Lasse D

Thanks for the answer. I guess it's time to begin reading RailBricks.

There have been other LEGO Space Battleship Yamato's before, even one that is larger, but this one is my new favorite because of how you have used different slope to recreate the shapes in a masterful way. I would have liked fewer studs on the sides of the hull, but apart from that, it's just brilliant. I can see it isn't everybody who knows about this show... or search engines

Puberty kills Hello Kitty and all of her companions

This is a really great car with some lovely details (ice, rails, sculpted details in the corners, etc.) I can you you are using robot arms to cover the wheels. Does this work well when it drives around the track?

1 Mohammed Saeed al-Sahaf 2 His doppelganger No one has ever been able to entertain so many across so many countries as this couple... and their doppelganger did.

Thanks, but I doubt I will ever get so much free time again - to build something that big in MLCad takes weeks There will soon be a new truck which should get a CAD-file, but that can first be after LEGO World. Regarding the wheel, I think it has to be about how the tire is attached. It is very hard to take it off for a child - I had to have my mother help me taking the wheels apart for the secondary model of 5590 back in 1991 The tires are softer on the later models, but perhaps it isn't enough?

This will probably be the set I buy most of this year due to the new rear wheels, but I can't quite see the reason why it is 25% more expensive than the old tractor when they are nearly identical in size and functionality. The looks with the low placed lights is a bit off, and using a click hinge is again an example of Technic-functions not fully done (see the telescopic handler from last year and blue truck from 2007 with handles on their lifting arms). If only Pneumatic was cheaper Edit I can tell you why. The old Model Team wheels did not pass the internal JK-test, which is used to keep the brick up to a certain standard, which I currently don't know more about, but this is the reason. The old Model Team wheels will never be seen in LEGO models again. The ones you see on new model (Such as certain SW sets) are different, missing the ring to hold tires and having a different pattern on the front.

And now I finally got the time to comment on this great fire truck. It is just incredible for its scale, and I especially like the way you have made the ladder and used old-style wheels that fit so well. First ships, then trains and now trucks? You seem to master quite a lot of techniques. Keep it up Cap'n

Being at the said event (Aros, Denmark), I recognize some of the points, namely the time it took for the sets to arrive, but we had been informed about that already Nov. 18. This was delayed because many AFOLs were late at handing in their wishes. I did not have any expenses, but have had at other events, and it does take a lot of time for refunds to get through large companies like LEGO. It sounds like there has been some confusion about whom should talk to whom in your case. It was one of the volunteers who was the AFOL contact in Denmark (a former Ambassador). This contact was responsible for all the communication back and forth between us and the event manager. This included info, forms, feedback, status updates and so on. It almost sounds as if this was the role that your friend had. I hope this will get sorted out for you, but I would have liked that you waited until you what exactly had happened so that us outsiders wouldn't be left guessing here.

And Linux has clones like KolourPaint (KDE) that work well if you are used to MS Paint I would like to add a tip for MS Paint: Use Keyboard Shortcuts. Ctrl+W: Stretch (gives you the stretch menu with the %-inputs) Ctrl+E: Attributes (gives you the menu where you can input the size) Ctrl+R: Mirror (gives you the menu where you can mirror/rotate the picture) Ctrl+C: Copy (If you have a selection marked, this will be copied to the system clipboard) Ctrl+V: Paste (Insert the picture from the clipboard) Ctrl+Z: Undo Ctrl+S To save Alt+F4 Close MSPaint To resize for a specific size is not easy in MSPaint, but I'm using it all the time because my own program isn't finished yet. Here is a typical scenario where I want to resize a couple of pictures: 1: Select the pictures You want to resize in Explorer (where you view files). 2: Right click or press the special popup-menu button to show the popup menu (This button is often located near right Ctrl on your keyboard) 3: Choose "Edit" (Press E) MSPaint will start for each picture 4: Ctrl+W, 40, Tab, 40, Enter (I often have to resize to 40% of the original size for a crop in the wanted size to look good) 5: Use the Mark-function (dashed rectangle) tool to find a good crop 6: Ctrl+Z (picture is often not the right size) 7: Ctrl+W, 38, Tab, 38, Enter (Retry with a different size) 8: Use the Mark-function tool to find a good crop and press Ctrl+C, Ctrl+V to move this to the top-left of the picture. 9: Ctrl+E, 800, Tab, 600, Enter (Resize, in this case to 800 x 600) 10: Ctrl+S, Alt+F4 (Save and exit, now repeat with the next picture) This is by far the fastest way to use MSPaint (XP version and earlier) once you get used to keyboard shortcuts.

I check out Classic-Town regularly, and use it more than forums to find new MOCs. Once there is a creation that I would like to comment on, and actually have something constructive to say or ask (not very often), I go to the forum where it was posted instead of commenting on the Blog because there's a higher probability that the creator listens there. Don't get sad about the few comments - you have a larger audience than you might know. If only there was a "general discussion" thread on Classic-Town, or something similar where you might give suggestions to stuff to blog, talk about the directions etc., but I guess a similar thread on EB will do just as well.

If you want to shorten it further, get the right firing order and added realism, You could try to make the valves and camshafts move instead of the cylinders. Have a crankshaft poke some pins through the cylinder head and it should be possible to get a really nice result. This is the approach I'm beginning to take with my engines because it saves space and and looks quite different from the conventional LEGO Technic engine. It might take a lot of work to get it right, but it should be possible.

