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Wapata

Eurobricks Vassals
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  1. Hi ! I had the two last pages to read and a question: in the end, won't you make a project to mimic interface-B but via WiFi or Bluetooth? Chance on me : I'm really really bad at coding, if i wasn't it will already be on my to-do list. (There is so many damaged 9v cables on the wild where you can take the connectos, such a project look realistic)
  2. This is very cool 😀 I don't have my computer near but is there also random numbers (with min and max) generator ? I will try to make a program to make a playable Crusher game.
  3. Annnnnd it work. Crazy that nobody corrected that since 1998, the game work in English and not in French ! Maybe I will have the courage to triple check in French later
  4. Little story : I have finally finished to make THE robot of CyberMaster and then try to play with it. You have to hit both shoulders then the front.. ... And it doesn't work. I've opened the brick, cleaned it, checked with blockly and it was fine ! Yeah ! But it still doesn't work in game ... So blockly is a great debugging tool, I'm sure everything should work. I will install CyberMaster in English to test, then make a blockly program to emulate the game (but the Lego game have a lot of sounds and voices..) Thanks again for Blockly !
  5. Yes ! At minima there is the "full programs in one code" for the Barcode scanner. I've made some pictures for you : https://photos.app.goo.gl/Jee7Xja96inBwZha8
  6. Because it work with two components, why use more ? Side note, how can I create a barcode dictionary with the ones I own, other than making a photo ? Because there is some in the manual that are nowhere on the internet... ... I need more serial and ttl devices
  7. If the idea is cool there is also a big risk of destroying previous program that happily worked before. Is there a way to reach a particular version in chrome ? In the saved program (in didn't looked if it is human readable with notepad or so) is there the version number used saved too ?
  8. I think I will use that to program stuff into the brick but use the sensor "telemetry" to interact with other stuff. Well... If two meters is an improvement. The range is not good... But the communication is a two way communication.
  9. It .. it ... It work flawlessly And finally it's super logic: the resistor "short" the button. So the red button look like it's 12ohms inactivated and "0ohm" pressed.
  10. Of course no without you and at least 3 other people here I won't be able to make anything. So no. That said, it's purely a chance factor a interface-B was offered to me last month, and I've got my CyberMaster 15 days ago. I've only finished to make a win98 computer inside my Linux laptop right now, to make the models and program them. ... .. and I have a second CyberMaster (without tower) since yesterday to continue using Blockly And I'm divorced and starting my 40 crisis, that's why I've looked for CyberMaster at first and why I've some time before and after work to try your new stuff. That said, without a manual, a new coming reader will be afraid to read the whole topic. And your are not alone to write it the day you want to ! Isn't some wiki stuff inside GitHub for that purpose by the way ?
  11. I'm an early follower of the topic but even me need a manual. Could we make a wiki one so everyone that know what he do can write down stuff, practical examples with attached program and screenshot? In the example section I will put programs to test input and output of devices I own for instance.
  12. Sorry but i don't think so.... i won't try to break a rare component if it work but the rectangle you see in the botom of the lego pin is grey... by reflection. Rhe rubber part pass trough it to touch the two metal plates. But... I do have some pictures of my grey one dismounted for reparation : To be clear : the resistor thing is a great idea but the rubber conductive part such a bad one it should ruin the effet. By the way : the "identification" is quite easy in theory : resistors in parallel so the ohm result of the 3 buttons pushed should be 1/r1 + 1/r2 + 1/r3 and so on for every situation... But the rubber part make soooo much ohm differences that it could not work great. I mean... now with Blockly we have the ability to see in live the input values... and see that it not at all a "full on / full off" device, but the value increase with the pression. EDIT : new page so i'm adding the other picture i'm proud of :
  13. Okay... my bad, sorry... here is my sensors : But it totally agree with that... and even repaired my sensors with a tape of cooper myself.
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