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SlyOwl

Eurobricks Fellows
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Everything posted by SlyOwl

  1. It should also be possible to use a vector-based solution, which would enable finer angles than 90'. Using cartesian axes, North and East are the positive directions (all compass-points are fixed to the robot). Have the 4 sensors at 90' angles to each other. Call the angle the robot needs to move at to get to the brightest light A, measured clockwise from North. Thus, we resolve to get: North - South = resultant vertical vector (V), and East - West = resultant horizontal vector (H). And then some simple trigonometry to find the angle: TanA = H/V, so A = Arctan(H/V). This process can be constantly repeated, as once it has rotated to the correct angle, the horizontal resultant vector will equal 0, so only the vertical is relevant, which will be in the direction of the light source. In terms of programming, you will want it to stop when it reaches the brightest light - so by taking the magnitude of the resultant vector, if it = 0, then the robot should stop moving (as it has reached its destination). Thinking about taking the project further, what if two equally bright lights are placed equidistant from the robot? It should end up finding the midpoint between them, providing the program works as it should. But it hasn't reached a point of maximum brightness (generally, speaking - it does depend how close the lamps are and how bright they are - the overlap area could be brighter than directly below a single lamp). A random movement function once it has reached equilibrium could resolve this - eg. it moves NW for 0.5 seconds. If there are equidistant lamps, it will then no longer be in the middle, and one will be brighter than the other (to the robot), so it will move in that direction. If it has genuinely reached the brightest point, then the program will move it back to the brightest point. A counter could be used to prevent it repeatedly moving randomly once it has reached equilibrium. Ach, I've been rambling on - apologies if none of this has been helpful! Good luck with the project - it's the kind of thing I would love to do. I'm afraid I'm no help with the programming, as I only have the RIS 2.0...
  2. I was nervously anticipating this result - as I couldn't think of what else could have won! Although, as they said about Dungeons and Dragons, the poll wasn't the fairest as it was online - and as far as I know, the people who are most likely to vote online are the wealthier types - which fits Lego's target customers better... ...but I still concur with the result!
  3. Fine grain cotton (tshirt stuff) works well. Paint it with 1:5 PVA:water solution, dry and bingo! Works well enough for me.
  4. I'm partial to my own design, although Tbone's looks incredible (haven't seen it before).
  5. ...and the links are still messed up at the bottom of the index! (also, could you add this one? Thanks )
  6. SlyOwl

