DarkShadow73

8421 would be my top pick, both in functionality and looks, can't go wrong with that one. 8285 is great too, but 8258 so-so as the LA's are put under a lot of stress and the crane just doesn't have the looks of the 8421. If you want another good crane and a lower price (8421 and 8285 are pretty high in price since retirement and hard to find) and in-stock status at Lego and many other retailers, the 8053 Mobile Crane gives you a lot of bang for your buck, especially if you have the 8293 Power Functions kit to go with to motorize. Even if you don't all you need is an M-motor and a battery box, and if you have some spare parts 1 white 24-tooth clutch gear (necessary).

I bought the Energizer NiMH's a lot of you suggested, so guess I'm good. Thanks for the feedback, Eric

I bought and have charged up a bunch of Ni-MH batteries for my various PF-equipped models. Once I charge them, do they quickly lose their charge if I don't install them in devices right away, or can I just bag them up and wait until I need them, or alternatively can I build a model, put them in the PF Batt box and if I don't run the model for a time, do I have to continuously take them back out and recharge. The 8258 Crane Truck comes to mind here as that batt box is a devil to get out. Obviously I'm not talking about months here, but do they quickly lose charge if not under load in a PF model? I've only ever used alkalines and I know you can hang onto them for a long, long time and unless they are under load in a device of sorts they store for a while and still have good voltage upon initial usage. I will say one thing, I installed them in my 8043 Excavator, and BAM the gear switching function literally slams back and forth now without any having to hit the remote 2 or 3 times to get it to engage each set of functions. Thanks, Eric

Thanks guys for the suggestions, funny I just went out and bought these exact Energizer batteries, man they aren't cheap, around $10 for a pack of 4 AA's or AAA's. I had to buy 2 NiMH chargers, the Energizer quick charger only held 4 batteries at a time, so I'll have to charge up the AA's first for the battery box, then the AAA's for the remotes. Suppose I could have bought 3 chargers and gotten it all done in 1 shot, but at $16.99 for each charger, I couldn't afford it right now, but on the plus side the chargers came with 2 AA's and 2 AAA's, so I only had to buy 2 packs of each size separately. Did buy them at a supermarket right up the road from me instead of going 10 miles to a Walmart or Target, I live in a large city with lots of traffic, so the amount I would have spent on gas and such would have made the trips to a larger store that most likely would have had them cheaper kind of pointless. I see the chargers have lights on them to let you know the status which is nice. Only bad thing is in my 8258 Crane Truck, that battery box is a pain in the a-- to get out and that one really needs the better batteries. So figure I'll power my excavator and crane truck with the NiMH's and my other models that don't draw so much juice with the alkalines or maybe upgrade to lithiums, I saw them at the store too. Yeah I can't see spending $70 on the Lego charger box. Eric

Good idea, but ah comes the topic of lube again. What is a good lube to use on the pins? I tried the olive oil on my old LA's and found that it didn't work so well after a while, then somebody mentioned mineral oil, so I got some of that. What is your best suggestion for lubing the pins? Thanks...Eric Out of Sight - what do you suggest for good quality NiMH batteries and I assume they come with a charger? I am totally unfamiliar with these types of batteries, heard of them, but never used them. I assume you can just pull your PF motors out, and just charge the batteries, then re-install? In other words, I don't have to buy the expensive Lego S@H battery charger, do I? Can I just pick one up somewhere? If so, what brand and where to buy? Thanks in advance...Eric

Had Duracell Alkalines in first, then tried Energizers, heard they are better. No change. Man - too bad, I dumped most of really old Technic a while ago, wish I had kept a few of the old gray pins. Guess I'll try the mod, but that means basically re-building the whole thing, which took a long time to do. I might try to find NiMH batteries and a charger.

Ironic, I just posted this as a new topic and I'm having a heck of a time getting the clutch to engage one lock to another on one lever press. Maybe I'll try these rechargeable Ni-MH batteries. Maybe this is a stupid question and it probably is, but where can you buy these types of batteries. I definitely don't want to pay Lego S@H prices for their rechargeable battery box. Radio Shack? Walmart? I live in the USA if that helps.

Good lord that's a lot of PF stuff in such a small model...

Really the 8439/8459/8464 are much more accurate in terms of size ratio to most other large Technic sets and is more realistic of an actual front-end loader, the 8265 kind of stands alone, it way oversizes most other Technic models, more in line with the 8275 Bulldozer which was oversized as well, the 8043 Track Loader is more in keeping with traditional size ratio of other large Technic models and is a heck of a lot of fun to play with as well since it is fully remote-controlled.

Another space shuttle would be rather nice. I've tried to find a decent price on a new 8480, but none to be found that are reasonable, argumentably so since it has been retired for many years.

