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gambort

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by gambort

  1. No offense taken. I do appreciate the suggestion but I think it would be a lesser compromise. No if I were to do it UCS scale who knows what I could sneak in ;) Tim
  2. Hmmm... Cavegod gets away with that because he doesn't have the wedge but that's not a sacrifice I'm willing to make. I can't make such a simple connection like he does. Also I wouldn't be able to get the yellow point. Tim
  3. I'm not really sure what you mean. Could you make a demonstration version and show me. Tim
  4. This is still kind of a WIP so suggestions are welcomed but it's also kind of done. Dear TLG... a wedge can be done. Tim
  5. I liked 6357 so much I made my own updated version with Mike Psiaki. Tim
  6. Thanks Kim, Ordinarily I would have asked first but I figured it was blatant enough that the vignette was indeed 16x16 and I wasn't sure if I'd have time to reshoot if it wasn't. I highlighted it to make it clear to the rules judges that I wasn't trying to cheat. Tim
  7. I agree that 'silly' is too strong a word (I was getting sleepy when I posted it) but the rules stated that the vignette had to be 16x16 which it clearly is. Just because I lifted it off the ground on a 17x17 base to help make the photos clearer doesn't make the vignette any bigger. Apparently the contest organisers agree as it's been added to the entries :) Tim
  8. I honestly don't care if it gets disqualified although I'd think it'd be a bit silly if it did. I was inspired by the contest but ultimately I built it for fun and my own enjoyment. And I like the base. Tim
  9. More at Brickshelf Unfortunately I won't be near my bricks soon so I'm getting this in early. The diorama is actually 17x17 including the brown base but that's not a part of the diorama so I figured it would be OK. I did make sure nothing overhung it. To clarify, the vignette is most certainly 16x16, the base is 17x17 but is not a part of the vignette. Anyway, here's the Max Rebo band (old style). I had a lot of fun making the band members. Tim
  10. Not an armoured train but along those lines Tim
  11. Some ideas in here http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=321789 The big trick is to use a 1x4 brick, 1x2 plate and 1x2 tile resting on studs to fill the gaps between the ties. Tim Tim
  12. Classic styling but very modern style. Excellent work. Tim
  13. Nice analysis. I'm not sure about that. So long as the rear wagon uses standard train wheels you have a fixed height to work with. Slow your train to a crawl and you could do it mechanically by taking advantage of this. Not that I'm a technical expert by any means but I reckon it could be done. I'm also thinking that a modified (and uglier) version of my coupler linked above could be made for easy decoupling. Tim
  14. Haha! Took me ages to find but I got there eventually :D http://www.truedimensions.com/lego/customs/5302/index.htm Jason Allemann's O-Train has fantastic close-coupling. By far my favourite design. Tim
  15. I can't remember who invented the close-coupling technique in this (it's by a Canadian who made a red Toronto or Vancouver LR vehicle on a private site) but it's probably my favourite cc trick for a shared wheelset. I think the MPD has full details of it. http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=229249 Tim
  16. Most importantly they're much cheaper than the official parts ;) So now people can stop complaining about not being able to buy more cars and just make their own. TIm
  17. I'm not the first to do it but I did provide full instructions. Hopefully this will stop some people complaining about their short trains. I tried to keep in the spirit of the original and I left out the interior as you can adapt it to suit. Tim
  18. I really like these wagons but a Turkish engine would be the icing on the cake. I may be wrong but I think I'm the only person to have made a Turkish locomotive so far and I'm an Australian. That's just not right ;) Tim
  19. Unless you live in Manchester or Liverpool you will be living in a town with mostly curved track and a little straight track. Probably at a ratio of less than one to one. Tim
  20. I'm partial to this design. The 1x1 with three studs can be replaced by 1x4 with studs on side for longer segments. Tim
  21. I'm sorry but this is not 'based on' misterzumbi's VW. It is a copy of it (well done btw, it's a complicated build) with some very minor changes. It is not even close to being your work. It's about 99% someone else and 1% you. The fact that you admit to knowing it wasn't yours but made no mention changes things. It means you knowingly plagiarised the work. Please alter all references (like the main post here and the Brickshelf gallery) to it being your work and put it very clearly whose work it really is: misterzumbi's. I'm also sending a private message to the admins here to alert them to your plagiarism. Tim
  22. The fender mounting could, arguably, have been though up simultaneously and without knowing you took the idea it's an understandable lapse (if even a lapse). The reversed cheese slope above the rear fender is not convergent evolution. Tim
  23. This reminds me very, very much of Misterzumbi's version. In fact it seems almost identical to his white version. MOC or Someoneelse's Own Creation? Tim
  24. It doesn't actually use a sticker at all ;) It's all in the power of image editing. When I finally print a sticker I doubt it will look so nice. Tim
  25. Thanks guys. I improved the lights. Tim
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