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AbleChristopher

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by AbleChristopher

  1. AbleChristopher
    Yeah I plan to reinforce the whole assembly, with some thin liftarms and probably will double up the brick tower if not convert the whole thing to technic liftarms and connectors. Thats great feedback that you have had issues with the bricks/plate method, I will almost certainly convert the whole thing to be a technic assembly.
  2. AbleChristopher
    I am hoping for speed and strength. My worry with one L motor is that I won't have enough torque to pull a significant consist. The gear ratio should actually be 3:5 to the driven axle (20 tooth gear down to a 12 tooth gear) which is then connected to XXL diameter drivers. I think that one L motor wont provide enough torque to get a significant consist rolling. Ultimately I would like this to have a fast running speed, akin to the real life counterpart.
  3. AbleChristopher
    @zephyr1934 I agree, axle connectors are a must in my opinion, otherwise all the strain is being put on the main rod which is brittle and more for show anyway (on Lego models). I used that bevel gear system through the frame on the Mercury with a motor assembly like option 2 above, but option 1 is probably much stronger. I have come up with a third option...both motors will turn in the same direction relative to their orientation here (i.e. one of them will have the polarity reversed on the controller). Gears are in blue so they are easier to see.
  4. AbleChristopher
    Thank you very much! Gotta love that two-tone gray paint scheme with Armor Yellow lettering and striping. I plan to issue two versions of this locomotive, one in two-tone gray with yellow accents and one in freight black with white accents as she is seen today. A mid 1940's version and a 1950's to present day version, if you will.
  5. AbleChristopher
    Gorgeous model, Glenn! I love those hand pieces holding up the railings along the smokebox. And well done on the protruding front plate at the head of the locomotive, very detailed and looks like it was a pain to stabilize. What would you say was the most challenging part of this build?
  6. AbleChristopher
    That is great feedback @engineermax, thank you for commenting. Option 1 Option 1 should be a 1:1 gear ratio, it goes up in size to transfer the power vertically but then back down in size where the gear attaches to the driver axle. I think I do have room to fit both motors in line with each other (instead of facing each other) and have one motor power one flanged driver and the other motor power the other flanged driver. Do you think that if one motor is running slightly faster than the other, since the drivers are all connected, that it would stress the motors or the coupling rod too much? Option 2 You're seeing the whole picture, I believe (based on gear size) that it should be 1:1 also and give me the same speed and torque as option 1. In your experience, do you think a 1:1 gear ratio is adequate (i.e. the standard speed and torque of the L motors is enough)? One of the elements here that I have been scratching my head over is exactly what you point out: one motor being stronger/faster than the other. Since I will likely buy used motors I presume this will be the case and I don't want to burn one out. I don't think that I have enough room to put in a differential assembly.
  7. AbleChristopher
    Hello all, I am hoping to start a discussion on the types of geared power systems that folks in this forum use to power their steam locomotive MOC's, specifically larger builds with 3 or 4 driving wheels. I am partway through a build of a Union Pacific FEF-3: #844. I want to power this locomotive with two large power function motors (Item No: 99499c01) and I am struggling with choosing the appropriate gear assemblage to transfer the power to the drivers. The pictures below are the two methods I have been experimenting with. Assemblage #1 is the power system used on Brickmania's S160 Locomotive recreated here for demonstration only. Assemblage #2 is just a basic motor to driver setup. Rumor has it that the NYC Mohawk from Brickmania is powered by two sets of the S160 gear/motor assemblies, can anyone verify this? My goal is to make the #844 model true to her real life counterpart - very fast and very powerful. The renders were made quick and dirty, please excuse the clipping of parts, they are just to show the two systems. Any good ideas? Thank you all! Overall locomotive: Gear assemblage #1: Gear assemblage #2
  8. AbleChristopher
    Thanks @MontyMatte! I am currently selling the build as part of a full kit but since shipping to Germany would be incredibly expensive (I am US based) then feel free to just message me on Etsy and I am sure we can figure something out for the .pdf file. https://www.etsy.com/listing/1249531185/walt-disney-world-mini-magic-kingdom?click_key=2c9394acea2281c1e48da446fd564cbd7aef866b%3A1249531185&click_sum=f740ee4f&ref=shop_home_active_2
  9. AbleChristopher
    To celebrate the 50th anniversary of Walt Disney World, I created a mini version of the Cinderella Castle in Magic Kingdom with a Florida sunset backdrop! https://www.flickr.com/photos/192470194@N02/52139364815/in/album-72177720299715780/ The scene is inspired by Jan Woźnica's space series, I highly suggest you check out their work.
  10. AbleChristopher
    Thank you both! That was one of the difficult parts of this build, the diameter of those driver wheels is so small, they leave only about 2 plates worth of clearance below the center of the axle which left little room to be creative.
  11. AbleChristopher
    @dr_spock you are a legend. These should work beautifully. Thank you very, very much. I have been searching for a long time for something like this.
