DLuders

The older Technic sets use "Technic Bricks" (rectangular pieces with holes on the sides and studs on the top). The newer Technic sets use "Technic Liftarms" (pieces with smooth, rounded ends and having holes along one side and NO RAISED STUDS). "Studless" building uses Technic Liftarms and connectors to build in 3 dimensions. Although you sometimes see Technic Bricks in modern sets sold by The Lego Group, they're now the exception rather than the rule.

Blakbird's Technicopedia ( http://www.ericalbrecht.com/technic/ ) is a great reference to compare the various Technic sets over the years. It has lots of pictures and review of the older (studded) sets. As far as what is the "best" Technic set, check out the poll results on TechnicBricks Blogspot http://technicbricks.blogspot.com/2010/01/...t-and-most.html . eBay is a good source for getting the older sets. Be sure to search using various, different terms (like "Lego Off Roader" and "Lego 8297") to find all possibilities. Sometimes an item is not described well by non-Lego fans, and one can get a good bargain not noticed by others. You can build on the floor using a big sheet or tablecloth to gather up all the pieces after each build session. You can also get a plastic bin or tray to build in your car during a lunch break! I don't think Technic is "disliked" per se; the "coolest" sets may be too expensive for some to stock on store shelves or to buy. Also, the raw, functional-looking appearance of some models doesn't appeal to folks who prefer a more refined, finished look (like Lego Racers and Model Team). If you live in the US, you can check current availability of the 2009 and 2010 Technic sets on LegoShopAtHome.com . Some sets are sold out.

The holes in the custom aluminum liftarms are 1/1000th of an inch smaller in diameter than standard Lego liftarm holes. The 2-cent Technic Friction pin has to be inserted with more force than normal, but since there is less "slop" between the pin and the hole, there is no appreciable "sag" joining the aluminum to regular Lego ABS plastic pieces. The pins can be easily removed without permanent damage to the pin or the Lego Technic Liftarm. Of course one doesn't have to use aluminum as a "crutch". However, there are some Technic building situations where one JUST CAN'T DO IT with Legos without breaking the ABS plastic. I don't know why one would want to spend lots of money on extra Lego parts when one could spend the same amount on a SLIMMER, stronger aluminum part. I think many folks didn't really get the point of my post. The integration of Lego with R/C servos can expand a teenager's horizons past mere "toys" to the adult world. Modern robotics in high-tech industry doesn't use Lego Power Functions -- they use Futaba and Hitec servos that can be housed in the custom aluminum parts. The fellow selling the parts is going BEYOND what is possible with simple FIRST Lego League-type robots. Doesn't the prospect of "...powering your robot or vehicle using a motor with 15x the torque of a LEGO XL Motor" excite you? My son and I will finally be able to build the Lego-type "Battlebot" that we've dreamed of for 10 years! Anyway, you now know about the option. If you don't want to use aluminum parts (for whatever reason), then don't. Those who want to do stuff NOT POSSIBLE WITH LEGO will have a fun time. As the saying goes, "To each his own".

I like it! 4-wheel "drifting" and power slides! What fun!

In case you missed the recent TechnicBricks Blogspot article on the custom ALUMINUM Lego-compatible parts ( http://technicbricks.blogspot.com/2009/12/...-and-stiff.html ), I am curious to get your opinion on the matter. Some Eurobricks members already left their comments at the bottom of that article. I know, I know, the custom parts are "not Lego", they are a tad expensive, and they may reduce the "charm" of one's creations. Nevertheless, the innovative hole patterns and unique shaped ARE very useful (in the same way that the #61479 "Technic Liftarm 5 x 7 with Open Center Thick" piece http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=64179 is). I bought a few custom aluminum liftarms to try them out, and can vouch for their extremely high quality. Their tight fit takes the "sag" out of a long vehicle chassis groaning under the weight of several Power Functions battery boxes. Moreover, Lego gears on drivetrains don't slip anymore when the sagging is gone. More custom aluminum parts are being added all the time (even since the TechnicBricks article came out); check them out at http://www.bricklink.com/store.asp?p=InanimateReason . One can now even integrate RC servos into Lego-compatible parts to make ROBUST electric vehicles that can be "bashed" outdoors. Although "purists" may dismiss these custom parts from consideration, think about these creations that COULD BE MADE if you used them: 1) Sariel's recent Big Bucket Wheel Excavator project broke apart ( http://sariel.pl/2009/11/big-bucket-wheel-...ator-cancelled/ ) because the ABS plastic used in 100%-Lego liftarms broke apart from the stress. When I asked him whether he would consider using aluminum parts to overcome this problem, he said he would. 2) Advanced Lego and Lego-type vehicles could be made to bridge the gap between "toys" and real-world radio-control (RC) components, without having to invest in a whole new robotics system (like Vex, Tetrix, etc.). FIRST Lego Leage (FLL) gets elementary schoolkids all revved up to the engineers, but then (as teenagers) there's no easy way to transition them to RC components used in the adult world. The custom aluminum parts do this. The concept is explained with pics on http://inanimatereason.com/ : "Imagine powering your robot or vehicle using a motor with 15x the torque of a LEGO XL Motor! Of course, the kit works equally well with a Hitec HSR-1425CR Continuous Rotation Servo which delivers twice the torque of the XL motor....The plate also features integrated mount points for LEGO liftarms and our custom aluminum liftarms. You can also attach liftarms or other Technic compatible elements to the face of [the] horn. The liftarm is designed to mount to either Futaba or Hitec servos (or other brands who conform to their designs)...." In my opinion, what difference does it make if you're not using pure 100% Legos? We're not talking about using Megablocks -- objectively the custom aluminium parts are SUPERIOR to the available Lego-brand parts in strength, size, and hole patterns. Unless you're entering some Lego contest or exhibition, by CONSIDERING these parts you can open up possibilities for even better creations. Lots of folks have used non-Lego parts for years (rubber bands, batteries, ABS glue, Pittsco Dacta, & HiTechnic sensors and components before Lego bought them out). Even the full-size Lego car sitting out in front of Legoland in Carlsbad, California uses metal axles and glue. Your thoughts?

