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Mats_o

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Mats_o

  1. Thanks for the tip. Nice to know it's not only me or my computer ;)
  2. Good for you, I seem to get it on almost all models when they get above 3-400 parts and i do a lot of alterations
  3. After building and changing a model a number of times I start to get problems with LDD where it wont place the parts correct. I know the pice will fit and if I do the same combination on a new drawing it will work. On an older large model it will place the part with a small gap of empty space, therefore the next part won't fit. Is there any way you can force LDD to retrace the model and reset it's messuremensts since it's LDD who loses it ;)
  4. Have you made that Right hand stearing mod yourself or did Lego produce a different version of 8860 for left hand driving countries?
  5. I Do love it to. I Have a long term work in progress for a smaller and a little older loader, Maybe a L150C or something like that but it won't look as good. I'm not that good (I would like to be :D )
  6. Got the 42030. Will maybe buy another one on discount. It contains lots of nice parts :)
  7. Now when there is a Quick-change coupling we need some attachments for it Pallet forks for example or is the crane arm more interesting? I did fix the bucket too I have created LDD files for all three https://www.dropbox.com/s/1i1qbcejkujutmn/L350_Quick_connect_pallet_forks.lxf https://www.dropbox.com/s/hkcdiffm07k2hw8/L350_Quick_connect_crane_arm.lxf The big bucket does not exist in LDD yet so I have just made the adapter https://www.dropbox.com/s/jb0jee102w2kqqw/L350_Quick_connect_Bucket.lxf
  8. I'm a little dissapointed in the lack of interest but :) Lets see if a Quick-change coupling system can boost the interest. Volvo Loaders (and backhoes) uses a standard system based around the "Stora BM" attachement system. for you who read swedish here is a report on how to construct one http://lnu.diva-port...id=diva2:538871 I wanted to create something similar without having to rebuild the loader. This created some space constraints that meant that I had to "cheat" a little. however this is what I came up with The idea is that the attachement hooks over the pin in the top and then you push a axle through the lover hole. If the loader would have been wider i would have loved to put a minimotor there and made it remote controlled. I also made an LDD blue-print for my Quick-change coupling https://www.dropbox....ick_connect.lxf
  9. Made a pair of pallet forks. se https://www.dropbox.com/s/eb7x56eymmzqp9v/L350_pallet_forks.lxf
  10. As it sounds a thread for different mods to the 42030. A few small ones I'm thinking about A Quick-change coupling system so that the bucket can be exchanged for other tools. As a bonus it should like the original Volvo system :) A towing hook. Nice to be able to have a trailer attached with the other tools A lifting arm. Pallet forks replace two of the 24 tooth gears with clutchgears to avoid using the clutches in the LA:s Bigger mods: Fix the steering fix the linkage in the loader so that it remains parallel during the entire envelope. Rather nice if you got a pair pallet forks attached
  11. Got mine yesterday. 2395 swedish kr. Rather expensive but :) there is three things to be fixed as I see it the steering no parallelhandeling in the loader the gearing abuse in the LA:s. I don't have any extra around but the 24 tooth clutch gear should work as a replacement for standard 24 tooth for the lifting LA:s Bonus: A fast connector to change from the bucket to other tools
  12. it's a shipping error. Lego Custommer services are realy good. My 8043 went missing in transit the week before cristmas. They send me a new one with UPS. 16 Hours from talking with them until i had it in my arms is pretty good then it includes customs and so on ...
  13. MBMC: Nice one. I have made my own LA:s using gear racks and worm gears. I would think that about 4 of them might be able to lift that boom but the tension would be very high
  14. instead of a 10 long axle i would use a 3 long, one 6 long and a connector.the 3 long should go through the cab side, the lift arm and into the connector. the 6 long goes through the connector out to the left side of the digger (seen from behind)
  15. Prices varies around the world but price/performance tend to place IKEA high up. not near Duracell in range (30-40%) difference but you do get 10 IKEA for less than 4 Duracell costs
  16. First a huge Welcome Jennifer. Your website got me back to building too. The red Crane and the AC50 got me into trying to build a Crane of my own. It should be a studded build and it should be smaller than 8221 in size but be able to outreach the 8221. It's way from finnished (the undercarrige is ugly) but a little teaser
  17. One thing that remains to be resolved is to do the back end of it. How can that be done the best way? There is something for you to think about :)
  18. Since it's still a prototype it hasn't been tested in a modell yet but it feels fairly strong. It might not be the best for the heaviest loads though but since it's smaller you can always use two :)
  19. I have made a prototype of a smaller actuator. the main benefit is that it's only three studs wide. Is it done? nope Can it be improved Absolutly
  20. +1 :) They look very interesting
  21. I have tried using a worm gear and gear racks But i cant get it as stable as I want it. There was on verion on the net but that design was to tight (to much friction on the parts). The cheat way is to do something like the the threaded version that Jennifer clark used on her white crane I would need something capable of extending 12-16 studs.
  22. I bought the 8043 for Christmas. Got the new fixed version so no problem there. I didn't like to have to switch mode to be able to turn around so I decided it was time for a mod. First idea. Use a Micro-motor to drive the switching and use the fourth motor to do the turning. It works but it's to slow. Second idea, do it right :) In other words do a full six motor mod. I like the original battery box so that should remain. So where should I put the two extra motors? I didn't want to put them in the arm since lifting is underpowered already. I wanted to improve the lifting if possible while still using a medium motor. After trying some not so good solutions, I came up with an idea. Directly behind the pivotpoint for the arm there is a grey 13 beam. Behind that there is a black 15 beam. I removed that black beam and the geartrain for the lifting function. The 10 axle was replaced by an 8. By lowering the black 15 beam that's just ahead of the battery box 2 holes I got a hole long enough for a medium engine!. And since it now drives the lifting without a lot of gears it got a little better. That was one motor. One left to place and as stated earlier in this thread there are space for five medium motors in the rear so lets place it there. The leftmost motor (looking from behind) drives the right track. The next motor drives the dipper-cylinder. To make the drive train for this as easy as possible I used a 3 axle out of the motor to a 4 long U-joint and a 4 axle followed by another 4 u-joint and a 3 axle and that reaches the 16 gear in the pivot. The middle motor drives the left track strait through the old gearbox. The next drives the bucket. It has the same transmission as the dipper The last motor controls the turning. The extra reciver was placed on the right side of the lifting engine. I'll try and fix a picture later on (no battery in the camera)
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