Lauris

Didn't you have a tan axle pin as a spare part in your set? As far as I remember - I used that.

Welcome back to a great hobby :) As DLuders correctly mentioned, there are two parts you have to think about: 1) the grey pin withs stop bush - instead of this I swaped the whole axle to 7L grey axle but you can probably leave the 5L axle there 2) the blue axle pin that should be replaced with tan axle pin w.o.friction I haven't tried the silicone yet, but I'll definetly do that later. about the LA - mines have the number 08x2 and 05x2 - and as confirmed by TLG - they are okay. Also, I remember, that there were some problems with the tracks wobbling too much - there was a thread in eurobricks here, how to solve it, but I didn't had the required spare parts, so I didn't do it. Sorry, I don't have much time, I can't find it right now - you should check the advanced search option...

So I should make the liftarm frames as tight as possible? All the official manuals says, that you should not squeeze the gears too much... On the other hand, I can visually see, that the small idler 12T-DB gear that is between the driver 12T-DB and follower 24T-W.Cl. gear on the winch and lift mechanism, will wobble a bit, when switching the motor movement direction. It is now on usual 90 dgr axle & pin connector with tan axle pin. (EDIT: I think, I'll not use any more axle pins in gearboxes - I changed the mechanism puting each gear on proper secured axle (a least 3L) and everything is fine now).

okay... a lot of trial and error, and I found a simpler solution to add the motors to the chassis. But there is a lot of wobbling and cracking sound somwhere. Is this because the 8T gear between 16T gears is moving around too much under stress (switching from driving forward to rear)??? It is now on 3L axis, that is fixed between two angled 3L axle/pin connectors. This is happening even if I try to drive backwards from full stoping e.g. without inertia effect due to the fact, that I used one 16T with clucth on the axis that's connected to the steering engine??? (EDIT: the 8T between 16T gears wasn't good idea as well... it was moving too much, that caused the cracks)

gotta try... thnx for sharing!

Dear Eurobricks members! As few minutes ago I finished my first LEGO Technic RC MOC chassis, I think it's good time to open up my MOC and WIP topic At this point for my awesome LEGO hobby I have 9395, 8081, 8208, 9392, 8043, 8070 and few hundered spare parts from bricklink For my first RC model I choose my slightly modified 9395 MOD. I managed to squeeze in two m-motors and steering with RTC brick, keeping the original dimensions. As the drive engine is on the right side of the car, I used 16t(on motor) + 8t + 16t w.clutch on steering motor axis + 16t gear on main axle combination. (EDIT: this wasn't good idea...) The problem is, that when I switch from driving forward, to driving backwards a cracking sound comes from the gears. I feel that this might be because due to the space limitations, I used axle pin connector w.o. friction, to add the 8t gear between the two 16t gears. As it isn't on fixed axle, it might move a bit. (EDIT: I fixed it later, but still, the concept was wrong) I used the same construction w axle/pin connector, to power the winch and lift (though with two db-12t gears powering 24t clutch gear), and without these side effects. OFC I will try to fix it myself, but in your opinion, is it ok or wrong to use axle/pin connector on gears in drivetrains?

thanks for your opinions - the test with driving a certain distance and measuring the time should work well

Dear EB members, I know that the set 8043 motorized excavator ir very popular among Technic fans. I have got mine few weeks ago and two days ago I finally built it and it is awesome. Nevertheless, I wanted to ask, how long the batteries will last if I drive it around every day for few minutes? I am asking, because I have created a LEGO Excavator challenge for my friends, that includes picking up a thingy and driving it to the other side of room, over some obstacles to put the thingy down in a marked spot. Of course, the time of the completion will be affected not only by the skills of operator, but by the previous usage time of batteries and the power left in them - so maybe someone has calculated the battery energy loss in 8043 during some time??? If yes, then I could develop some coeficient to make the challenge times more objective At this point it has regular duracells in it, I'll probably swap them to something rechargable later.

