either. Same problem. In real life you can do it but if you look close, you see one end of the hand closer to the stick than the other end. It's not 100% lined up, but it snaps just good enough to stay. -
The minifig on bicycle template looks good, but if I want to replace the bike with a motorcycle, it doesn't fit. It should because the dimensions on a bicycle are the same as on a motorcycle. Just out of curousity I removed the bicycle and added a new one, but that didn't snap on either. Also if I used the same bicycle as in the template. Probably something that can be added to the list of things they should add to LDD. An easy way to add minifigs to vehicles.
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Thank you so much, that is very helpfull.
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I was about to ask that question here on this thread, but you've read my mind Brawl. (Stil want to know if there is an easy way to put a minifig on a bicycle/trike/motorbike. Not just for regular two wheeled vehicles, but also for MOC's. Second question: I'm having difficulty in finding the right wheels for the right rims. I've tried to make a suitable reference, but there are so many options. Does anyone have a wheel reference?
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Motorcycle and minifig
Steven L replied to Steven L's topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
I've tried that. I put the minifig on the bike, using the default position of the hands and legs. Next I want to rotate the torso forward. But LDD only lets me rotate one leg or the other, or the bike. So I take off the minifig and ajust the legs one by one and fit it back on the bike. I continue this process until I have visually lined up, so if I rotate the arms, it snaps into place. Takes some fiddling, but it works. Kind of. I've also tried alligning, but that doesn't work. Due to multiple rotating points I think. With that thought I tried to allign just one hand, while the other hand is rotated upward, away from the handlebar. That didn't work either. I am thinking about snapping on one hand with the minifig free hanging. Then rotate along the wrist and handlebar until the minifig is seated. Finally putting the free hand into place. But I haven't tried that. I think the angle of the handlebar and the angle of the hands don't line up. Or the handlebar isn't exactly 100% horizontal. -
Motorcycle and minifig
Steven L replied to Steven L's topic in Digital LEGO: Tools, Techniques, and Projects
Thank you for the quick reply, but how did you do this? -
I'm having difficulty in putting a minifig on a motorcycle (or bicycle or trike). I can put the minifig on the bike, but can't allign the hands to the handlebar. Is there a technique for that?
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Thanks for the replies. I haven't had much time to build due to work and life in general. When I have the time, I'll do some more. (and when I do, it's probably going pretty fast. ) @AussieJimbo: I've noticed that to. I'm going to have to add about 2 layers of bricks to both first and second floor. I'll fix it. The two other train crashes, JopieK and Chromeknight posted are inspirational. If I'm going to make my next build, I want something similair to this, but not specificly train crashes. Some fairly well known photo. Something like this: But I've found out that this has already been done in LEGO. A lot of movies are LEGO-lised (is that a real word?). So perhaps a scene from Killbill with that yellow-red truck, but I've seen that to in LEGO. I kind of like the idea of making the Terracotta Army or part of a famous landmark. Niagara Falls, Pyramid of Giza, Machu Pichu or the build of the eiffel tower.
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Thank you Redhead1982. I'm trying to add more detail and turn it into one whole scene.
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I started with LEGO, than came LEGO Technic. It has been a hobby that came and went throughout my live. I've done rollerblading (no tricks, just medium long distances). Swimming, ice skating, mountainbiking. More than a year ago I started riding a recumbent bicycle. That's about it for sports. I built a couple of custom bicycles. A firetruck red chopper, a plywood stretched cruiser, a plywood mother-bicycle with plywood seat and a wooden todler scooter. The red chopper and stretched cruiser are sold. I've heared that the stretched cruiser was stolen from the next owner, sadly. I made a scanner camera (large format camera with a flatbed scanner at the back). The scans it makes are far from perfect, but I tinker on. I'm looking into making photographs on glow in the dark painted slates. It works, but again far from perfect. Pics of various hobby projects are here: http://steven6773.de...034815?offset=0 Besides LEGO, photography is a lifetime hobby of me. I love listening to music but I don't know how to play or sing. That's about it. Some hobbies come and go, but most seem to come back into my life one way or another.
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Thanks for the reply, JopieK. I think that's the fun of LDD. More colors and unlimited bricks. If someone would like building it, feel free to do. My goal is first to complete this LDD design and after that making it more realistic with Povray. I haven't downloaded or worked with Povray before, so that will be a challenge.
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I think if you want all the features the real object has, you should scale up to about 1:3. That way you can build in almost everything. From the elaborate suspension to power windows. Downside is that you should forget about using cross axles for a wheel axle, you have to scale that up to. I'm thinking about 2x2 round bricks stacked on a cross axle. You would probably need a lot of custom made parts. Perhaps colaborated with other manufacturers (think outside the box). Also a lot of regular parts. The manual would be over 500 pages, easy. Better yet, on a dvd. If it would be a real LEGO set it would exceed the €400 euro aol000xw mentioned before me. If we are talking about a realistic sedan car, we should have all the features the real one has. Power steering, suspension, engine, gearbox, lights, dashboard, electric windows, mirrors, locks. But where would you end? And would you be happy with just the form and function or should the technique inside have to be the same as in real life? I mean, I can imagine an engine made with pneumatic linear pumps for pistons, powered by an electric pump and controlled by a mindstorm switchboard. In that case it would look like a real engine and rotates like an engine does, but it has no internal combustion. (obviously). Basically, it comes down to how realistic you want it to be and how far you are willing to settle with comprimises. ...and it would cost a fortune, only a few mortals could afford.