DLuders

Your Trial Truck/Buggy ("Truggy") looks good! Those big Lego Technic "Power Puller" tires look awesome on it. I looks like you used the Unimog's Portal Axle parts or the old, traditional Portal Axle design that uses Technic Triangles. Do you have photos of it (less than 800x600 pixels) posted somewhere? Are there other Technic fans near Mineral Wells, Texas that also build Lego Trial Trucks?

Povratnik reports that "The instructions for the B-model are now available on Lego web site. 9397 B - part 1 and 9397 - B part 2." HOWEVER, the "Part 2" booklet stops at Page 300 -- it omits the last eight pages (301-308). I'll report this problem to TLG yet again.... (sigh) The 9397's B-MODEL PDF Instructions are not yet posted on the LEGO.com Customer Service Building Instructions website. The Technic.Lego.com website is the one with the two-part PDF building instructions available; Pages 301-308 are missing!

While NOT running LDD, if you are using Windows 7, you can find the Preferences.ini file here -- C:\Users\<yourusername>\AppData\Roaming\LEGO Company\LEGO Digital Designer\preferences.ini . Once you find it, delete it and restart LDD. With this newest release of the Macintosh Operating System, the "Library" folder in each individual "User" folder is hidden by default. You will first need to unhide it in order to access the directory structure "{hard drive name}/Users/{user name}/Library/Application Support/LEGO Company/LEGO Digital Designer/preferences.ini" Open Terminal (via the 'Go' menu when in Finder and selecting 'Utilities', then double-clicking 'Terminal') and type the following (replace {user name} with your actual user name): chflags nohidden /users/{user name}/library This will unhide that directory, allowing you access to the folders therein.

@ Rodedown: Looks good! The folks in the USA (like me) have not had much chance to build the 9397 yet; mine is in the mail. I saw Povratnik's below to see its B-model functions; he added a Power Functions Receiver. I know that you did "a modification to the tipper section by adding a bed in it as the original design is open." Do you have any additional plans to modify the B-Model? If so, what more would you do to it?

@ dokludi: Your shows Lego Technic "riding in style"! I like seeing the Lego VW's details on your Brickshelf folder.

@ VHHH: I too watch the "Swamp Loggers" TV show, and can see that the Feller Buncher can cut down BIG trees, rip all of the limbs off of the logs, and cut them to length in just a few seconds. I don't think you have used too many Power Functions motors -- your MOC is very versatile! Do you have any plans to make a video of it? I went to Jo-Ann's Fabrics to buy a few Bamboo stalks (for the 9397 Logging Truck); a Bamboo "tree" could be grabbed by your Lego Feller Buncher to demonstrate its grappling, cutting, and lifting capabilities. Bamboo is lightweight but strong, and can be stained to look like a tree log. They sell Bamboo at Michael's too.

@ TechnicFreak: Although it's a bit hard to see, there are knobs on the front to manually swivel the blade:

On this Minipix blog, Matthew Dawkins ("MatthewMiniPix") explains in detail his Lego "Tumbler" car inspired by the "Batman Begins" movie. He wrote, "Each front wheel has its own steering mechanism, comprised of a transverse rack-and-pinion system linked up to a custom wheel bearing joint. You can see a little of the mechanism in the photo below. Not only do you have hardly any room in which to put all that mechanism, but it also has to be solid enough to support the weight of the rest of the vehicle. With the offset of the wheel and the looseness in the bearing I actually had a problem with the camber of the wheels. To resolve that I had to put some spacing at the top, effectively angling the whole wheel downwards to counteract the camber. "Alongside the complications of steering, the suspension system used in the Tumbler is quite unusual. The wheel sits at the end of an arm, which pivots at its connection with the rest of the subframe, and it held in place by two small springs for extra rigidity. The placement of those springs actually means a lot of spring force is needed, hence two springs on each arm rather than two; it’s all to do with turning forces and suchlike – the springs would have been more effective at a different angle, but then they wouldn’t look right. Thankfully they just about do the job ok." The first YouTube video shows the "Working chassis for a Lego Technic model of the 'Tumbler' from the movie 'Batman Begins'. Work in progress, but this video shows the suspension working on all four wheels, and real working steering on the front! I had to invent my own mechanism for that, using transverse rack-and-pinion systems on each arm to steer each wheel. It's all linked together and you steer from the back using what will eventually be the rocket booster! "Still got lots to do, so might post a follow-up later. The next technical challenge will be the canopy opening, which again I'm going to try to make as accurate as possible, technically-speaking. Then it's just a case of dressing it up appropriately and using up all my black pieces..." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WWpRUPfXxg The shows the completed "Tumbler model based on the batmobile from 'Batman Begins', made entirely from Lego. Has working steering and suspension. See http://www.minipix.co.uk for more details."