Here it will differ considerably from the one I will use. It will also have a 32L cross axle, but with only a single cog that moves along and engages different mechanism (at most 10). Another 32L axle will move a sled with the cog... I think it's easier to explain by showing it once finished With the scale I simply meant about 14 studs wide instead of the more conventional 1:13 that many truck builders go for (it gives great realism, but the models are often too heavy for a motor to drive) With the cab of a typical truck (Scania R-series) being 243cm wide, and a brick width of 0.8cm, we get the following scales: 12 wide: 243/(12*0.8) => 1:25 14 wide: 243/(14*0.8) => 1:22 - almost Miniland size! OK. So the lever can stop and lock before the position shown in this picture? Now I think I get it, soon...

I'm glad to see others experimenting with Technic inside Model Team in this scale. This reminds me about how I'm going to make the mechanics for the car wash in my next truck. LEGO had something similar in the old red super car with its gearbox. It is a really nice crane you have. Do you have a video of it as well? Now that is what I'm talking about: a lot of Technic compressed into a (relatively) small space. I can't quite see how the fifth wheel locks, but I used 8872 (forklift transporter) as inspiration for my previous coupling system, and it worked quite well. If only there were more people building trucks in this scale

It does. Pumps and actuators can't take it (the metal gets stained), which is why I have kept the pumps away from the water. I had a switch in the first prototypes, but water can't get through fast enough. The switch in the final version is made by bending the tubes to block the cannons. I have not experimented enough with the switched for the seals to break (they are quite expensive). The first version had 8... and didn't work

After half a year of researching, planning, building and rebuilding, I can now finally present my latest Model Team creation: 1977 Oshkosh P15 Here's a video of it in action. It is my first scale Model Team creation (1:30) of a real vehicle. I have aimed for a high level of detail, while still maintaining the functionality. Here are some more clear samples of the pictures I used in the video Functions Apart from smallest moving parts, such as doors all functions are motorized using Power Functions remote control. Steering is with dual tooth racks to minimize the width An NXT motor was the best for the drive in this model. It allows for a differential on each axle while only using 3 additional cogs The motor for the pumps is an RC motor which is switched on using a 9V switch to avoid going through a PF receiver (to maximize the power and run without having to hold down a button on the remote) The 9V switch is beneath the receivers To the left of the 9V switch there is a mechanical switch for the pneumatic hose. With this you can choose the active cannon. (seen more clearly in the video) I use a bottle to hold the water. All other parts are from LEGO, and if you insist on using only LEGO parts, you can use a small air tank instead, as I did with the Rosenbauer ARFF It is all nicely packed inside The cannons turn together with the steering and their height is controlled using flexible tubes Stats Just for fun. Here is a comparison with the real model. The last numbers in the rows are what you get if you multiply the numbers from the LEGO model up to the real size. stat: LEGO, real, scaled length: 48cm, 14,28m, 14,40m width: 10,4cm, 3,10m, 3,15m Weight (full): 2,446kg, 59410kg, 66042kg Water: 0.25L, 24180L, 6750L HP: 2.03W, 884HP, 74HP (NXT motor power found here) Brickshelf gallery with more pictures.

Thank you for the review. Seeing how you compare the models, and how many you seem to have, will it be possible to make you compare it to the secondary model of 8858 Rebel Wrecker? It is quite similar, but sports a differential as well.

LEGO seems to have solved the problem with the cables. (See this topic) They should be of the length used in the Vestas set, so this raffle will now contain all the rare parts. Good luck with the raffle

There is no obvious part in the LEGO library for this that I know of. The Half Sphere Canopy comes close, but is way too deep for the proportions to hold (unless you hide most of it) You might also get a good result using this, but I recommend taking a look at how Ralph S has handled the problems of canopies for his many air crafts. His Brickshelf gallery is here.

Thanks for the heads up. A shame I just spend $400 on the Power Functions accessory sets for lights , but these sets have other useful pieces as well - I'm sure... I see they will ship by Jan. 24. If you call in for the elements in Europe, you might be able to get them here at the same time. I did this last year and got some adapter cables before they were on the site (It was a mistake. They should have been up... and for a higher price )

I am supposed to get an answer today about whether I may bring it to LEGO World. If not, I will bring it to Klodsfest (location and time to be announced) With a weight almost twice of this truck, it will not be driven by PF, but the functions within it will. Glow In The Dark is a LEGO color. All those small pieces that appear white (except those in the logos) are actually GITD, which gives a great effect when you turn off the lights. It is best seen in this picture: The motor in the middle goes straight through the center of the turntable and powers the cog on the edge, while the other motor turns the turntable. Edit: I'm in. See you at LEGO World Copenhagen 2009!

We seem to be a lot. It sounds like a great place to show our community Castle project. Could we make this possible?

True. They might even replace the graphics with a huge "Octan" sticker covering multiple valuable pieces Actually. I did cheat and use the normal PF-remote for most of the video - it is easier to handle when you use the other hand to hold a camera. You have spiked my curiosity. A Scuderia Ferrari hauler, perhaps? Looking forward to that trailer of yours. And topping this one? I have a plan to introduce my service station to Power Functions. It will be a challenge to get it done before February because repeating testing and rebuilding takes a lot of time, but I will give it a try.

There are two huge reasons for LEGO never to release anything like this for less than $300: It would cost way more than $300 (see previous posts), and it is too small to carry such a price tag. Remember it's only about twice as big as mission 6: I don't know about bringing Model Team back. I'm personally only interested in the classic trucks like 5580, 5590 and 5591, whereas Model Team covers quite a lot of model (see Button's poll)

I tried with a 60 Watt light bulb and it didn't work. My video camera is even worse because it doesn't allow a slower shutter speed. It can't even see the LEDs in the dark! I have really tried to take a picture of it. I was supposed to begin the video with only those bricks lighting up, followed by casting full light onto the truck. Now that would have been a great opening!