mikey

They look like they might be usefull, and are an improvement on the 'standard city wheels' we get? I look forward to you post of #1 then. cheers

Right I understand now, really I am just looking for a few small sets that would contain the finishing touches to a medieval MOC. Perhaps a Bricklink is the answer to get a few minifigs and some weapons then. cheers

I am in the UK, my main interest is Town, but having seen all the amazing creations in this forum I am very tempted to try some medieval Lego! I am buying blay, reddish brown and tan bricks and plates etc. from Bricklink for Town MOC's, so would like to start with an impulse set 'The Knight' 5615 and 'The Joust' 7009 (although I am of the opinion that warrior skeletons perhaps belong with Lord Of The Rings, not Castle?), I do not see Castle in any toy shops here, so I check out Lego.com. The site says these are not available in the UK? I could understand LEGO company not releasing them for sale here (why?), but what difference does it make to there european distribution center where they dispatch sets to? Does anybody know where I could obtain these sets?, for a reasonable price and not have to pay over the top for shipping etc? Or should I just try to obtain a few MiniFigs & Weapons ( i have a good collection of suitable utensils and other bits in realistic colours ), from Bricklink? I am sure Castle is strong in the UK, so do you not need to buy the smaller impulse sets because you have a good range of bits already, and have bought the larger sets (which are available on Lego.com, but I do not see in any shops eg: Toys Are Us)? cheers

That is a really good solution, it means that I don't need to remove the cylinders from the brick. I was planning to cap the weighted brick with a 2 x 4 glued plate, (4 plates high is perfect for this purpose). So leaving the cylinders in is going to aid the glue. I could use the cold solder to check the weight needed first, (then mark out a rough length which would be needed to be melted into the brick). Now lead solder is what people use to put togethor miniture stained glass? It is different to standard solder that you would use to do simple electronics (like a guitar?)? As a side note, if you did ever need multiple weighted bricks, using a micro scale is a brilliant idea. I'm sure with some experimention and care you could produce a range of weights if needed.

yes, this would be perfect I think, I was considering to use 'Super Glue' to glue a plate on to the newly weighted 2 x 4 brick. I think I know 'Acetone', but would not know where to get it in a pure form. I assume actual nail polish would be mixed with other chemicals, so would not really be suitable. If I used fishing weights I could experiment to get the perfect weight (for balance), before I put them in the brick. I am thinking that I will not need to fill the whole void up with lead, so in that case, do I trust that I can work the metal into the corners (surely lead will be workable from body heat?, from what I remember it is malleable at room temp?), or would there be some way of gluing the lead to plastic? cheers for the advice I have not seen those, I would prefer a 'Lego Solution' in an ideal world (purely for the satisfaction of obtaining a 'purist' solution), but if necesary I will resort to butchery! Is there any chance of you pointing me in the right direction to search for this on BrickLink? I have tried 'magnetic' on the search, but only find the train links, and stickers... cheers

Got to say i'm intrigued by that term myself! I could think of a few possibilities though!

No, the mudgaurds on this look spot on, and need no improvement. But I am interested in what wheels you are using with #1 though?

One of my (long term) projects has been attempting a 'boom lift'. These are essentially a two man cherry picker box on one long extendable arm, they are capable of both long reach horizontal and vertical lift. I could link some reference pictures if necesary. My aim is a realistic looking build with realistic functions. My problem now is balance. My model is capable of vertical lift (with no problems), but to achieve a decent horizontal reach I have had to balance the boom to far back from the body of the machine (to achieve a realistic look). I'm sure my explanation will need some pictures really, but I do not have a camera yet! My solution would be to have a brick with some weight, I am sure this would balance the horizontal reach... I have seen a 2 x 6 weighted brick which Lego have produced, and I have seen a 2 x 4 aluminium key fob (which the makers claim is Lego compatible, once you unscrew the key attachment), but they don't seem to sell in the UK, and I do not really want to pay them to ship one across the atlantic for me! The 2 x 6 official Lego weight brick is to large for me, I need a 2 x 4 brick with weight. So my ideas are leading me towards adding weight to a standard 2 x 4 brick? This may be seen as cheating by some, and as an act of violence towards our brick! My 'warped' imagination is seeing a brick filled with 'Poly-Filla' (this is like plaster, you mix it up with water to fill in cracks! in your walls and ceilings), but once dried out it may not have that much weight? If anybody has managed to make it this far down the page, can there be a solution to this, apart from resorting to 'out riggers', as the machines I am basing it on do not use these.