Cool! Are you going to make a video of it in action? They don't have firefighting vehicles like it in the USA....

Mahjqa (a.k.a. Mahj) posted a Flickr photostream of his impressive Batman "Tumbler" made from Lego Technic elements. The car was featured on the "Batman Begins" movie. There are 7 additional photos of the MOC on his Brickshelf gallery. The Tumbler's front steering yoke is certainly distinctive, and it is very quick and nimble. Mahjqa wrote, "To those unaware; this is something I built myself. It's not available in stores, and there's no instructions available. Due to technical difficulties I'm going to have to rebuild this thing." If you view the end of the YouTube video, you'll know why: "The Tumbler, with functional steering, driven with Power Functions. It's not entirely done yet, as I'm not really absolutely happy with some of the details. The panels in front of the windscreen are just weird, but they're weird in the original too. If you've got a better idea, let me know." "Plenty of mechanics. From left to right: differential, two-speed gearbox, HUGE BATTERYBOX, steering system....I believe these tires match the look of the original quite well (they're from the 5571 Black Cat)": "What I'm proudest of is the steering system; there's very few Lego tumblers with steering....It's not 100% movie accurate; detail had to be sacrificed to make the electronics fit inside":

@ Fugazi: Did you heed Superkalle's advice below?

@ sevi008: Welcome to Eurobricks! Is the "Caterpillar belt" part that you mentioned the rubber 680c01 "Tread Large, Technic (34 tread 'links')"? There is no way of "stretching" anything on Lego Digital Designer; one can only apply, rotate or bend (flexible) items. As a result, many LDD modellers simply place the Technic Treads on the baseplate. People can figure out where they go! If you are talking about the large Technic Tread "links", you need the "Sprocket Wheel Template" listed at the bottom of this Eurobricks LDD Reference post. Aanchir posted this LXF File and wrote, "Sprocket wheels are another hassle on LEGO Digital Designer (obviously, because they are based on clip-and-bar-axles). This file intends to help you make this technique more manageable. There are three parts to this: a tool in Spring Yellowish Green for building a chain of treads, a pre-made chain of treads, and two "loops" of treads around the two styles of sprocket wheel. "To use the tool, simply place a tread piece or a pre-made length of treads on the part of the tool angled horizontally. Add an additional tread piece to the vertical part, then use the "hinge" tool to connect these two sections. You can then copy the length of tread, move the tool to its original position, and continue expanding the chain as long as you need. "The loops and pre-existing length of chain are meant to help you incorporate these treads into a MOC or set. Although LEGO Digital Designer does not recognize connections between the treads and the sprocket wheels themselves, you can use these loops as a "starting point" for aligning your treads. Just delete portions of the loops and place a chain of treads in their place to create a larger loop between multiple sprocket wheels. Note that this template is not able to compensate for sets or MOCs where the loop will not be "taut"-- this is a problem I may not be able to deal with at this time." Here is additional information that Aanchir put on his Brickshelf gallery: "Hi! I'm Aanchir, and I created this template. "This template is for building models on LDD that require part 57520 (the small sprocket wheel) and part 57518 (the tread). "To use this template: 1) Download the file 2) Remove one or more of the tread pieces that surround the sprocket wheel so that it's no longer a complete loop. I recommend removing one of the 60-degree tread pieces so there's a horizontal tread to connect to. 3) Connect as much extra tread as you need. A chain of horizontally-placed treads is provided for you to use or copy. WARNING! Clips on LDD do not like to center correctly! There will usually be a left or right offset, which can do a lot of harm if all of your clips are offset in the same direction. The chain of tread pieces may not be lined up at both ends! To avoid this, use the green alignment tool included in the file. Place new tread pieces on every other pin, then place tread pieces on the pins in-between. The alignment tool is entirely in green so you can use the "color select" tool to select all its parts at once. If you need to use green parts in your actual model, feel free to select the tool and change its color to something a color you will not be using. 4) Once you have the length of tread you need, you will need it to wrap it around the other wheels of your model. ALWAYS use the hinge tool to ensure the tread is wrapped snugly around each wheel. It may help to paint the treads TRANSPARENT so you can see how they align in the grooves. 5) Some sets and MOCs will have some "sag room" on their treads, or will have wheels that have to be rotated to align properly. I am not yet equipped to deal with either problem, but perhaps you will find your own solution. If the alignment goes smoothly, the last hinge rotation will make your length of tread link back up at the ends. Congratulations! You're done! I hope this template proves useful."

