-
Posts
331 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About MP LEGO Technic creations

Spam Prevention
-
What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
Technic
-
Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
42128
Profile Information
-
Gender
Male
-
Interests
LEGO
Extra
-
Country
Czech Republic
-
Special Tags 1
http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technicgear2.png
-
Special Tags 2
https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/public/style_images/tags/technic_gold.png
Recent Profile Visitors
6,787 profile views
-
Possibly a few new technic elements in dark green. #4 135° angled connector and Liftarm bent 3x3 is included in (?) Pearl gold.
- 5,445 replies
-
- rant!
- Bionicle Technic
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Here is a photo of the current state of the chassis. Somewhat limited playability has been slightly improved by switching the steering gear ratio right before the medium LA from 12-12 to 20-12, since less steering force is required when the steering wheel is fixed in place. Otherwise, I have started with the drive shaft (I was very pleased with how barrel pieces can hide those large CV joints ). More importantly, after almost a month, I have finally figured out (at least partially) solutions to some of the issues. Since reinforcing the connection in between rims and wheel hubs themselves proved to be tricky, I have implemented another recent thought which crossed my mind. Specifically stabilising the wheels against their axle and (potentially) decrease the forces causing the wheels to fall off. Like one would limit the amount of play in any turntable, these wheels are large enough to fit a similar solution. I went with 'round girder', because a circle made of small curved gear racks (though these offer more favourable mounting points) of the same size would presumably tend to split into pieces and as the rim's beams slide directly on the surface of the support, any roughness will likely prevent rotation. The specific distance of the support is achieved by some bars, bushes and 1/2 pins. Additionally, this whole contraption required further reinforcements, therefore a 6L link has been placed under both steered wheels. The rear axle utilises the same solution, the lack of steering allows easier bracing. All in all, after some initial testing the stability seems to be about twice as good (and the wheels still eventually fall off). The yellow support rings will be replaced with DBG ones. And let's not forget that now this ridiculous contraption better resembles the brakes of the original while not introducing that much of friction. Furthermore, positive caster has been increased as well. Apart from that, the A-pillars have been significantly rebuilt and a bit of work has been also done on the doors (now with a working lock and a door handle on a completely wrong spot). Thanks for reading & have a great day.
-
Since the initial post, I have made the door slightly larger, as suggested by @Michael217. According to my measurements in Sariel's Model Scaler (based on car's aforementioned side profile photo), the door should be 185-190 mm tall and about 210 mm wide to form an ellipse. So far I have achieved a symmetrical round-ish shape by inserting 3L thin liftarms in between each of curved segments. Thus the diameter has been increased to 23 studs (184 mm), which means a difference of 2 studs. Additionally, the brick-built cover of this technic structure has been rebuilt in order to leave no visible curved gear racks behind, therefore, I believe, it is possible to talk about a total size increase of 3 studs. The surrounding black frame has also undergone a few changes in order to accomodate the larger door, the most significant of them being the B-pillar, which has been moved towards the rear by two studs. Unfortunately, I do not think there will be any way to make the door elliptic (rather impossible) or oval, as this would require some significant changes to the whole frame. My further intentions include moving the doors' hinge further forward, as well as replacing the current door with something less crude and colourful looking. Although my Bentley looks quite good next to this RR, here is a size comparison with the only assembled 1:8 vehicle from my collection
-
It has been a while since I took a part in a contest, yet I cannot recall seeing a discussion about such matter. As I would like to understand this (at least for me) new voting rule, I have tried searching the forum as well as manually scrolling through some pages. Could someone please explain it a bit more / tell me which thread should I focus on a little more next time?
-
Admittedly, I have not checked the size of the doors, as this is their very first version. I indeed agree with you, an increase in size is necessary. Initially, I thought the large curved gear racks would be sufficient, yet that proved to be false. Longitudal size can be increased fairly easily by inserting a few studs to create an oval shape, while the real car seems to have rather elliptic doors. By doing so on each side, I am afraid the door would take a square-ish shape instead, therefore a completely different approach might be needed in case of a complete reshape. On the other hand, I have checked the shape of both front and rear wheel wings (I hope either of us meant those aerodynamic wheel cowlings/mudguards) according to a 3D model I have found online in the very beginning. The visual impression could be caused by some of these factors (or all of them): • Wrong interpretation of the model's curves when creating the 'reference brick sculpture' I have compared it to afterwards. • Insufficient curvature of the wings' edges that makes them look taller. • Too much of ride height or mudguard clearance that gives the model such a tall stance. Of course, I might be completely wrong
-
Thanks! Initially, I've thought about unicorn horns but the parts you have suggested seem to have a thinner top with smoother surface, therefore suit the purpose better. The question is, will these fit under hubcaps or are they going to stick out more than acceptable? A few screws could also be utilised, otherwise I indeed se no other purist way than using a turntable. So far, I feel I have been careful enough with the amount of stress on each part (apart from the wheel hubs, apparently), though Studio shows many pins painted red when checking for stability. However, it even happens in so strange places, that I find hard to believe is accurate. Thank you! The only less stable area of the initial digital design turned out to be the A-pillars, which, due to their angle, are not capable of supporting additional weight when put on the roof. I believe I have solved that by adding another support to form a triangle. The first version of the steering was using a planetary wheel hub and a gear rack. Due to the car's weight was the steering influenced rather by any roughness of the floor than by the steering wheel. Therefore, it was clear that I needed another solution. In this situation, a worm gear does not seem to be robust enough, so I opted for a linear actuator. You are absolutely right with the gearing. Previous 20-12 gearing was removed as the steering felt somewhat heavy. Now it takes like 10 rotations to each side to turn the vehicle, yet it is smooth and light enough even when the car is stationary. But let's be honest, a meter long car in itself cannot be considered a very playable and practical toy