I'm familiar with a real bicycle's "dropout" (where the wheels can be removed by simply loosening a nut that has a lever on its side). I just looked at all of the Lego Bionicle pieces on Bricklink.com's Catalog pages (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&catType=P&catID=273 ), and didn't see any STOCK parts that could work without modification. However, even if Lego actually MADE a Technic Liftarm with a notch on the end-most hole, could a Lego wheel actually STAY ON IT by "pinching" the liftarm with Technic Bushes? There are old Technic threaded axles (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?q=threaded ) and corresponding nuts (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4698 ) that one could use IF you're willing to saw-off the end of a standard Technic Liftarm to make the forklike "dropout". Alternatively, you could cut off the end of the Bionicle part #47334 (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=47334 ) to expose a "dropout" fork. Go through the various Bionicle pieces at http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?p...&catID=273; maybe there is a part that you like better. Lego pieces can make ALMOST anything, but not everything....

If one looks at the last page of the #8041 Race Truck's printed instruction Booklet #1 (Page 48), there is a picture of the #8258 Crane Truck with Power Functions. At first glance, the #8041 Race Truck and #8258 Crane Truck are similar in appearance. Maybe that's where the confusion got started. There doesn't seem to be any room for Power Functions elements in #8041 without building on a "sleeper cab" on the back of the truck, or having the battery pack toted on a TRAILER attached to the Race Truck.

My son and I have Lego Technic sets and MOCs scattered all over the Living Room and basement. They're on the floor ready to play with at all times! My son's friends like grabbing them and drooling over them . Luckily, our Beagle pet doesn't chew on them and only drools when there's food around....

I don't know if you read the recent posts about the Lego Crane Truck modifications described in http://www.designer-han.nl/lego/original%20modifications.htm , but if you rebuild the standard #8258 kit, you should consider doing the "Critical" modifications shown there. MLCAD & LDRAW have a lot more Technic parts than the Lego Digital Designer 3.0 software!

I think these instructions may help you: http://www.holly-wood.it/mlcad-en.html . Be advised that there are UPDATES for MLCAD available from http://news.lugnet.com/cad/mlcad/ . Recommend that you get the basic MLCAD program running on your PC, then update it.

You should still be able to run MLCAD on Windows 7 or Vista, even though the last (2005) version didn't list them (because these operating systems weren't available yet). Older software can usually run on new operating systems. You could download MLCAD for free and see if it works or not -- I'll bet that it will. I'm running Microsoft Office 2002 on Windows Vista with no problems.

Hey, if you ever want to build a TRAILER for that Renault Magnum, check out this website: http://www.dennisbosman.nl/lego/no53.html . Dennis Bosman has many more trailer designs on that site too!

You could also consider MLCAD (http://www.lm-software.com/mlcad/ ) which uses LDRAW.

Here are some possible websites you could use to design the Technic Steering for your creation: 1) Use Blakbird's Technicopedia (http://www.ericalbrecht.com/technic/ ) to get the Lego Set Number for the Quad Bike, truck, or other 4-wheeled vehicle you want to build. 2) Go onto the Lego Customer Service website (http://us.service.lego.com/en-US/BuildingInstructions/default.aspx ) to get the original Lego Technic BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS of the set you are interested in. You'll have to scroll down to the bottom of the page to see the various PDF documents you can download (for both the Main and Alternate ("B") Model). As indicated before, the steering is usually pictured early on in the instruction booklet. 3) Type in the Set Number in Peeron.com (http://www.peeron.com ) to get the PARTS INVENTORY of that set. 4) Go to Bricklink.com to order the needed parts.