The currently-offered Lego Mindstorms set is the 8547 NXT 2.0 set (shown on the right); the older NXT RCX set is shown on the left. As ciken said, for either Mindstorms set the NXT Mindstorms set one needs the 8528 Converter Cable AND the 8886 Power Functions Extension Wire (shown below) to operate Power Functions motors via the NXT intelligent brick. To learn about what you can do with each intelligent brick, visit these two Brickset webpages to read the reviews: 3804 RIS 2.0 and 8547 NXT 2.0 .

Here are TinkerBrick's photos (for ease of discussion and feedback): "5 Axles in Total: Axles 1, 2, and 5 are steered: Cab doors open: Motorized steering (one PF M-motor): Separate motor for the outriggers, located above Axle 3. Gear down with a worm gear, a clutch gear and bevel gears: Axle 5 is steered. Above Axle 4 is a PF XL-Motor for driving: Driveshaft for rear steering: Axles 3 and 4 are driven: What needs to be done -- Rebuild gearbox to fit 3 more M-Motors to power the crane. And of course, a complete rewiring: For completion I need a few more parts anyway, such as extension wires, LED-Lights and one more IR-receiver. I'd be grateful for any comments, suggestion or ideas. Regards, Tinkerbrick"

@ T_Tank: Do I understand you correctly, that you used Zblj's Minimog as the basis for your Lego Suzuki Samarai model shown below? You already did a Radio-Control (RC) mod of that one here. Is the Samarai's design not fitting the Minimog's LDD chassis design? Your two-line, "run-on sentence" above is hard to read. Please clarify. Maybe you could incorporate one of the available Lego Technic Clutch Gears in your design, to help prevent the snapping of the Universal Joints. They "slip" internally at high torque:

I don't know if using 3L Lego Technic Universal Joints and CV Joints is the answer. Would the 53586 "Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular with Extension" work for you? A Technic Axle slides in the hollow tube portion of that part, but the fit is pretty tight. You could also consider the x334c01 "Technic, Axle Flexible 26L (Axle 2L and 5L Ends) with Dark Gray Cable" part, but it's pretty long. Can you say what you're wanting to build exactly?