    Old Mill

    Wow, what a detail-packed MOC! I love the building on the right - never seen such a steep roof before, but I like it a lot. Really great idea with the hinged roof crest - compact and effective, and solves that eternal problem! Well done.
  7. I like to stack these - (using technic pins ad lightsaber bars) on top of the mast - lets you extend it indefinitely and attach spars where you want (normally using some other technic parts). Another good trick is to put a mast base onto the crow's nest, and then carry on builgin upwards - you can get 5 sections in this way.
  8. Here you go (pic is link to bigger version - 1200x1200 approx) I'll see what can be done about the other tents.
  9. Not that I know of; I'm sure they could be added to the Sail Library, were scans to be obtained. Scans, anyone? I can provide the black Adventurers tent, if anyone wants it.
  10. If the collect-vouchers-and-send-them-off thing is in a similar vein to previous promotional offers from the Daily Mirror, I might be able to help you, Whitefang and Shadows
  11. No, but I find it interesting that your middle mast section has a different bottom from all of mine; mine only have recessed bottoms, without that protruding hollow lump in the middle (which presumably makes it a better fit). Mine are from the original BSB and SES. Also, I have two types of the top mast piece. On the very top arm (for attaching the sails), on the back, one has molded triangulation - just a small triangle of plastic. All my others don't have this.
  12. Hey, good to see you here! As I said on Flickr, I'm really impressed how you managed to build such a good replica, whilst adding your own unique touches and styles You used LDD in its design? Impressive idea; I'd have never thought of doing something so complicated on it. Here she be. The deck tiling is my fault; I prefer it that way! I never actually thought to look up how it should go, to be honest. I recently rebuilt my ship for STEAM, except with improvements, including your recommendation to lower the spanker and to raise the bowcastle. I haven't got round to totally finishing it yet (eg. it needs a flag on the stern and the horizontal bits on the ratlines need putting in), let alone photographing it, but here's a photo from the show. I think it hasn't yet been published (to maintain a regular news flow), but expect to see it there in the near future!
  13. I wouldn't have thought so. From experience, the WHSmiths at travel hubs don't stock them; the ones at King's Cross, Euston, Victoria, London Bridge - none of them do. Plus, wouldn't small, sealed mystery packets be banned on aeroplanes?
  14. As others have said, great MOC! I especially like the burning sail, and the sense of fun I get from this. Interesting choice on the green flowers on the back of the BSB-esque ship. Keep it up
  15. Ahoyhoy. I find the basic principle is to make a hole in the roof and clip flame pieces inside, adding some charred timbers (black plates) for effect. Here's a few examples (pics are links) - You may find some more inspiration in the Land Based MOC Index. Hope this helps.
  16. There will be a couple of Bricklink vendors at STEAM, yes. Certain store vendors will also be there (not sure if they'll be vending, though) - so you could theoretically skip postage costs by asking to pick up there. I presume you two are coming? I'll be there all weekend - at dawn, look to the east (or some such!)
  17. I'll point you towards the Sail Library and the Decal Index, both of which have designs you may find helpful.
  18. It's two weeks away now, anyone else plan to be there? I'll be there the whole weekend, bringing some new MOCs, some old favourites and some re-jigs.
  19. Excellent MOC, and welcome to Eurobricks! I love your landscaping; it's very refreshing to see such a mix of natural colours in both rock and grass/dirt. I love the angled portion of the fort - have you thought about ways to get a cleaner join at the bottom in the middle? Perhaps having two angled walls at the base, with 1x2x3 slopes on the end - something like this, only at a tighter angle on the base. I really like the fire/rubble explosions. The half-ship is very unique, and I enjoyed the interior (even if it feels a little bare - where are all the gunners and powder monkeys?). I'm not so much a fan of the brick-built sails, but I can understand the look you were going for. The overhanging windows at the back are excellent. I would complain that the surf follows the shoreline a bit too regularly - in my book, it shouldn't. I'm interested in the missiles/cannonballs? Are they some sort of transitional projectile, between shells and regular roundshot? Great MOC, really well done; keep it up!
  20. Just thought I'd throw in my lot - there's an interesting review of Nanoblocks here, which partly compares them to Modulex. I'm doing a dissertation-type thing on Modulex at the moment, so if anyone wants to talk Modulex over the next few months, talk away!
  21. I'd be most happy to take the discoloured bricks off your hands! Mainly the white ones. (are you coming to STEAM?)
  22. Picture-wise, see these tutorials, mainly the second and third ones. It's far more efficient to use another website to host the images - ie. Brickshelf.com. Hornbricker has made some modifications to the MMV (or at least based his on the MMV) - see the topics at the bottom of =1&view_by_title=1&st=25"]this page. It's certainly true that the MMV buildings fit very well into a piratical context, with very little modifications at all.
  23. Well said, sah! I'll be in the middle of my A2s - but not to worry! Lego always takes priority; currently I'm supposed to be doing personal statement etc, but I'm just flat-out preparing for STEAM.
  24. Really good build - the slightly curved main supports in particular are exceptional. As you said, it is a very clean build Was the length of the flex tubing the determining factor in the scale? - it fits perfectly. I had to build one of these bridges for an engineering project once; an aluminium bridge, with a Lego Dacta (from the 80's, no less!) motor to control the shuttle - do you have plans to automate it in any way? Keep up the good work
  25. I personally find Stephen Biesty's Man-Of-War cross-sections book to be an invaluable resource for ship building; it may be based off the HMS Victory, but it can probably be applied to French vessels without much innaccuracy. (Mine is actually part of Biesty's Ultimate Cross-Sections Book, but essentially is the same). And, of course, if you haven't already found them, the Ship MOC index (or the sorted-by-type version) and the rest are worth a look through for ideas. Picking one out, Infomaniac's Coconut is a good example of a playable yet good looking ship.
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