-
Hi everyone! I am back with yet another WIP topic. In search for a rather special classic vehicle about a month ago, I have found this one. What can be more splendid than a one-off coachbuilt Rolls-Royce in a spirit of art deco is? Equipped with its eye-catching circular doors, it is sometimes referred to as the Rolls-Royce Round Door Coupe. More info about this vehicle can be found on the website of Petersen Automotive Museum. As I intend it to be somewhat monumental, the largest wheels and tyres in production are the clear choice for me. I also planned to use a 3D model for reference, yet I have faced some issues when exporting the model as a new part to Stud.io. Therefore, I went with another option - let Studio generate a sculpture (or whatever it is called) form basic parts and use it instead. The whole frame is being designed in modules (differentiated by colour) and bodywork can be easily separated. The current version: approximately 102 cm long weighs about 8,5 kg about 7.000 parts (note that the car is now mostly hollow) I do not have any firm list of wanted features, howewer, I do not want the model be enormous just for the sake of being huge, so some functions can be expected. Steering - now via a medium linear actuator Suspension - the original has leaf springs, I have opted for an imitation with classic shock absorbers Openable doors, hood and trunk Openable individual sunroofs Removable bodywork in one piece - this vehicle will in fact be a 2-in-1 model, as I would like to be able to show the chassis separately - the 'rolling chassis' is everything you would have got from Rolls-Royce in this time period anyway Manual gearbox On the other hand, my main concerns are: Model being too heavy for wheel hubs to handle - this proved to be very true after about first meter of rolling the car along, 3 wheels just came off Bodywork looking too flat and blocky The whole model being large for the sake of being large Too bad that the light bulb does not come in tan And yes, I am aware that the Spirit of Ecstasy should not be an angel, yet the broom is so perfect for this purpose In order to compensate for such a heavy car, I constructed both axles to have a small positive camber angle (though it didn't help that much). And a comparison with my recent (still WIP) Bentley Turbo R LWB. I am pretty sure I would like to write a few more lines, even though I cannot remember, what it should be about Anyway, thanks for reading & suggestions and critique is welcome.
-
87408 recoloured for the first time, supposedly in dark tan?
- 5,445 replies
-
- rant!
- Bionicle Technic
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
There seems to be a bunch of 90° technic connectors (#6) in tan as well. I don't know whether anyone ever missed them, still could be useful, though.
- 5,445 replies
-
- rant!
- Bionicle Technic
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
SAM1626 started following MP LEGO Technic creations
-
I believe that these two parts are used in the front suspension setup of both upcoming Technic F1 cars - SF24 & RB20.
- 5,445 replies
-
- rant!
- Bionicle Technic
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Dear friends, it's been a month or so since I've updated this topic and now I feel that there's a progress worth mentioning. The most significant change seems to be a completely reworked suspension setup. I finally got rid of all those turntables that unfortunately added friction (and made the model completely undriveable) in favor of conventional wheel hubs. I also couldn't stand those tyres falling off, therefore these had to be omitted as well. I'm glad to report that no more issues have popped up since. There are a few design changes here and there, further reinforcements and such usual things. As far as the engine is concerned, I also wanted to try something different here (and I had a feeling that classic engine block would look too tiny). I know that there's definitely been another builder with same/similar idea, thus I won't claim any credit for designing it. A few more shots of the bodywork: The true pain turned out to be designing of the car's bonnet. I can't figure the right and stable geometry out for God's sake. My current iteration looks like this, it's faaaaaar from being useable, though: Inner part of the trunk is now less colourful and more tan than ever before And a shot from the bottom, so I have something to conclude with. Those four links at the rear are used for stabilizing both semi-trailing arms (not realistic but... ) Now it's time to fill in the floor gap I guess. Enjoy December, folks
-
ivan4techcreator started following MP LEGO Technic creations
-
Thank you! A huge thanks goes to the amazing community of Eurobricks for help as well That yellow machine has been in progress for already about three years and it's a sugar beet harvester (in this photo without its front digging part) You can find some further info here (although due to my laziness there are no recent updates...): I have another sugar beet machine from ROPA in progress, maybe I shouldn't create separate topics all the time.
-
I've worked on the rear part and managed to achieve a little improvement. I hoped it to be more visible but I believe that even one plate of difference in height can make a difference, even though not as significant. Other progress includes the addition of a rear bumper and an exhaust pipe, either of these two could be easily rebuilt in the future if needed. Problematic use of only one rim per wheel can be seen in picture below - I've tried many ways of fitting 11x11 technic ring into each tyre and connecting these to rims, unfortunately that didn't bring any positives. And finally - I've started rebuilding the boot in tan, as this will be my version's colour of interior. I was once more surprised by how few tan liftarms there are available on Bricklink The whole underside will be covered in inverted tiles when finished. I know that it would be better to place both a-pillars at a proper angle instead, the right time for that is definitely yet to come The weight of the car is now roughly 5 kilograms.