TTFrA

Here are my modifications to eliminate some of the (new) parts that I don't have: 5995 1x2 beam with towball replaced with a combination of 32039 connector and 2736 axle towball Use a combination of 2780, 44809, and 6628 to be able to use 32005 link instead of the 80477 3L pin with towball and 4514 perpendicular link For the other 80477, put a 5L liftarm with black pins to the 6609 9L flip-flop beam and a 6628 towball pin. I guess the material used for these solutions justify a (for me) new part. 80286 2x5 elliptical L-shape beam in the chassis and crane boom replaced by 32526 3x5 L-shape beam. On the crane, it just touches the piston of the pneumatic cylinder. Not great, but no harm. Use 3L liftarm instead of 7229 liftarm with center axle hole Use another 64782 5x11 panel and 11L liftarm instead of 2 15458 3x11 panels for the tipping bed bottom Replaced 4369 piston and 4368 crank with a 24316 3L axle with stop and 32123 bush and 60483 beam with axle hole (I made only a Unimog-typical 4-cylinder engine). This also reduces friction in the drive train. Other modifications I have made: Reduced the assembly linking to the steering rack to 2 6632 thin beams on each side and eliminated 11455 perpendicular 2x4 connector. This increased the steering angle and also reduced the play - which I find worse than the limited angle - in the steering assembly a little. Used 11214 connector and 3L liftarm inside to make simple working door locks - not sufficiently robust for 11-year-old play, but I could not find a better simple solution that holds position Added a thin liftarm on top of the 11L liftarm of the grille so that the hood slope fits better with the fairing on the side. This may be less true to the original Unimog shape, but I like it more. General observations: After some building and modifying, I appreciate Lego's design choices more. The model is great for young secondary school kids who need interesting functions paired with robust playability and not targeted at AFOLs seeking design perfection. I wonder about the use of 11214 connectors at the basis of the crane. In my build they stick out and touch the pneumatic pump when turning. This could easily be avoided by using black pins and a different build sequence. I am now looking for a rim with a larger internal offset(?) to improve the steering geometry. Also need to get some 4.5L axles with stops or other solution, my 5.5L axles just stick out too far. Overall, as many noted already, a really enjoyable build with an eye-catching color scheme and great potential as a platform for modifications and additions.

Great idea! Looks like a lot of fun for young and older kids!

@Brickthus, apologies for tuning in late, but maybe you can expand on the above? Your reference brought me to look at this set (I enjoy 45678 Spike Prime for its simplicity), and I have most of the parts from other sets except for the foil elements. For which parts in particular do you recommend this set (I find the Education line in general overpriced)? Thanks!

Such a high density of functions with 9V-powered pneumatics - wow! Love the vintage manipulators. Will you eventually make instructions?

Excellent build and already a strong contender in my view. I look forward to the instructions and might attempt a pneumatic version if I had the time.

I have bought the basic Prime Spike set 45678 when I found a bargain (~200€) and have not regretted it. I played with my sons (8 and 10 yrs at the time) with it for quite some time, but coding was not their thing. I am not much of a programmer myself, but we were able to create some fun machines (more freestyle than following instructions/lessons) - we just dreamed something up, then built it (or what was possible with the set), and innocently dabbled in Scratch-like programming to get it to work somehow. While Spike Prime is surely less "easy" than Boost, I think the sensors, motors, and technic parts provide more playability that is not easily outgrown. If you look on Rebrickable and Youtube, you will find many simple to very advanced projects for Spike Prime. So I recommend finding a used set or buying just the key components, enjoy it as long as you want to, and then resell it again. In my case, my kids outgrew LEGO altogether (I have not), but still play their instruments.

I have been thinking about this as well and I think I would go with Ballistol, a medical-grade multi-purpose oil. From their documentation, reputation, and anecdotal evidence it is almost an "edible" cure-all and should address most, if not all the concerns. Mind you, I have never used it to this purpose and am not advertising it, but I have some at home and it appears to be more suitable than water. Agricultural and forestry machinery often use organic (or bio-degradable) oils to minimize environmental hazard, but at this scale (and set material configuration), this particular more expensive oil may be a good medium. Happy tinkering!

Hi all, has anyone experience with the long-term effect of bleaching white parts with H2O2 solution? I have bought a second-hand 8480 set and intend to work on the white parts (only, not with stickers) to make it more present-able ;-) How long will the effect last? How will the treatment affect the properties of the parts? How will the treatment affect further yellowing of the parts? What is a simple set-up for the process? (my plan is to put the solution into a sealable glass container, fill it with parts and put it into the sun or under a plant lamp, shake every now and then and see what happens) I am neither a chemist nor a material scientist, but as an engineer much of what I have read on this topic falls short of giving satisfactory explanations for the impact of the treatment. Many thanks for any feedback and suggestions and happy holidays!