kyphur

UPDATE: Designs for the 2 engines are complete! This is the Flicker Set where I'll be posting Renders (and later images of real brick versions) of the Final Designs. Here are three-quarters views of the two Engines: Note that both units are designed for PF powering 2 PF Train Motors! See these Cutaways for the details: Both units are designed for use with the LiPo Battery so the roofs aren't removable. Also I decided to leave the Doors 1 x 3 x 2 in Old Gray for the time being as I see TLG has a new version of this and I'm hoping to see it in Blue-Gray soon. The roof contains a concealed Power button and a small removable section that allows easy removal of the button for access to charge the LiPo Battery. You'll notice I've opted to use Train Wheels for the roof vents after seeing Tearloch do this on his BNSF. Of course I'll remove the o-rings on the physical models. If you use Black Buffer Beams & Motor Decorative Sides you can save a lot of money on parts. I've been able to order all of the parts for both units at a cost of about $130. I need to clean-up the MLCad files before I can render instructions.

I shortened my 3677 Loco by 6 studs. I had to buy a shorter Train Base plate (24 long) but everything else was from the box. You can see the result here.

The City that will eventually go at one end of my lay out (covering an area of 60 x 150 inches, basically 90 32x32 stud baseplates) will probably be mostly MOCs based on LEGO's Modular Building System. I might buy a couple of the official ones (like Fire Brigade & Town Hall) but I think mostly it will be MOCs to fit the design and scale of my layout.

Here's some more info about your exact prototype and it's class in general. Reminds me a lot of the US EMD-F7 class. For some build ideas you might want to look at the old Lego Set #10020-1 (Santa Fe Super Chief) for build ideas. I think you've got a good start but the roof line seems too sharp, needs curved edges.

To me is doesn't matter if others think our trains are "Real" Model Trains. While I'm still very new to LEGO Trains and my MOC/MOD skills are basic I do enjoy having to work within the limitations of the medium. That's one of the reasons I've decided to fully cover the base of my layout with baseplates, it makes me work within those limits. I would be a lot easier to lay track a plain surface instead of ballast it to baseplates. The scenery would be a ton cheaper if I didn't plan to make it 100% LEGO.

Is anyone interested if I share this tool I've written to support my own projects? Basically it takes MLCad generated Parts List in a text file and generates the proper XML to upload to a BrickLink Wanted List. Current Features: * - Supports mpd files: - - - Using multiple copies of a sub-model it adds the proper number of parts needed. - - - Combines parts from all models in the file before generating the XML. - - - If Color is specified for sub-model then it overrides the user set Main Color. * - Select between New or Old Grays * - User defines "Main Color" * - User can set the Parts List ID * - Automatically overrides some Part Numbers (for example "4093b" Train Base 6 x 28 to "4093a") * - Ignores any parts that are "Edge_Color", I use this to include PF Connectors in the model but not the parts list. * - Confirms with BrickLink that the part exists in the desired color. Current Limitations (working on overcoming): * - Sub-model file names can't have spaces * - Colors conversion chart isn't complete * - Parts conversion chart isn't complete It's a Windows App, no plans to make Apple or Lunix version. Feedback, suggestion etc are appreciated.

A lot of people missed out on the Super Chief for many different reasons, I simply wasn't into trains while it was available. Luckily for me I was selling of a substantial LEGO Star Wars collection last year which afforded me the luxury of purchasing The Chief and all five Cars at their currently inflated prices. I have no idea how much the complete set will cost but I can tell you that I've priced out the B-Unit on bricklink and without going to much effort to compare sellers looking for the best deal on parts it looks like the 300+ parts will run about $60 for that set. Considering I spent over $300 on the Old Gray version I'd say that's a substantial savings.

I have rebuilt my Old Gray EMD-F7B unit, elongated it by 2 studs and made the design changes I wanted (fixed roof, hidden power button etc). I found a few flaws in the MLCad Design which have been corrected, I just need a few parts (waiting for that last BrickLink order) to close it up and call the build finished and post the pics. Tonight I'll transfer the build changes over to the New Gray model and tweak the file for instructions. I'm still reworking the A-Unit (Locomotive) but hope to have it finished this week so I can prep the MLCad Model for instructions next weekend. I think I might be able to squeeze a PF Pole Reverser and second PF Train Motor into the A-Unit's design for someone who doesn't want a B-Unit but does want more pulling power. Once I have generated instructions for both Engines I'll post them here.

I would have to say that I'd be 10020-1 Santa Fe Super Chief. Not that I relate directly to that exact "Named Train" but more the hardware, EMD-F7 Locomotive. Why? I have a very classic Mid-Western American look, nothing spectacular but still special in my own way. Versatile, surely I'm not a one trick pony. Just like the EMD-F7 has been tasked with not only hauling passengers they have also taken on freight. Likewise in my career I've worked both sides of IT, while I'm currently a Software Developer I spent 5 years of my career as a Network Administrator and Hardware Specialist. Aging, while the END-F7 model has a couple of decades on me I have passed 40 recently and am still going strong.

Nice start... You know that siding on the back side is way too close to your main line, right? With 2 curves you can fix that: Put a curve between your two switches, that will move the long siding to a better angle inside the main line. A second curve on the siding of the second switch should get the "crane" siding back in line also.