  12. AbleChristopher
    Thank you for the replies everyone, it was all very helpful. The closest I think we can all get to boxpok driver files at this point is through the link @Matt Dawson provided ( https://www.brecklandbricks.com/resources). Bulleid-Firth-Brown style will have to work for now, I can resize them to the BBB XXL size that I need for my next project, a Northern. Jeff over at the PNW Steam Shop is the only one I have seen with a stud.io render of a boxpok driver and he may have done that in house, his models are top of the line. Boxpok driver Stud.io files can be found here: https://www.habricks.com/product-categorie/wheels/#
  13. AbleChristopher
    They are small! Those driver wheels are only 44 inches. I have more stats on my Flickr album if you're interested: https://api.flickr.com/photos/192470194@N02/albums/72157719589534549 She handles pretty well, I'll try and get a video of her running. Thanks Asper, sounds like others would enjoy seeing it run too. I'll see what I can put together.
  14. AbleChristopher
    Thanks Feuer! Those are kind words, means a lot.
  15. AbleChristopher
    Question for the community: I am looking for model files for either Shupp's or Brick Train Depots boxpok drivers. Does anyone know if there is an STL file floating around out there that I can import into Stud.io? Thank you!
  16. AbleChristopher
    That's a great question, I would say the high and low pressure cylinders. That and the fancy footwork I had to do within the boiler to make sure that it could support the various detail elements like the running boards along the smokebox. For this model I wanted to incorporate a lot of detail without sacrificing structural integrity.
  17. AbleChristopher
    Just recently finished another build, for this one I went in a very different direction from my last and focused on a Baldwin 2-6-6-2 which would have been found across many Pacific NW logging railroads with many modifications and variants. For my build I focused on the U.S. Plywood Corp #11 in its 1939/present day configuration. I am a big fan of these turn of the 20th century logging railroad workhorses and particularly love the Baldwin Mallet 2-6-6-2's (or 2-6-6-2 t's or 2-6-6-2 t&t's etc). Built to be both powerful and agile, this Mallet locomotive used all the steam energy it possessed from both its high- and low-pressure cylinders to haul western redcedars, douglas-firs and western hemlocks, which often weighed up to 2,000 tons, up and down steep, hastily built logging railroad grades. True to the real life version of this locomotive, it is designed to handle tight corners and steep grades. It is 8-wide, 1:48 scale, and is designed to handle all standard Lego track curvature.
  18. AbleChristopher
    Thank you very much, yes that is my next goal, The Mercury has gorgeous discs put over her 1930s pacific type drive wheels but I don't think that can be modeled without one single custom mold. Powering is the next step, it is designed to have motors, two within the boiler and the battery pack in the tender, but funding was running low so I skipped it for now. When I get it powered I will post here again! Thanks Tube, I had built it all in studio and it looked great, but when I physically built it the pilot and rear truck didn't want to move more than like 1 degree and plating was getting snagged on itself and falling off. They were both rebuilt many times. I didn't know the term at the time (SNOT) but I am certainly familiar with it now, anytime I joined together SNOT and studs on top areas I really had to problem solve, nothing lined up exactly right at first. I learned all about 1/2, 1/3 and tiny 1/6th steps. Thank you Shiva! Thank you, I was hoping someone would pay attention to that picture haha, there is a light in there similar to the lights the real Mercury used to light up it's drivers at night. Not sure LED lighting the whole thing is part of my goal list, but it would definitely be awesome.
  19. AbleChristopher
    Hey SteamSewnEmpire, I hate to see things go this way, I really like your model as well. I did a lot of research for this project and I wont pretend that I didn't see your post on here, just like I saw posts by many Lego creators building all kinds of streamlined designs. I guess all I can say is that we modeled the same thing, and when trying to replicate a streamlined locomotive with non-modified lego pieces there is only so many you can pull from for the locomotive exterior, especially since the real Mercury's shroud is in sectioned plating like we've both modeled. If you look at the front of the locomotive, the pilot truck, drivers, valve gear, trailing truck, cab and so on however, there are clear distinct differences which would of course require different internals. Counting pieces it looks like mine is shorter too and obviously the tenders are quite different. We also have different designs to address the handling of lego curves, which requires a different internal frame and so on...so yeah like I said, I do like your model, and by posting my attempt at this build I didn't mean to squash yours. Cheers
  20. AbleChristopher
    The model has room for two medium motors within the boiler and a battery pack and receiver within the tender (tender roof is removable).
  21. AbleChristopher
    Thank you Glenn, I am a big fan of your builds, specifically the Buffalo Creek #13 and the NYC L-2a Mohawk. My next build will be a Baldwin 2-6-6-2t, specifically the U.S. Plywood Corp. #11, and you better believe those two will be held as examples of prime piping and valve gear assemblies.
  22. AbleChristopher
    Thanks Viscount!
  23. AbleChristopher
    Thank you! No actually, all pieces are standard lego pieces. I appreciate the kind words, the cab windows had a few revisions to say the least haha.
  24. AbleChristopher
    Hello! I wanted to share with you all my most recent build,The New York Central K-5b Pacific Class 4-6-2 #4915 with Henry Dreyfuss' streamline design, otherwise known as The Mercury. The model is 8-wide and is designed to fit all standard lego track geometry.
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