TechnicBricks Blogspot (http://www.technicbricks.blogspot.com/ ) just posted links to instructions for the 1H2010 models. There are now online building instructions for both the "A" (Main) and "B" (alternate) models for the new Lego Technic Sets 8045, 8046, 8047, 8048, 8049, and 8041. They have pictures of the various sets too to be able to see which one is which. Be patient with the downloads -- due to heavy traffic, the Lego computer server is very balky and it may take several attempts to download your file. Also, the 8049-2 and 8041-2 B-Model download links have two ZIP files that contain all three of the B-Models' instruction books.

The 2010 limited-edition Lego Technic Set #8041 (Race Truck) is described at http://shop.lego.com/product/?p=8041&L...7&ShipTo=US . It definitely does not have any Power Functions motors -- it is "brought to life" by rolling it on the floor and seeing the engine pistons go up and down. Neither Lego Customer Service nor Peeron has any instructions or inventory posted yet.

If you are waiting for LegoShopAtHome.com to restock the Set #8258 Crane Truck, you my be waiting for a while. Recommend downloading the Peeron.com parts inventory for the set at http://peeron.com/inv/sets/8258-1 , seeing what new parts are there, and ordering them from Bricklink.com with your $75 in cash. It doesn't make much sense to pay $150+ for a set if you're not specifically interested in building a Crane Truck per se. Save the Lego $75 coupon for a 2010 set. I'm not sure where JimmyTheFly lives, but there are two sealed #8258 sets available from Bricklink sellers in Germany for $130 (see http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?q=8258 ). The ones for sale on eBay are selling for ~$200 (see http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksi...-All-Categories ).

The new Renault Magnum looks a lot better than the old Octan Truck. I'm looking forward to seeing your video of the tractor-trailer combination in a few days. Maybe you should consider entering your truck in a "Hard Truck Contest" featured on the website http://www.doublebrick.com/htc !

I actually OWNED a 1971 Buick Riviera about 20 years ago, and can vouch that Ralph S's model captures the essence of the real car -- a BIG wide hood and the pointy BOATTAIL. The car I had was gold in color with a black VINYL roof. Boy, does the model bring back memories of the HUGE 455-cubic-inch V8 engine powering the car through the deep snow! I wish I could get a LDD file of this model, so I can build my own sometime! Great job!

What a FANTASTIC creation to start off the New Year! WOW! What a very thorough job you did to describe your work. Now we know why TLG is sold out of the PF motors -- you put them all into this MOC!

Zblj always makes the coolest Trial Trucks! My teenage son has been trying to make something like this for months. We're both looking forward to seeing more pics on Zblj's Brickshelf folder and on BrickTruckTrial.com !

I dowloaded a black "Custom Truck" from the LegoDesignByMe Gallery webpage http://designbyme.lego.com/en-us/gallery/d...|custom%20truck , and was shocked that it would have cost ~$174 US to get the parts for this model. So, I just ended up reverse-engineering the Building Instructions. I went page-by-page, wrote down a list of the needed parts, and ordered them from 4 different Bricklink stores. This was very time-consuming to do for a 700-piece model, but it saved me some money. I was able to buy all of the parts for about $80 US (which is more reasonable), and one can build the model by just looking at the step-by-step building instructions on a computer screen.

Now that "The Holidays" are here, what Lego Technic set did you or your family get as a gift? Also, which set or sets did you NOT get but that you WANTED to get? Maybe you gathered the parts for a classic Technic set no longer sold in stores.... As a gift to my teenage son, I got him the 8263 Snow Groomer and the BIG 8258 Crane Truck. Those will keep him busy for a while! (P.S. I wanted to give him the parts for the FANTASTIC Lego Technic Custom Lamborghini Gallardo kit by Crowkillers & Blakbird, but the Post Office didn't deliver some of my Bricklink orders. I'll have to save that kit for another occasion.)

Check out Philo's excellent Power Functions information at http://philohome.com/pf/pf.htm . He does not show the Power Functions RECHARGEABLE Battery Pack, but he has good information about the CURRENT DRAW of the various motors. I use 2450 mAH rechargeable AA batteries in my regular Power Functions battery box, and yes it seems that it's the PF RECEIVER that is the limiting factor. So, more motors --> more battery packs --> more weight (a vicious cycle).

Yes, Year 1998 Sets 8428 (Turbo Command with CD-ROM) and 8432 (Turbo Command without CD-ROM) had the COOL WHEELS. I read somewhere that the low-profile tires were the "stickiest" of any Lego tire made. Thanks for posting the alternate instructions!