NoEXIST

Thanks for the answers @janssnet @gyenesvi As I can see and understand, we just did choose different path to put more power into our models. I myself try to make the actual transmission stronger by designing some specific parts that can give me some benefits of hobby grade RC cars design. For example I've made some modifications to lego differentials and new mounting system to eliminate backlashe where it shouldn't be. So now differential mounting doesn't rely on CV joints. I also have found a photo of my brishless attempt, but i would like to put some of newer custom parts I designed to similar chassis and finally glue the tires to the rim itself (that was the biggest bottleneck) That's great to see a track usage of self designed chassis! Unfortunately I didn't manage to find any in my locality, however I alse had my hands on something rc racing related. I was designing a retro gt12 inspired chassis for my college. I had only one opportunity to properly try it out, but I was really surprised how nicely it felt on carpet even with lego tires on. I had to create a ball-differential for this car and now I'm really curious to try creating comething similar for a lego model

It was kinda interesting to read some lastest "innovations" in inserting brushless into lego. However I can't really understand the point in using ESC's designed for flying vehicles in cars Maybe I'm just too "oldschool" in this term, but I would prefer one powerful enough Motor and ESC or in case of reusing lego motors - one powerful enough ESC to power all the motors that are used for propulsion. Hopefully someone will be able to explain the idea to me... I also have done some attempts to jump into bigger brushed and brushless motors in my MOCs but not really tested at full load yet. Now I'm aiming to make a lego equivalent of Losi nascar cars as I was pretty close to it using buggy motors. I also have been working on my RC system in one brick, however it seems like now you guys are not interested even in buggy motors anymore

It has some advantages even with low power, but yeah the biggest point is that it won't be PF compatible anymore.

That was very similar to a buwizz design. Standard pins were placed to touch PF connectors. I will be able to to show the part maybe tomorrow. However I don't really think this is the best way of connection for increasing power. JST instead of PF would be all the way better:)

You probably can try to print it right with those 3d models, however pcb designing is the whole other world where the most important would be dimensions and pin placement in general

I do have a buwizz so I can try to make a part that will help with transition between jst and PF connectors Glad to hear people are still interested. I'm alright but I was kinda inactive with this project, I'm busy studying. However I do have some plans to try with new versions of RCDeck. Right now I'm waiting for another ESC option. Previous ones didn't fit requirements. @FriedlS Nice way to give your buwizz a new live:) During this time I got some more CAD and 3D printing skills to improve quality:)

Most of the motors still have less current draw than a buggy motor, but the point was to load it more than 4 buggy motors might do. Interesting for me is that it works fine with this amount of motors, but not with 4 cada buggy motors. Also, all of these ports are still synchronised. Technically it's one port powered by a single ESC

Trying to figure out if there's a problem with new version of RCDeck unit or with my 4 cada buggy motors. (there's a throttle delay and similar things) During previous days I built the RCDeck and exchanged whole electronic units trying to find the issue. Seems like it was not the components issue. Trying to find more arguments to say that's the motors fault and move on! With all my remaining motors it seems to work fine. But I'm still not sure

Working on connections layout and trying to build one.

I added some instructions about first samples in the beginning of the first post in this topic.

Well, actually more I'm hanging around this topic, more I understand this is not really a right way. Now as I was testing new components and it was simply easier to throw everything in a car:) Seems like this topic is showing me maturing into a real RC hobby grade electronics:) In my opinion separate housings are just a way to go!

Yeah, those esc's are also usually being described differently, even through it's the same damn thing. Now I have this one to thinker about. This one is clearly rated for 4s so we do have a clearance. Although it's rated 10A It was working with 4 buggy motors without a problem. No matter how are you going on throttle. You can pretty much do whatever you want with your throttle! However it has a weak BEC circuit which cannot handle a geekservo as it is(it can provide 0,5A). So because PU isn't THAT useful thing for such type of bricks I'm about to leave it without one. But instead of it, there's going to be a dedicated UBEC controller (it's continuous current is scheduled to 1,5A which is probably enough for typical 1/10 scale servo) allowing you use something more than only geekservo. For example more torque or speed rc servo. All of these in a new body:) With 4 full size PF ports and more convenient build. Port and ESC arrangement required a little bit different body... so it's completely new. Hoping for a better cable management too!

This is actually a nice idea. Definitely going to so this as soon as possible!

Time will show us how it goes

Every of them were tested, at least one 3s pack with my skyline. I don't know if my driving style is that comfy for the electronics pr there's a different reason. In your case there probably will be a shipping. And then there's a risk of burning an ESC with not careful enough driving. (I ran exact your one with 3s 5000mah 65c battery, I have no clue how the hell it can handle this, but die using 2L motors in other case) The only thing I wasn't playing around is 2s or 3s. Always 3s and no problems. From this judgement comes out the problem-free use of 2S. Surprisingly, all the damaged bricks were damaged from use with similar 3S batteries. As far as I know you wanted to use it with 2s, maybe yours is safe? I got a sample, but as I said I can't just put it inside an actual version of the brick