This is VERY sleek looking! This has got to be one of the best minifig compatible cars I have seen. The only improvements could be Brown seats? More for the greater contrast this would bring to your photographs, and the luxury of calfskin interior? Also the Modified Grill Tile which sticks out 1 plate, (where your Registration Plate would go), should be flush with the one above? I think this would just add to the sleek style of the car? Your curved windshield looks superb, don't worry about the lack of roof... it should stay convertible for the long hot summer ahead!

I have to agree with that, I think most sets that include buildings are in need of some modification if we are aiming for a 'realistic' look, in some ways that is the point (and all the fun) of Lego? As sets with buildings go this one does not look to bad really, would be interesting to know what the RRP is? This set never really got my hopes up, a truck design with doors would have sold it for me though!, I am waiting for the Pick Up Truck on its own which I think looks good in itself, and then multiple purchases just for the classic doors!

This is a bit off subject, but would those fit inside a 'standard city' mudguard? I think the modern style of trucks are amazing, apart from the wheels! The 'standard city wheel' which I presume you used originally are perfect for cars etc., but look totally out of proportion on anything bigger. I have tried with which fit into the mudguard well (which I happen to quite like), but I was not overly impressed by the 'thin' profile of the wheel. your thoughts would be appreciated!

My only problem now is to go in and buy it... They have the Lego Farm at the same shop!, and it's about the same price! cheers for the advice, am going to go for the A470, if I don't get side tracked by agricultural Lego!

So Canon is a good make to get, the cheapest canon Powershot (A470) works out to be in my budget, and on the site it says: "FOCUSING Closest Focusing Distance: 1cm (W) from front of lens in Super Macro" Is this what is needed to get a good shot?, I would presume that your never going to need to have your subject that close to the lense? cheers for pointing me in the right direction

This looks really good now, looks like you've raised the base a little as well. Much more in proportion as well now. Just goes to show that 'Version 1' of a MOC never really works! You need put in that extra time (which can often start to get frustrating!). I've found that putting it away for a few weeks, and just taking a look every now and again gives your head the space that is needed. Then when you go back to it you are refreshed and can realise what is in your head. I'm still working on something started in January!

I have to agree with this, I had the same problems. The review is spot on, and I was aware of the size when I bought it (the reason for my purchase was the reduction in RRP really). I think that it sat unopened for 2/ 3 weeks showed my lack of interest in it. Whilst I agree that CAT do make machines of this size, they are rare and only used in large scale open cast workings. I doubt you find these often on normal construction projects. I think the scale makes it look silly. But if you look at it as a parts pack it is worthwhile, in the UK they are going for under £20, and you do get a lot of usefull pieces I think. My plans are to use the basic design and modify it much smaller, whilst investigating Bricklink to find what pieces I need to do the Crawler Crane.

cheers! well I have certainly got the inspiration right on my door stop- I can see Conwy Castle from my seat here! So i'm not sure if that is adding to the temptation a little!

Well, my name is Mikey (you may have guessed that already!), i'm from North Wales, UK. Have been browsing this forum for a few months now, and it has got to be the most active and informative site around. I have got to say the reviews are first rate and a big help in making decisions. I got back in to Lego earlier this year after a lengthy dark age (I'm 29), my main interest is the modern Town sets produced in the last year or so. Although saying that I am getting very tempted to slip back a few centuries each time I open the Castle forum (but I know it can never be 'just one set', so have been trying to ignore that urge!). cheers

hello all, I am looking for advice on a good camera for lego shots. This may have been asked before but I can not find any suitable information. Firstly how much do I need to spend to get decent pictures? Is the number of megapixels important, and do all cameras come with a macro setting? I have a mini tripod (from a webcam), will this be suitable? Also, I plan to use the delay function ( I am thinking most cameras will have this) to minimise vibration, is this good practice? Can anyone recommend a suitable camera, ( I am in the UK ). Ideally I want the cheapest solution (hopefully under £50?) that will allow crisp shots, but do not want to waste money on one that is not really up to the job, only to find if I had put in another £10- £20 I could get what I want. I have no need to use this camera for anything else than lego shots, so I not worried by battery life/ memory etc. cheers mikey