Technivor

I'm sorry, this build has been put on hold since January and its been a few months since I've not touched my Lego and I don't know when I'll get back at it.

Thanks for the replies and i think I'll choose to not make it lockable! It will make the build much easier and lighter. @pagicence I thought about that but there would be too much play in the second axle' steering.

Hi! It's been a while since I've posted here. I am currently reworking on my cat ct660 and I've decided to not do it RC. I've decided to make it a 4 axles and made the second one retractable but the problem I'm now facing is how to lock the steering on this axle. If you have any ideas don't hesitate to post something! Here are some pictures: Thanks in advance for any reply and have a great day!

Thanks! Thanks! Thank you! but the reason I put this red is because I was missing some parts in white for either the cab and the hood!

New update on the truck: I revised some of the design like widthened the front grill from 6 stud to 8 stud and the cab is now 15 instead of 14: Inside view: Limited hood opening: More pictures at my flickr page. What do you think of it? comment below!

This looks great! btw if you still want to make a rear pendular axles I've found a easy way to fix the slipping gear issue: It is made for 6 studs wide chassis but you can easily modify it for a 5 or 7 wide! Looking forward to see it finished!

Yep!

No I just print blueprint or take images from google and work with that!

Thanks! I plan to use some rigid hoses for the cockpit because there is not really a predefined part at this scale for the different cockpits! When I started I was only using pictures of the ship but because they were all made by different person there was variations in the design wich is why mine is different than the 3d model!

I didn't, I just decided to put the U-joint at the front of the frame and use a gear that didn't have much friction (8t red, new 16t or 20t) between the motors.

If you plan to use it on a heavy motorized truck I'm affraid to tell you that the 12t gear will slip! I know that because it is the design I've used for the past year and mine was reinforced from either side of the gear.

Thanks! but now I realized some mistakes I've done!

Finally found a solution for the wings:

Thanks! but the cheese slope doesn't exist in dark red. For the wings this was and still is my plan to make it with plates!

The mechanisme is basically the same as the official sets but in a larger scale, rubber band and a beam that force them to open (I think it will need 4 of the small white rubber band on each wing to compensate for the weight).

For now I just need to make the smaller wings but the main buid won't be changed.

If you want I can send you the current version of the wing fo testing! The main reason why there is so much plates is because it is more easy to remove or add some layer when some parts of the wing is too thin or to large!

Thanks! Yes I want to build it in real bricks but for now with the pieces I have I think I would just be able to make the nose (and not with the right color). I am finishing school this before the summer so I would certainly be able to start building it this fall. As for the wings, I am used to build with technic pieces so I think this would do (there is other pieces under the engines to add some rigidity) but if this is not enough It would be easy to reinforce!

Thanks! For now I don't have any idea for the canons but I have already put some bricks with studs on the side to prepare for it!

Thanks! About the back of the hull, the engines are too short (I've changed that and elongated the wings) as for the bulkiness I think I will change the brick-built triangular windows for the official set's slope windows!

I don't like how the small wings turned out:

Thanks! Thank you but the nose goes to thin for me to put wedge plates! By the way new update:

Last update of the day: What do you think of it so far?

Some progress on the underside