Ofc, if I had unlimited budget... but the choice was between Crawler and 8043... and knowing that 8043 probably will be discontinued in few months and then purchasing it via Bricklink should be a lot more expensive... I choosed the 8043. It took me ~6 hours together with sorting parts and some looking through eurobricks forum to fix some of the design issues of 8043, but I feel that it might have improven my technic understanding a lot more than crawler. And definetly it is fun! And I might get the crawler in some time later ;) So thanks for your advices and pics they are appreciated and I will put them to good use

Yes correct two motors to one axle. Ok, I think I got this visualised as well. Puting PF motors perpendiculary the diff will require two bevel gear connections to axis that will turn the diff. Thanks for pic!

Thanks for advice Yes, the gears might be different, I didn't pay much attention to them, the point was to show the idea, as truth will come with practice In few days I might try putting diferential between motors, although I can't imagine how it would look, so pictures are welcome And I will definetly make WIP/MOC topic, I already created a list of "must do" stuff, gotta pick up my last bricklink order and see what I can do

Hello, I got out of my dark ages few months ago and now I have 9395, 8081, 8070, 9392 and 8043 in my collection. As with 8043 comes PF IR receivers and 4 motors, I am thinking that at this point I might be able to do some nice MOC's as you all have doing here for long time, while I was living without LEGO (don't understand how it was possible ) so my question is to more experienced people than I am, if is this combination possible - putting two M motors aside to run one axle that powers the driving axle of some vehicle. Sorry for poor LDD pic, I haven't studied LDD a lot, so I don't understand how to connect parts that are not in the LDD floor level, so making this pic, took some time and the middle gear sticks out... hope you understand the idea... here's the pic: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?i=5612690 (I uploaded the file to brickshelf few miutes ago, so it might not be visible - alternate link to my blog: http://laurisklavins.blogspot.com/ ) I have all the parts to make such construction, but I don't want to break my motors if this is not a good idea (as the motors might run against each other and stall), so I wanted to ask - maybe someone has done this before? I think this construction would be somewhat more powerful than puting one motor to run the axle, as well it allows to keep differential benefits, as I would like to keep the original diff to keep the possible MOC small. Also, I think that I have seen the construction like this somwhere here in forum, but I can't find it anymore... Hoping for your advice and thanks for your time!

Uh, a lot of white bricks :) The MOC is cool, but the most I like the exhaust pipe design. And before I watched the video it looked like it might have space for PF... Thumbs up for Top Gear theme.

looks impressive. I will try this out, once I've built the A and B... unfortunatelly the 8043 is still unpacked.

I join your opinion - I want BLUE set as well :) and something with more LIME panels and liftarms than 9393.. love the color, but it is rather rare...

Very nice job. I would add a container, so it looks more "practical", even if it isn't

Nice idea! And as I see it from pictures - it can't slip out.

awesome!

Cool one! I thought nobody has done this as it is from soviet side of Iron Curtain and most people here are from W-Europe / N-America. Nevertheless, I hope to build my interpretation of this truck at some point in the future

I think you have to add more beams to the chassis, so it is more rigid. Keep us updated, looks it's gonna be nice

ofc Imagine, I had to get two sets - 9395 and 8081 only to get to a V8 which could be easily placed in any of theese sets...

I got this set few days ago and on the box there's a yellow text line "Limited Edition". Does anyone know what's so limited about it?

Nice review. This was my first Technic set, actually I still have it. Unfortunatelly, both 90 degree cross blocks broke rather fast... As it was around year 1999-2000, there was no way to get a replacement parts, here in Latvia. Fortunatelly, things have changed and now we have bricklink :)

What about tracked motorcycle like this:

Yes, I built the B-model and because I didn't like it, I rebuilt it in rather nice looking truck using only parts from 9395 and power functions 8293 - so now the winch and lift are motorized. Chek it out here in my blog (sorry, don't have a MOC page yet). http://laurisklavins.blogspot.com/ I took some time and made photo instructions as well as comments on the official manual, so those interested might re-create this truck. Here's some pics.