I just got this e-mail from the Lego Product Specialist again: "Hello David, ...I just checked on the thread while out of office to make sure everything is going well, and it looks like the dropbox account I set up to host the file has exceeded bandwidth limitations. I was hoping you could update your post to reflect that, as we did not take the link down or block traffic to it. I am the only one with access to block that link, and I made sure it was public so anyone could download it. I will seek an alternative download link in the meantime, but please don't think we were trying to shut anyone off, we WANT people to have the B-Side instructions. TechnicFreak mentioned that we took it down and it was a mistake, (this is not true, I very purposefully put this download link up for the fan community,) and we are not associated with DropBox. While we don't own/work with DropBox, I created an account solely for this PDF so you guys could get it, and I have kept the link open. Additionally you mentioned using Skydrive, if that's something you are still interested in doing, it would certainly help while I get something else worked out in the meantime. Thank you, Jacob S. Product Specialist Consumer Services - Rock Monsters" He provided this link this afternoon for the PDF Building Instruction file: http://bit.ly/yvNqjx . Using Adobe Acrobat Professional, I split the original, high-resolution Lego Technic Logging Truck 9397B/ 9397-2 ("B-Model") PDF Building Instructions into these three pieces that folks can download via SkyDrive: High-Resolution Lego 9397B Part 1 PDF (pages 1-107) -- 56.8 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!273&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 . High-Resolution Lego 9397B Part 2 PDF (pages 108-199) -- 62.6 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!274&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 . High-Resolution Lego 9397B Part 3 (pages 200-308) -- 84.5 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!275&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 . NOTE: The page-breaks occur at logical points in the build. They may (or may not) coincide with The Lego Group's page breaks when they post the PDF files on TLG's websites. Also, there is no "Cover Page" on Parts 2 and 3; I just divided the single PDF file into three pieces small enough for SkyDrive to handle (i.e., less than 100 MB per file). For those who would prefer SMALLER file sizes (for faster downloads and ease of printing, but still with adequate pixel resolution), I used Adobe Acrobat Professional's "Reduce File Size" option. These smaller PDF files are approximately the same size as TLG's 3-part instructions for larger Lego Technic sets: Lego 9397B Part 1 PDF (pages 1-107) -- 15.0 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!278&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 . Lego 9397B Part 2 PDF (pages 108-199) -- 12.3 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!276&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 . Lego 9397B Part 3 PDF (pages 200-308) -- 14.0 MB: https://skydrive.live.com/redir.aspx?cid=5641cce2a1cc0886&resid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!277&parid=5641CCE2A1CC0886!272 .

This creation only needed 1,000 Japanese Lego Cuusoo votes to become reality -- how come TLG raised the threshhold to 10,000 VOTES for all subsequent Cuusoo nominees? It's hard to get 10,000 votes, even for a cool item like the Modular Western Town (which seems stuck at ~4,854 votes, even after it was "Frontpaged" on Eurobricks)....

@ Sjuip: Do you know if the Train parts available in LDD's "regular mode" ARE AVAILABLE in current Lego sets and/or Pick-A-Brick, and whether the LDDextended-mode parts are "legacy" items no longer sold by TLG?

@ Blakbird: Can you estimate how much weight the 9397's Lift Arm can handle, if the Reddish-Brown "logs" are made longer? Can the grapple handle TWO logs at the same time? I've heard of people wanting to use EMT tubing (electrical conduit), copper tubing, and other materials as "logs"....

It can also do what this 1960s hippie did while taking a dump

@ vynsane: You have a nice fleet of Starfighters! Do you build them in real bricks before you model them in LDD? If so, do you keep them all intact? It would look cool to hang them on fishing lines suspended from the ceiling....

On his Flickr photoset, 2LegoOrNot2Lego posted 6 pictures of his completed "LEGO model of the Bell B30D Articulated Dump Truck with tracks. This is another model in the scale 1:17,5 to fit my other models. It features: 3 sets of PF light units, XL powered drive, M motor powered articulated steering, M motor powered dumping and M motor powered air pump to operate the tracks. Of course it all operated remotely with a PF remote control except for the pneumatic switches which are operated manually." This shows its features well. He had previously posted this of it running in the Dutch snow, and of it on a Lego trailer. He is bringing his MOCs to "Ede" in The Netherlands -- is anybody on this Forum going to attend?The Lego pneumatics can tilt the tracks, and they can also be turned off for the tracks to align themselves automatically. "...They can be turned off; all switches are operated manually. The main switch is basically 'ON' or 'OFF', so it the system is closed and the air pump fills the system with compressed air. Or the system is off, then it is just open and air flows in and out freely. With this the tracks can adapt to the surface." Ingmar Spijkhoven describes his MOC in detail on MOCpages. :thumbup: His Brickshelf gallery also contains pictures (when made public). "Length: 54,4 cm / 21.8” (69 studs) Width: 22,2 cm / 8.7” (28 studs) Height: 21,8 cm / 8.9” Weight 2,40 kg / 5.30 lbs"

Mahjqa's Tank Girl's Tank and Basic Tank Chassis are now posted on Rebrickable.com's MOCs collection.