Myxo

I built one a couple of years back I only dismantled the top deck a couple of months back still have the rest of it as it makes a good low loader . Oddly I dont seem to have any good photos of it, the best I found. http://hiddenforest.co.nz/CarTransporter.jpg Its fully remoter controlled including the 5th wheel, top ramp and lower.

Have you thought to try the 92911 Power Joint for the cup

I used a NXT as a controller for some time laps photography this would operate ever 2 mints for 5 days using one motor to open the lid of a petry dish and the other to turn the lights on, wake the camera up and then operate the shutter. https://www.flickr.com/photos/24634827@N02/7595874462/

I have also built a tri-star wheeled vehicle several times the last using power function motors rather then a NXT brick that I used the first time. http://hiddenforest.co.nz/personal/lego/legoa.htm#tristar

I am not sure if I like to be called an old timer even if at 56 I do feel like it at times. I never owned or had access to lego till i was in my 50'ies but have been making up for lost time since. I dont collect themes but build MOC with Technic and Mindstorms these dont last long once completed I soon have them dismantled for use in the next project.

I wonder if they are hard boiled first just in case something goes wrong :)

Have to agree with Zblj is rather colorful :) but then you use what you have! Nice car maybe the head lights need to be smaller.

I wonder if it would not be better to make each obstacle on its own base plate. This would allow you to transport / pack away easier as well as assemble it in any order or even add or remove obstacles.

Are there is an easy way to do this that still lets you use the battery box as designed. Cut two lengths of wooden dowel to a little less then length of a AA battery place a drawing pin in the end of each to both hold the wire from the DC power supply and act as a terminal. Place this into the batter box in place of the battery (you will need to work out were and get the polarity right). Then cut a small notch out of the cover for the wire and its done. I have not done this to a PF battery box but it is how I run my NXT brick.

Yes with out a problem, not sure how much weight could be in it as I never tried. It uses two L motors for this, as there is plenty of room I could if needed change the point of attachment so it would need less force to lift the tray. This also rotates to allow dumping of the load to the side of the truck.

By coincidence I had started building a EFT truck before I found this thread. Here is my attempt which has failed as I could not come up with a wheel structure strong enough not to collapse on turning. The only way round this that I can see is to go up in wheel size but with 20 wheels that's a cost I did not wish to meet. Update: I have since thought that I could have glued the axles onto the gears in the differentials but is that lego!! There are more photos of this on my website at http://hiddenforest.co.nz/personal/lego/lego13.htm

I think 3D printers are going to add a whole new dimension to lego (and other plastic construction sets). Can you imagine what its going to be like to be able to print out any lego part ever made in any colour you wish. Particularly when you are not even restricted to official lego parts but if you spend the time making the 3d cad file then anything is possible like a 25L Liftarm. The lego purist are going to have problems with this and its questionable if this would be lego. After all build in MOC with in the confinements of lego technics is half the challenge.