I've wanted to do this to my 8265 as well. Where are the instructions for making the model full rc located?

Hi all- I am having an issue with my 8043 Excavator fully switching from the boom functions to the driving/rotation functions. All of my IR's are working fine, I can see the green lights blinking when I use the remote, but for some reason I can't get the clutch fully engage when I press the function change lever on the remote. Do any of you have this problem on your 8043? This is a stock-built, non-modified version, and since this problem is not a motor/LA problem like what we experienced earlier in the fall I can't figure it out. Sometimes it takes 2 presses on the remote lever to get it to fully engage the clutches into the respective gears, most times it will go into the neutral position then I have to press the lever again to fully engage in either function position. I have tried new batteries in both the remote and PF battery box, no difference. When I built the model I went slow and careful, making sure none of the gearing was too tight ot too loose and I tested every gear as I went along, so I'm at a loss to figure out what the problem might be. Any ideas or similar experience?

Very nice indeed! Like the use of differentials at all 3 axles.

I built the b-model grappler version of the 8049 Log Loader and wanted to modify it to ask as a mid-size telescopic handler/lift truck. I took the forks off of the 8295 Telehandler and did a bit of modifications to it to as well as not installing the grappling claw portion of the b-model 8049. I took a crude pic from my cell phone of it. It looks something like a very scaled down version of the 8295, but much larger than the mini-telehandler that came out last year. My fiancee has a nice digital camera and is going to take a pic of it, wanted to post it here as it really is my first real modification of a model. My question is how do I upload it to show the pic right on a post here in this forum or do I have to link to another site? I am rather proud of it since I usually suck at mods and would like to show it off. Thanks in advance, Eric

Thorsten - well I just opened a few sets, pulled them out, filled a bowl with olive oil and immersed them. I appreciate your willingness to help me out but the shipping to Germany would probably cost more than they are worth. I checked Lego Education USA, i get their catalog, but man they want $15 for 1 LA, and the 2 different end caps that go with them. Not worth it, I tried the tipping them upside down on a long axle, didn't get much drippage, too tight a tolerance where the rod comes out, so I might try the post above yours and call Lego and see what their prices are. Thanks, Eric Got some of this stuff in my garage for cars, door hinges, etc, but was hesitant to use anything like it because of the warnings others posted about them 'melting' ABS plastic.

Wow - this sounds complicated and since I don't have an ultrasonic bath or heptane, I might as well just scrap the 10 LA's I soaked in the olive oil unless I can hang them upside down with the rods extended and hope it drips out, though it seems unlikely since there are fairly small openings between the body of the cylinder and the rod. I could just buy new ones and start over with just lightly greasing them with the mineral oil I bought, but I don't see that Lego sells them piecemeal, at least that I could find, I know they used to sell small service packs of various items, but I am guessing they got out of that business. I could buy from Bricklink, I checked there, but there aren't too many to be found in the USA in an amount of 10, and man I didn't realize they were going for about $6-$7 USD, wow. Guess you live and learn.

Bought some mineral oil today. I drank the kool-aid, so to speak, and will do a bit more research in the future on oils. The olive oil did work great until it got cold. LIke you said though, it may break down or cause problems as another poster intimated too. My only hope is somehow getting all the olive oil out of the LA's I soaked it in. I see there haven't been any replies on that one as of yet, and due to the fact the LA's are almost completely sealed with exception of the top and bottom and what looks like a vent on the side of them where the oil seeped out a bit when I put a bunch in a ziploc. So, once again as this post will reach the top of the pile for a bit anyway, anybody got any ideas how to get oil out of them? I thought about fully extending the ram arm and hanging them upside down on a 12L axle in hopes it would slowly drip out, but got my doubts that will work.

To e-Ronin - Crap, I opened a bunch of new sets and just basically ran a couple day assembly line of lubing all my LA's for better performance. They all worked out great until it got real cold, but it sounds like from the latest posts from e-Ronin that I might end up with this tar-like buildup over time, even in warmer temps. I hope in the long run they all don't end up ruined, I wonder if there is some way to leach out the olive oil? Anybody got any ideas? Unfortunately I immersed them all completely in the oil overnight to make sure the cylinder completely filled with oil to make sure the oil lasted a while. To DLuders - 'Nuff said, let's get along. Been having a real hard time last couple months with personal issues on the home front with a sick parent I care for 24/7 and maybe I overreacted due to frustrations here, so let's bury it, I do enjoy reading and responding on this forum. I have found it to be highly informative as far as mods and tips.