This is the exact reason I've invested a few hundred dollars in LiPo Battery Boxes. In converting my 9v Locomotives to PF I prefer to be able to enclose the battery box and have only a small section of removable roof to access the charging port. I also like to have a disguised power button on the roof. Even the newer trains are better with the LiPo and a disguised power button. I hated taking the Maersk Loco apart to change the batteries.

Honestly this is one reason why I prefer MLCad with LDraw. Most of the train parts are there and generating instructions from my virtual models is simple with a few tools. Have you looked into MLCad/LDraw? It does take a little more effort upfront to learn the system since it doesn't "snap" bricks into legal connections for you but this also allows you to build easily with "illegal connections" that actually work in real life. Additionally the MPD format allows you to build in easily manageable components and then use the components as sub-models in the main model. For example I only build the bogies once and can use the sub-model twice in the main model.

After creating your combined image, upload it to flickr, brickshelf or some other hosting service that allows deep (direct) linking. Then click on your username in the upper right of the webpage here an dclick on my setting in the dropdown. Now click on "Profile" in the bar under "Your Options". Now click on "Change Signature" a little further down the page. Next use the IMG tags to add a direct/deep link to the hosted image. This example is for mine: [img=http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6067/6211460330_f84b1dfd94.jpg] Finally "Save Changes"

Well, the track is designed to attach to baseplates so you could either: 1. Cover the whole MDF with baseplates OR 2. Stratigically attach a few Baseplates (like corners etc) But if you don't want to use baseplates then you could probably get a way with using small screws in the pinholes used to connect the tracks in packs of four. The screws would have to be thin to not damage the track and long to get deep enough into the MDF to be secure.

This is in my opinion one of the best solutions thus far... My only issue is the required modification to the switches. Is there a motor option that generates enough torque to move the switch unmotified and still stall out before causing damage to the switch?

I use normal but soft works ok. I think hard are too stiff.

Here's the solution I settled on: It's the lower right one but IRL I was able to reduce the length of each side by 16 studs!

Sure, I don't expect to have the first model ready for about a month though. It will be the Locomotive (A Unit). When it's ready to go there will also be building instructions. Yep, they would work great if I wasn't wanting to be able to comfortably fit all of the Power Functions bits inside the A & B Units. I see TLG has updated the 2 x 3 doors! I have several in Old Gray to use for the time being so I just might leave them in place and hope they are released in New Light Gray soon.

After many more hours of fiddling here's my progress report: I have 15 tables covered with the hardboard and the perimeter track (my main loop) laid with basic ballasting. When I add the 2 additional tables for the City I will extend the perimeter track around them. The Wye and Switching Yard track is all installed but mostly not ballasted yet. It's funny how you spend a couple of months buying up parts but once you start building the layout you run out so quickly! I need more baseplates, track and 2 by plates (for ballasting) for starters but I still have a little of each. There are a few more pics here: Flicker Set

Nice... It's good to see some classic American Diesels getting love. Could you share the link to the alternate 6 wide snub nose design you found?

Here you see 4 curves: Note that the baseplates represent the table surface, this loop of track is running 4 studs in from the edge. This will be an inside corner (meaning that there will be train table on the outside of the curve but inside the curve will be empty beyond the baseplate). All except the top right one are symmetrical. The top two are really tight to the corner which makes me a bit nervous, I'd prefer to maintain a 4 stud distance between the sleepers & the edge of the table. The bottom two are both symmetrical and maintain an acceptable distance from the edge. I'm just wondering if the bottom right curve is a tad too tight? FWIW, this curve will be used on either end of my inclines used to elevate the main loop over my tunnel and bridge so the trains will be exiting this curve about 32 studs before starting up the incline and entering it 32 studs after leaving the down side of the incline. Input from my fellow Train Drivers (Engineers) would be appreciated. I'll be trying them IRL this weekend (unless something else more urget requires my time & attention)...

I would be ecstatic if you made reproductions of all of the Santa Fe Set Stickers (10020, 10022 & 10025) and a few extras like the Santa Fe Indian Head Logo (both Left & Right) in the proper size to fit on a 1 x 12 brick.

My EMD F7 (New Gray) Project This is my project to update TLG's EMD F7 Locomotive. First I will create New Gray Versions of the Engines (Power Units). The A Unit will be designed to use a single PF Train Motor. The B Unit will be designed to use two PF Train Motors. My personal copy will use light gray for the bogies & buffers but you can make them all black to save money. After the Engines are finished I will move on the the 5 official Santa Fe Cars. Once the Official Cars Sets are updated I will create a Pleasure Dome Car to accompany the set. Note that I''m not trying to reinvent this classic train, just update it. There will be some tweaks & changes but don't expect anything mind-blowing. When I'm done I'll provide BrickLink XML Files for Wanted List Uploading . You'll get one file for each model (a total of 8) and I'll also provide a single file with all of the parts needed to build the complete set (one of each model). BTW, I do realize I need to find a suitable replacement for the "Doors, 1 x 3 x 2 Left & Right".

BTW, the limit for a single PF Train Motor with the o-ring upgrade seems to be: Maersk Loco, 5 Maersk Container Cars & 9 Maersk Containers.

Here is a link to the video of my Super Chief with 2 Engines (1 A and 1 B Unit) and 6 cars (the 5 official cars and my Modded version of James Mathis' Pleasure Dome) going up one side over the bridge and down the other side. My B-unit has 2 PF Train Motors and the o-rings are upgraded. The incline is 2 plates for each section of track (16 studs length).