killerfrost

Very nice, the metal cv axle is .5mm off the wheel bearing because of the snap ring inside the hub but has the same pivot angle as the newer cv part lego makes.

sweet! i made changes to the transfer case design to use 6 of the smaller R156ZZ bearings. https://bricksafe.com/files/Killerfrost/truck/new-project/Transfer case.stl caster hub https://bricksafe.com/files/Killerfrost/truck/new-project/Caster hub.stl regular hub https://bricksafe.com/files/Killerfrost/truck/new-project/hub.stl large spindle https://bricksafe.com/files/Killerfrost/truck/new-project/large spindle.stl small spindle https://bricksafe.com/files/Killerfrost/truck/new-project/small spindle.stl

I'll post the updated gearbox later tonight. im thinking of using 2 bearing per axle hole. there 2.5 mm tall and i have 8 mm to work with, i figure one on each side of the axle hole. it would use 6 bearings in total if i go that route. thoughts?

looking at the sizes, these wont work in the wheel hubs as its an either or for the bearing or spindle, the black one has the bearing in it. i will incorporate the R156ZZ into the transfer case though as that just takes axels. https://www.zenebricks.com/products/high-performance-rc-brushless-esc-accessories-for-motorized-lego

the part in blue is where the bearing sits. the part to the right is where the the cv axle and the spindle or bearings fit into. the purple cone is the slope for the spindle to snap into place. thank you, i will look into those and make design tweaks

i didnt know about those size bearings, i can definitely resize the holes to accommodate those. I went with the larger ones because of the wheel hub design. i wanted to make it dual function and give the printed spindle more surface area to sit on when its snapped into place. the 2.5mm is really thin for just plastic and it seemed fitting to make the part atleast a half stud (4mm). the part in purple sits inside the hub. this is where the 10x5x4 bearings to go into that hole instead of the spindle.

I would like the file to be able to print this.

Here's a few parts i made that work with RC parts as well as lego parts. The idea for these was to use the new CV axle with the wheel hubs as well as be able to insert a 10x5x4mm bearing to convert to metal rc parts. the transfer case takes those same wheel bearings and the motor set up from here ( https://www.zenebricks.com/products/high-performance-rc-brushless-esc-accessories-for-motorized-lego) and any lego diff. so far ive tested these with pla and works great. the opening for the wheel hub also fits any metal cv axle that is 11mm in diameter or smaller. tested with pla @100%infill and printed at a 45 degree from table and so far no issue. printing the spindles flat caused them to snap in half from my experience. could also be my printer too. https://www.printables.com/model/1266255-rc-lego-parts

Here's the 3 versions of the wheel hubs, the black hub has a caster angle of 14 degrees which allows for a 1 stud offset from upper and lower ball joints, the small hub, this is the only way I can think of to make it useable in the same fashion as the caster and regular hub. The regular hub has the small spindle snapped in and the cv fits in very nicely. these are printed on my cheap elegoo printer with pla. If you want the stl's, my bricksafe url will be below. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Killerfrost/truck/new-project

I'm working on making a transfer case that the surpass motor snaps into and using 10x5x4mm bearings to support the axles and can use the lego diff's. 3:1 or 2:1 reduction from the motor will keep the axles from twisting with 1 motor and provide plenty of power to move the vehicle with ease. I'm trying to keep it contained in a 5x7 rectangle liftarm. Without the motor it will be 5x7x8. With motor it will be 5x7x11 studs.

These hubs are designed to use the newer cv joint as well as have a 10x5x4 mm bearing and a metal cv axle with a max diameter of 11 mm. There's 3 different hubs, the small and large hubs plus a universal caster hub. The caster hub is made with a 14 degree negative caster which fits on a 1 stud offset between the upper and lower ball joint. The spacer is to in-between the metal cv axle and the bearing since theres a small gap (>1mm) from the lip the spindles snap into. Hopefully the link works The part you made should work with these parts. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Killerfrost/truck/new-project I will upload the studio files to bricksafe as well to share as well as pictures of the 3d printed parts.

I’m not above modifying parts that are already aftermarket to make something work. I’ve already been able to fit the diff cup into the wheel hub. I can post pictures when I get home from work. this is the part I got to fit with minimal modification. https://a.co/d/7XBGO4E

@Ryokeen I would like to see the specs of the metal cv joint. I’m using 1/8 wheel hubs that @ZENE has and trying to make an awd car. https://www.zenebricks.com/collections/technics-super-speed-rc/products/lego-rc-accessories-bearing-drive-axle-compatible id drill out the center and slide that cv setup you have in

This car is amazing and i wanted to improve on the model so i made a awd version with a 2 speed gearbox. the current build has 2 Buwizz buggy motors and a buwizz 3.0 battery box. i was wondering what you all think of this version of the chassis. its still a work in progress. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Killerfrost/icarus-supercar-2.0

the idea was to make a GMC Jimmy/ K5 Blazer at a 1/10 scale with the inspiration from Nico71 and their truck model. This beast has the following features HOG steering with ackerman steering full independent suspension with swaybars modified version of landrover gearbox working wench all wheel drive removeable cap The idea was to make a truck that looks as badass as Nico71's F150 but also be the same size as the lego extreme adventure truck. The general idea ; I'm still working on getting all the issues worked out but would like some help. https://bricksafe.com/pages/Killerfrost/truck studio file This is what the model looks like now with current attempt. I went with the last generation of GMC trucks body because i think it looks better and the current generation has alot of weird angles that i cant do with lego. with the cap on: The biggest goal was to make the frame as compact and solid as much as possible while still keeping the entire drivetrain contained inside the frame. to do this I used a slightly modified version of the gearbox from Pimp my Landrover thread. the drivetrain and suspension layout