DLuders - And neither am I trying to start a fight, are you aren't the only one who has picked at my posts. Maybe you weren't looking for a fight, but it seemed that way. I have been criticized, maybe because I am a newbie, maybe not, I don't know, about 10 times since I started in this group in September. First it was because of not receiving my replacement LA's for my 8043's. I was simply pointing out that I ordered 4, got 1, no explanation. But, it seemed everybody that 'picked on me' were the ones with high post counts. Then sometimes I give feedback or ask for feedback on certain issues and some of the replies are terse and pointed, like I'm not worthy of belonging to this group. I have wanted to join a Technic group and finally found one that I could share things with, and also have taken a lot of advice and modifications for my vast collection and only once or twice have I pointed out a flaw or not agreed with the way somebody has done something on a mod or thoughts about a particular model. Once again, and here I go doing things wrong again, I don't know how to 'Private Message' you. You have to remember I am still learning, just as I did when I accidentally posted a reply to a long string of pics, resulting in all those pics being repeated. I took that advice on how to reply the right way and didn't take offense to that post, it was simply me following somebody's advice, but some of the replies I have gotten have been less than nice. I enjoy Technic, have ever since coming out of my Dark Ages in 2000, and it is a lot of fun seeing what others do, and kindly commenting.

To DLuders: I am just curious, I have been slammed and cut down on many of my posts here on this forum. I don't knock anybody's ideas or come up with stupid responses, yes I made the mistake one time of 'accidentally' replying to a picture post, resulting in the entire set of pics being duplicated, for which I immediately apologized and TOOK their advice on how to reply without adding the entire post again, it was confusing to me at first, and also about the controversy surrounding receiving the updated LA's for the 8043 back in October. So I am wondering, are newbies just not welcome here or this is just some kind of 'high-school type clique' where some are put down? A few of you are just plain rude, sarcastic and put others down for their posts, and I have given praise on many 'high-ranking' members for their ideas. I am not new to Lego, I've been around it for 32 years since I was about 6 years old, but only been into Technic for about 8 years. Yes I don't have the space inside my small place for most of my Lego and have had it in the garage for years with no issues, including my sets with LA's since they were introduced in 2008 with no problems, nothing rusted or corroded, they just got cold out there. Had I known the olive oil would solidify I would have thought twice and tried something different, but there was a lot of controversy again over what worked with Lego ABS plastic, I sure as hell didn't want my expensive investment to get ruined.

The 2nd half sets from 2010 were actually better IMO, all of them were excellent...however the flatbed does look interesting...

Thought about that, but kind of defeats the purpose of oiling them in the first place, then we're right back to square one. I know others have suggested different lubricants for the old style LA's, but the oil seemed like a good idea and most of the lubes suggested weren't available in USA, and not sure what is safe to use of Lego ABS without ruining the plastic.

Back in the early fall when there was the explosion of problems with the 8043 Excavator's LA's I decided to try the olive oil trick that somebody posted. It really worked quite well, but I am now exposing an issue with this. I live in the cold, frozen northern state of Michigan in the USA and I don't have room in my small condo for all my models and made my one-stall garage into a Lego man-cave, and have a huge construction site diorama set up out there. Problem is the temps can fall to 30-40 degrees at night now in the garage even though I run an electric heater and also a propane gas heater when I am in there, bringing the temp up to about 55-60 for a time. I have found the olive oil has gone from a liquid form to almost a solid and has made the LA's I soaked in it nearly useless unless they are warmed up for a while before using them, and then the cylinders are still jerky and small clumps of solid olive oil can be seen on the extended rod. THe idea was great when it was warm and since most of you might not be nuts like I am use them in a garage, its about the only place I can display all my Technic and mess around with them, that being said anybody who tried this method might not have this problem, but extended exposure to cold doesn't bode well for olive oil. Unfortunately, I opened a bunch of sets and soaked all my LA's in the olive oil and all my models are experiencing this problem, even those that might not have originally had friction or lifting issues beforehand like the 8294 or 8052 which don't have as much load placed on them. On the plus side the 8295 and 8258 who were plagued with lifting issues when under load worked flawlessly until the olive oil solidified. Sucks...

Kind of agree with 'rien'...all the exposed pneumatic tubing detracts from an otherwise elegant looking model, just an opinion, not trying start a fire here. I agree that even with the new LA's it still doesn't exactly run perfectly smooth, but the looks are incredible.

I would get the 8043. Since the 8265 is now retired from Legoshop.com, it is likely to go for a lot more than the original price and with the 8043 you get all power functions and full remote control included, which makes the 8043 loader, even at a much higher cost, a lot more fun to play with and it looks good with JunkstyleGio's fairing panel mods too, of which all of the necessary fairing panels and such are available in the 8043 set already, so no extra pieces to search out.