LegoLord1880

That sounds like a good plan, but i'm fresh out of Lego motors that are are not burned up (I have a bad habit of overloading them). Recently I saw a MOC on Rebrickable that used rubber bands to pull a 1L beam into the groove on a 3L driving ring. I have built the MOC, but I don't know if his mechanism will hold up when stressed. I need to shift pretty fast when rev-matching my vacuum engines. Here's a link to the MOC:https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-16840/Pleasedontspammebro/5-speed-gearbox-with-realistic-h-pattern-shift-neutral-and-optional-reverse/#details

A few months ago I decided to bite the bullet and order 3 of Lego's new 2L driving rings from the McLaren P1 so I could keep my parts up to date (and because I mostly build with studded Technic parts). I've been experimenting with manual transmissions with shift linkages using the new shift forks. I ran into problems getting the rings to hold in or out of gear like my 3L rings can. Is there a reliable way of getting the rings to snap into gear and hold position?

If you are trying to get POWER out of a Lego vacuum engine, you'll want multiple cylinders(3 cylinders are EXCELLENT at this) If you're going for a speed record, a single-cylinder engine is the way to go. if you really want a faster engine with more than one cylinder, I suggest you make valve timing for each individual cylinder, so they don't "stumble" over each other when firing.

HI everybody! A while back(before I did Rebrickable or EB), I built a transmission out of a Ford Model T. It is much different than almost any other gearboxes today, whether Lego or real. The real one from 1908 was like a modern automatic transmission. it had 2 planetary gear drums, one for first and second gear(the car only had 2 forward gear ratios to offer), and another for reverse. There was also a solid metal drum in the transmission for the singular brake, and a handbrake lever in the cab which put the car into neutral, then pulled the brake pedal to the floor.My Lego MOC of about a year ago only had the clutch and handbrake for controls( please look up a video of how to drive a model T to know what I'm talking about). I used a differential clutch for that MOC, which had a rubber tire connected by gear to a differential case. stopping this tire made the clutch transmit power. this was connected by a linkage to the changeover catch for a 2 speed manual gearbox. When shifting slowly from first to second gear, this would happen: the linkage would open the clutch, move the driving ring past neutral and into second gear, then close(engage) the clutch. this linkage was always reliable for me, and always resulted in a very smooth gear change.Would anybody be interested in instructions for something like this, but with all 3 pedals(clutch/shifter, brake and reverse)? I originally had this as a workbench post on Rebrickable. Please private message me here: - link removed - with your questions, comments, or concerns. Thank you for reading!