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evank

Eurobricks Citizen
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About evank

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    Expert Builder and DACTA
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Disney Castle

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  • Website URL
    www.brickhacks.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    New Jersey
  • Interests
    Www.brickhacks.com - Home of 8-bit Lego electronics and the Lego Chevy 454 engine

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    USA

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  1. @Mr Hobbles that is nice work. When it's finished and bug-free, would you be willing to send me one for a review on my Youtube channel "TechnicallyEvan" ... it's entirely devoted to Interface A and the surrounding ecosystem. For example I reviewed the Blocko card there.
  2. HELP! I've run out of the 1980s touch sensors: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x1167cx1&idColor=11#T=C&C=11 ... I need as many as I can get. They're very expensive on Bricklink. Can any fellow Dacta fans sell me several of these for a reasonable price? I have tons of the optical sensors, if anyone wants those. :)
  3. My educated guess, which I've said before, is that "TC-Controller" is just a language mistranslation of TC LOGO or Lego Lines. I have no reason to believe that it's some other program entirely.
  4. I don't understand electronics or programming at the level of you, Bliss, Toastie, etc., but I get by. :) I also don't use Lego Lines. I program almost exclusively in BASIC and sometimes in Lego LOGO. In Lego LOGO there is a SETPOWER command, 0-7, to let a motor or light gradually increase/decrease. There is no way to do that in BASIC. You can probably accomplish this in assembly code. But I never got beyond HELLO WORLD in that language. Ethan hangs out more on Facebook. If anyone wants to reach him, a good place to do so is my "Lego Interface A" group there. I need to update the schematic on my website. Still working on Blocky Kong and I never did solve that problem! I have the opto sensors working decently enough for collision detection between Mario and the barrels, using a little software trick. What book?
  5. Me too. I would like to test it but I don't really have time. It seems like some people here would rather just build cool electronics and software, than actually build Lego models from that technology! :) @Bliss I will have to update my website to reflect the existence of Blockly as another control alternative for Interface A. I'm also glad you called it "-ly" because the game I'm building is "Blocky" Kong. Two-plus years into that model and it's still not done, but overall I am making progress. It uses six or seven Interface A connected to a single Apple //e. Programming? As everyone here knows, I use Applesoft BASIC.
  6. I know the image because it was created by a friend at my request: https://brickhacks.com/9750.php.
  7. I have plenty of them and will happily share with anyone who is pushing the boundaries + doesn't necessarily have the cash to buy one retail.
  8. Same! This is probably true for all of EuroBricks, but even just in this little vintage Lego robotics community, we've got active participants from around the world -- sorry, flat-earthers ;) -- happily tinkering together. My door is open in New Jersey for anyone to visit and see some awesome Interface A models.
  9. I obliviously did not realize that your method requires a microcontroller. I thought it would allow Blockly to control any vintage Lego interface directly from a PC. I don't own a microcontroller and have very little experience with using them.
  10. @Bliss I'm somewhat confused. How do I attach the parallel Interface A to a modern-ish Windows or Mac computer?
  11. They even suggested similar code when using BASIC. I ignore that part, since I'm not in school :) and already know where I slotted the Lego card(s).
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